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Author Topic: Tapering  (Read 383 times)

Offline Billy

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Tapering
« on: May 31, 2009, 01:23:00 PM »
I recently started playing with wooden shafts.

 What I am wondering about is tapered shafts. Most I have seen have a 10" taper.

 I shoot a longbow that has no shelf. It has an add on and a notch in the window. It shoots @48 lbs. at my 25.5" draw.

 I am shooting parallel 27",5/16,POC 40-45, with 200 grain Ace(hex,brass and Express).

 Don't have any problems with them. Except that, the 200 grainers are made for the bigger shafts. Just Curious what else can be done with wood.

 1) If. I was going to try some 11/32 or 23/64 tapered shafts; would I need to change spine groups.

 2) Does anyone have or know of a jig to give a longer taper; say 16-20"?

 3) Would there be any pros or cons to a longer taper?

Okay, have at me. And, Thanx for any thoughts.
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Offline Orion

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Re: Tapering
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2009, 01:31:00 PM »
Going to a larger diameter shaft has the same effect as building the arrow shelf out more yet, necessitating an even weaker spine, regardless of whether the shafts are tapered.

Don't know of any jigs to make a 16-20 inch taper, but don't know why you would want to. Given the weight bow you're shooting and length arrow, the arrow is already fairly light.  Tapering more of its length would just decrease the weight even more.

There have been some build alongs on this site re making one's own taper jig.  

According to Ed Ashby's research, an arrow shaft smaller than the broadhead ferrule aids penetration so you have that working for you with your set up, plus the heavy broadhead increases your FOC.

Offline George D. Stout

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Re: Tapering
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2009, 01:46:00 PM »
Tapering can enhance arrow flight on selfbows with no sight windows.  You rarely have to go much lighter in spine, but the arrow corrects more quickly from paradox with a taper.  It may also allow you go use the 11/32 arrows that have been giving you problems on the selfbow.

Billy, I have a friend who can taper half the shaft with an outfit he made. He would probably taper some for you very reasonably.  You may be able to go to a lighter head using the tapered arrow, or you may opt to stay with a heavier head as long as flight is good.  It seems that "Brushpopper" is pleased with the arrows you are using now.

Offline Billy

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Re: Tapering
« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2009, 01:48:00 PM »
Okay, but if I went up a spine group and then tapered for shelf clearance; would that not be a smaller shaft following a heavier front?

If, I got the 23/64, 45-50 and taper them 18" to 5/16; would I get a lower spine(40-45) and heavier front end with the longer taper?
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Offline stump man

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Re: Tapering
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2009, 02:28:00 PM »
if you go longer than 9-10" you will start losing spine dramatically.  I did some for a friend a while back.  70-75 lb POC, 23/64" to 5/16" with 16" taper.  They ended up 40-50 lb spine
stump

Offline Billy

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Re: Tapering
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2009, 03:48:00 PM »
George you are right, Brushpopper and I are having a blast. Thanks!
Last weekend I shot a 3D course; Perry County Archers, with her and we had a great time. I think Hawksnest enjoyed tormenting me about my shooting!!

I am just wondering what else I can play with in shafting, to learn some more.

Yikes, stump man! I wasn't expecting that much drop.

I am going to keep trying different woods and the tapering is one that I'll keep checking into, from time to time. A 14" taper would be interesting...11/32 to 5/16???
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