Arrow penetration.... the real secret.

[Charlie Lamb]

I wanted to try the hard steel of a replaceable blade broadhead so I dug out an old Thunderhead 150 two blade.
 

It still had bits of debris from a coyote I sent it through some 25 years ago. A pass through shot, it too showed signs of getting up close and personal with the Wyoming landscape.

I clamped a blade in the broadhead jig and gave it 5 light passes on the coarse side of the diamond hone and 5 even lighter passes on the fine side. I think it is sharper than it was when new.

One thing I learned a long time ago, is when sharpening don't bear down on the head and jig. This can cause uneven pressure and slight changes of angle which actually rounds the edge... you don't want that happening.

[Charlie Lamb]

I jigged up the Journeyman, Grizzly and STOS and all three were a piece of cake. The curved edge of the Journeyman took the most "technique" but was really very easy to sharpen.

The Grizzly El Grande took a little technique as well due to it's extra long length. I treated it just like I mentioned I would previously and got a super sharp edge.

In fairness I must admit that it was an old head that had long ago had it's grind angle changed so I don't know how long it might take to change a factory grind if that's what a fella thinks he has to do.

The STOS went even easier than my Magnus I's. Something about the long narrow profile makes the transition between single layer and triple layer less of a problem.

[Charlie Lamb]

I believe it's a good idea to learn how to use a file in the field and I don't hesitate to use one if need be.... it's an old guys idea of a facet of the bowhunters craft.

There are a lot of easy and handy ways to field sharpen broadheads during the hunt.

I do believe, however, that putting on a uniform razor edge at home makes field touch up simpler and more effective whatever method you use.

This system brings a broadhead or knife to a razor like edge with minimal stock removal and that increases the longevity of those tools.
No more mishapen out of balance broadheads or knives that look like they were rubbed on a field rock.

I'm about done, so if you have questions ask away. If I don't know the answer, I'll just call Ron.
 
 

[Jake]

Good stuff Charlie.  The only thing I will add is that when you start with a Grizzley New out of the pack it is a lot easier and faster to use a file to get a working angle on the blade.  Then go to the jig to get it razor sharp.  This also saves on the life of your stones.  Also using a marker will help you see where the metal is coming off and how much.  Thank you very much for this thread.  I think I'll go sharpen something.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by Charlie Lamb:
... Don't ever sharpen your wife's kitchen knives. She won't appreciate it and she WILL cut herself... within seconds of the time you finish....

 

absolutely true.  used my kme to sharpen a few serrated cutco knives for the wife, told her 3 times they were razor sharp, and she promptly drove one deep into her finger.  women,  go figure.

btw, for those first serrated knives that i kme sharpened, i only worked the blade itself, not the serrations.  i've since acquired a dmt pointy tapered diamond rod that works great on serrated blade.

[Missouri CK]

Lamb,

Question about the Grizzly...just saying that word makes me cringe at the thought of all the time I spent last year changing the angle of those broadheads and trying to get them sharp....

If I could go back in time and try to start over again could the KME be used with a file to change that angle so that it is a precise grind?  The roller option on the clamp seems like it would just glide along the table edge while your file is clamped down.  

Chris

[dragon rider]

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Charlie Lamb:
... Don't ever sharpen your wife's kitchen knives. She won't appreciate it and she WILL cut herself... within seconds of the time you finish....

I respectfully disagree.  I've seen a lot more kitchen cuts from dull knives being forced to cut something than from sharp ones.  Now I'll admit that my wife is very particular about her knives, but she's dowright appreciative when I get them really sharp.

[NoCams]

Thanks Charlie for the info / help on the Simmons head.

I think that you could only use the KME knife sharpening version for Simmons, the broadhead version would not work ??? You would have no way to take into account the concave edge.

How bout it Ron..... Develop a round course diamond tool for your wonderful system to set the angle and remove metal when needed and then a round ceramic or fine diamond for finishing ? I know Simmons are no longer made, but there are tons of them out there that need KME sharp edges ! Also the round tools would work on any CONVEX heads like Charlie was working on, the Journeyman for example.

nocams  

[IronCreekArcher]

For the KME are the regular stones good or are the diamonds better?

[KSdan]

Can't answer for everyone. . . but I got the regular stones and just ONE coarse diamond stone. The coarse diamond really takes off the metal of the many edges I screwed up before this.  Once the edge is right, the regular stones do the scarey sharp thing.

[nightowl1]

I just told my wife about this perfect birthday present but now i'm thinking maybe aniversary would save me 2 months haha

[Benny Nganabbarru]

KME sharpeners are magic, eh!

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by IronCreekArcher:
For the KME are the regular stones good or are the diamonds better?

my kme uses all diamond hones, and i prefer those simply because they cut really fast and only require a bit of water for lube, and clean up with water and a bit of soap.  

without a doubt, after messing around with too many other knife/broadhead sharpening 'systems', the kme is absolute better than them all.  

for the most part, all ya need is the kme knife sharpener - it'll do yer broadheads just as easily as it does yer knives.

what the arrow is to the bow, the kme is to the broadhead.  like charlie sez, penetration is all about sharp broadheads - most any trad broadhead - just pick one out and do the proper thing: get that sucker razor shaving sharp!

[Charlie Lamb]

IronCreek... KSdan has a good approach to your question. Other than that, it's pretty much personal choice.

You can go to a much finer grit with the regular stones...hard Arkansas.

DragonRider... of course I was just being cute with my statement about wives and knives. I don't mean to categorize women at all. Lots of women who appreciate finely honed kitchen knives, hunting knives and broadheads.
Of course my statement DOES support my own experience.
   

Nightowl1...Just tell her it's not an expense, but an investment. This is a lifetime tool.

Nocams... the knife sharpener does work as in my test and the broadhead sharpener wouldn't with "flat stones"... you'd end up ruining the stone.

Chris... I'll check and see if the broadhead sharpener could be used with a file. I have my doubts but it might.

[Charlie Lamb]

Don't know why I haven't put a link up to Ron's website...duh!!
   

Here it is...   KME

[NoCams]

Charlie,
They say your brain works the best and is the most creative in the morning..... Especially after a cup or twelve of joe, haha !

I went to the link you posted like I should have two days ago and really started looking at the system for holding the stones. It would be easy for Ron to offer a extra wooden block with a hole drilled lengthwise to hold a ceramic rod or a chainsaw file. Hard to explain here without being able to draw, but drill the hole beginning in the front of the wooden block,( the end that faces away from you as you are sharpening ). Drill back toward the rear end of the block, but do not drill all the way thru, leave a blind hole. This will serve to hold the rods in place as you push the block away from you in the sharpening process. close the open, front end of the hole with a piece of tape, no force needed to simply hold the rod in the hole, all the pressure is towards the rear of the block which has the blind hole for support. You will need to cut away all the wood between the front and rear of the wooden block to expose the, "captured rod " , leaving an " ear " on each end that holds and supports the rod. If the hole is the correct size it will allow a chainsaw file to rotate and use the entire surface of the file. As the file is pushed into the blade it will naturally rotate.

If you are not a woodworker a simpler method would be to buy two spring clips, ( like the ones that hold arrows in a arrow rack ), and screw them to a wooden block. You would need a hard stop on the rear of the wooden block extending past the rod to give the rod something to push against as you push the rod across the blade. A simple piece of wood or metal extended down about 1/2" would work. Just load the file or ceramic rod of your choice into the clips making sure the rear of the file or rod was against the rear stop for support and away you go.

If Ron wanted to offer this on a production basis it would be very simple to have a plastic rod holder moulded which would make it much more cost effective I would think ? If not then I think I will be buying the diamond knife sharpening kit and make me a wooden rod holder myself for now. This should solve the problem of the big ole concave edge on them Treesharks. JMHO

nocams  

[Don Stokes]

Dull knives are much more dangerous than sharp ones, even for the women-folk.

I'm in full agreement that a truly sharp broadhead is crucial to penetration, but if the arrow is wobbling it won't penetrate well, no matter how sharp the point. At least it'll do maximum damage to what it hits. All the effort to achieve perfect tuning is wasted if the head is dull.

Good stuff, Charlie.

[Doc Nock]

Having talked some with Ron myself, I know he wants to keep stone quality top drawer and USA made. Hasn't been that easy... today's world things get sloppy at times...  :(

I know he's always on the look out for some round stones to use for serrated and such.

HIs equipment and guidance took me from the 12-Step meetings saying, "Hi, I'm Doc Nock and I'm sharpening impaired" to "look at what I can cut now!"  

[Terry Green]

I just used mine for the 1st time last night....found it last week after someone put it up in a safe place for me after Christmas....gotta love her though.

Charlie's thread prompted me to try my hand at it.

I did a Zephyr Sasquatch last night....and the KME is all its cracked up to be.

Like Charlie said....getting them this sharp from the get go at the house will make touch up in the field after a shot a cinch.

[Romans3]

Will the knife system sharpen ACE broadheads or are they too small?