Author Topic: Magnus 1 Four Blade (Read 1450 times)

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #20 on:** June 27, 2009, 12:30:00 PM »

Bear... I pushed an arrow of that same weight and speed in one side and out the other of a bull elk. I suspect it will work on deer as well.
:D

Mike Burch · « **Reply #21 on:** June 27, 2009, 10:52:00 PM »

I'm thinking of trying this BH out also...actually this one and the 160 grain Magnus I 2 blade.

Is there a considerable difference in damage between the 4 blade and the 1 1/2" cut 2 blade Magnus I??

Mike

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #22 on:** June 27, 2009, 11:09:00 PM »

Though I prefer shooting the Magnus I with the bleeder in place, I won't hesitate to use it as a two blade and often do.

Yes there is a difference in the amount of cut since the main blade is 1 1/2" and the bleeder is 1 1/4". That's a substantial amount of extra cut.

Mike Burch · « **Reply #23 on:** June 27, 2009, 11:12:00 PM »

Thanks! I didn't realize the bleeders were so wide. Looks to be a MEAN BH!

Mike

tradtusker · « **Reply #24 on:** June 28, 2009, 05:41:00 PM »

i shot the magnus 1s for a while now RobTattoo put me onto them
recently been playing with the Magnus 1 4 blades really really like them!!

tomyhawk · « **Reply #25 on:** June 30, 2009, 05:59:00 AM »

Charlie
Thanks I never new that. I used zwickeys for years and have tried almost everything in my 30 plus years of bowhunting.
Remember the cookie cutters serpentines deadheads
etc..
But now I use the magnus something to be said for a head that is good enough to be bought only once.
Thanks for the answer.

James Wrenn · « **Reply #26 on:** June 30, 2009, 06:42:00 AM »

Well the ones I ordered came yesterday.They look like they will do the job just fine.I hope to mount a couple and see how they shoot today.

chris_qc · « **Reply #27 on:** June 30, 2009, 01:07:00 PM »

Charlie,

Any recommendations as to how to slot the taper ?

Thanks,

Chris

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #28 on:** June 30, 2009, 02:56:00 PM »

Chris,

For wood shafts you can use a dremel with cut off blade, coping saw, hacksaw or bandsaw. Exacto makes a nice little hobby saw that works well also.

For aluminum or steel, the Dremel cutoff blade is what I use. Quick and accurate. Hacksaw works as does a metal cutting blade in a band saw.

I usually dry mount the head in the position I want it and then using a shop knife I score through the slot on the ferrule to mark the adapter.
A pencil would work on a wood shaft.

When I mount them I like to use hotmelt cement. Heat the head and twist it around on the taper to evenly spread the glue.

I keep a bleeder handy and push it through when I have it lined up to make sure. When the head is cool I heat the bleeder slightly and pull it out to clear the slot.

Bear · « **Reply #29 on:** June 30, 2009, 04:30:00 PM »

I just used a shorter taper on cedars. Problem solved, right? If you buy the aluminum screw-in adapters for these heads they just have a shorter taper. I just made my wood taper the same. I realize that a "too-short" taper will compromise the joint integrity, causing the head to potentially cock to one side upon impact. But that has as much to do with proper arrow flight/tuning as anything. To me it seems like enough taper for a solid joint.

DW · « **Reply #30 on:** June 30, 2009, 10:14:00 PM »

Charlie got me interested in the Mag 1's a year or so ago After my Simmons Interceptors got hard to find....My buddy Conan started shooting them also...We've killed 8 whitetails and nine hogs with Mag 1's with the bleeders..Needless to say we love them and THANK YOU Charlie!!!

DW · « **Reply #31 on:** June 30, 2009, 10:15:00 PM »

wv lungbuster · « **Reply #32 on:** June 30, 2009, 10:41:00 PM »

Wow know I see why they call them flying hatchets Magnus 1 will be in my quiver this fall.

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #33 on:** June 30, 2009, 11:46:00 PM »

Yeah Don, the only bad part is if a guy gets queezy at the sight of blood.

Terry Green · « **Reply #34 on:** July 01, 2009, 12:24:00 AM »

Thanks Charlie for providing info on real experiences in killing animals with the head in question. It sure is refreshing with all the speculating running rampant by those that don't have any experience.

Bear · « **Reply #35 on:** July 01, 2009, 09:21:00 AM »

Could a filter be created for bow/arrow/string posts that aren't backed by experience? :D

Those of us still lacking a lot of kill experience with arrows need to pay attention to those who have. I encourage all the newbies to consider the sources. Everyone here is well intending, friendly, and usually descriminating, intelligent bowhunters. But that don't mean we know what any given head/bow/string/arrow will do to flesh and bone.

Theres a few fellers here who do know, cause they they've done it... a lot.

And lets not forget the wildcard factor. All of us who have rifle hunted know that you can put a centerfire rifle round through the goodies of two deer in a row... one drops dead, the other runs 65 yards spraying blood. And then theres the heart shot deer that hardly bleeds.

Just do your best. DONT OBSESS. Quit tinkering and enjoy what you have.

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #36 on:** July 01, 2009, 09:31:00 AM »

Bear... thanks for being a voice of reason. You hit the nail on the head.

Terry Green · « **Reply #37 on:** July 02, 2009, 10:42:00 AM »

Yes Bear, there is disscusion going on about how to solve the problem. Folks with experience will NOT be challenged and run off TradGang by non-experienced people that do more hunting of letters on a keyboard than in the woods. That was one of the many reasons Tradgang was started as it was a huge problem on another site and one reason for the growth here.

vermonster13 · « **Reply #38 on:** July 02, 2009, 10:46:00 AM »

GregD · « **Reply #39 on:** July 03, 2009, 08:55:00 AM »

Brian P, Contact them and tell them you'd like to see the 160 grain version slotted. They don't feel the demand is there to justify offering them. Greg


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Author Topic: Magnus 1 Four Blade (Read 1450 times)

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