Author Topic: Arrows for new Longbow...Kanati (Read 546 times)

Deadbolt · « **on:** July 08, 2009, 02:39:00 PM »

Well I got a new to me Kanati 58" 54# at my 27" draw a few weeks ago and have been playing around with it a bit.

I have finally had some time to fling some arrows I had in the shop and just couldn't come up with anything.

This is the heaviest bow I have and it was a big jump from my 45# widow so I have never needed to keep any heavy spined arrows.

So far I have tried:
2016's down to 100g point
Gamegetter 500's down to a 100g point
Axis 500's down to 185g point

The bareshafts impacted about 18"-20" right of the fletched on those arrows and I can visibly see the arrow kicking BIG TIME and they are making riser contact to weak I'm guessing.

All my arrows are 28 1/2" long and thats the length i want to keep them at. The carbons have the 100g brass inserts so I couldn't test any lower then that.

So my question is to everyone...what spine would be good for carbons the 400 series? I'm looking for a high FOC carbon at the desired 28 1/2" arrow.

Also what size aluminums would work?

robtattoo · « **Reply #1 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:19:00 PM »

Try this receipe....

Beeman MFX 400, 100gn insert, 200gn point. Leave it full length & you'll be good to go.
I have a friend shooting your exact specs out of that bow & we spent a while playing to get his bareshafts good. This is what we ended up with & he gets/got perfect flight, a 660gn arrow & 19% FOC with 4 4" feathers :D

Aluminiums? No idea! Far too complicated for my litte brain!

Deadbolt · « **Reply #2 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:27:00 PM »

I need the arrows 28 1/2" b/c I gap shoot...I'm not re learning my gaps I've tried going to longer and shorter arrows and ugly things happen LOL.

robtattoo · « **Reply #3 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:34:00 PM »

Oooooh nasty problem :eek: Shortening carbons -as you know- is a lot more effective at stiffening them than lightening the point weight. You could possibly try the 400 spine with 300g up front (Insert & broadhead combo) but it may be too stiff once cut to 28.5 All I can say is try it & see!

pdk25 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:41:00 PM »

Tom, Making a few assumptions using the dynamic spine calculator:

Assuming shelf cut 1/8" from center and fast flight strings with 56# @ 28" and a 27" draw length

28.5" mfx classic 400 with feathers/wraps
Need a total of about 290 grains up front
Total arrow weight 596 grains approx 11gpp
22.4% foc

29.5" mfx classic 400 with feathers/wraps
250 grains up front 576 grains 20.1% foc

28.5" mfx classic 500 with feathers/wraps
210 grains up front 506 grains 19% foc

If I use cut to center:

28.5" mfx 400 with 250 grains up front
arrow weight 566 grains 20.5% foc

29.5" mfx 400 with 215 graoms up front
arrow weight 541 grains 18.2% foc
28.5" mfx 500 with 175 grains up front
arrow weight 471 grains 16.7% foc

Alternatively 28.5" 2018 arrows with 190-225 grains might work (spine .464 12.3 grains per inch)

Hope this helps.

pdk25 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:43:00 PM »

I just didn't remember the exact specs on your bow.

30coupe · « **Reply #6 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:48:00 PM »

I am using Beman ICS Bowhunter 500s cut to 29-1/2" with the standard 30 gr. insert, 100 grain steel adapter, and 135 grain Zwickey Deltas. This gives me a 525 grain arrow with 22.25% FOC. These fly like darts and hit right where I'm looking from my 52# @ 28" Kanati. They bare shaft just fine, but the main thing I learn from bare shafting is that, if I pluck the string even a little bit, the arrows will take a drastic right turn.

At your draw, we are within a pound of the same draw weight. I can't see how your 500s could be too weak. If anything, they may be stiff and contacting the riser, which will make them KICK right enough to almost fly sideways to the target at times. Try ADDING point weight instead of subtracting and see what happens with your short arrows. Carbons stiffen VERY quickly when cut. Mine will tolerate a wide range of point weights at 29-1/2", but I'm not sure I want to cut much more off.

Add some weight up front and see what happens.

Deadbolt · « **Reply #7 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:50:00 PM »

Thanks pat I can't use any of them calculators on my computer LOL!

Yea my bow is 58" 57@28 or 54lbs at my 27" draw. I would like the skinny carbons like the axis shafts I use for my Widow.

The bow is cut to center.

joe skipp · « **Reply #8 on:** July 08, 2009, 04:48:00 PM »

AD TRad heavies, 100 grain brass insert, 125 grain broadhead and 30 grain XL BHA. AD Heavies are 11 gpi.

Deadbolt · « **Reply #9 on:** July 08, 2009, 04:58:00 PM »

joe where can i find them online?

Deadbolt · « **Reply #10 on:** July 08, 2009, 05:12:00 PM »

I went outside and shot a bit more. I put the fatter string on (I think its 12 or 14 strands) snd it also has a few puffs on it. Shot the carbosn again w/ 300grains down to 185g tips. 300s bolted right big time!! As I got lighter the groups got better.

At 185g's it was still showing weak but when fletched I could manage. I'm guessing with the thinner 8 strand string I gained that little bit more of energy to push em over the edge and make em to weak.

fireball31 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 08, 2009, 05:26:00 PM »

call me crazy, but won't your gap change when your changing weights on your arrows anyway?

Deadbolt · « **Reply #12 on:** July 08, 2009, 05:45:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by fireball31:
call me crazy, but won't your gap change when your changing weights on your arrows anyway?

My gap normally changes when i go really heavy and that only comes into play past 25 yards. The weight difference isn't that big considering I'm shooting my lighter bow with the same varience in weights etc. So going from one bow to the other I keep the same gaps as long as the arrows match properly to the bow.

That being said adding or removing length from the arrow disregarding spine makes hell on your gap...the varying weights can be adjusted for much easier then an arrow 3" longer.

deadpool · « **Reply #13 on:** July 08, 2009, 08:06:00 PM »

the arrows that shot best for me out of my 55lb @28" kanati where 2215's cut to 29" with points ranging from 125g to 170g, all fly great, hope this helps

Spike · « **Reply #14 on:** July 08, 2009, 10:36:00 PM »

Why not try building out your shelf? Cheap and easy to stick a piece of leather thong under the sideplate and then check/tune your arrows from there. Try different thicknesses till you get them flying good.

azhunter · « **Reply #15 on:** July 09, 2009, 12:20:00 AM »

I have had great luck with Trad Lites out of all of my bows ranging from 48#-53# cut 29" with 100 gr brass inserts and 125 gr heads. The are so forgiving and shoot out of a wide range in bow weight. I also have a Kanati coming this week, should be around 51# and my guess is the trad lites will fly like darts. (9.5 gr per inch) I think the trad heavies would work for you as well. I got mine from Ted at Raptor Archery, I also think you can get them from Badger Archery. Both are sponsors.

Deadbolt · « **Reply #16 on:** July 09, 2009, 04:17:00 PM »

thanks for all the info guys!!

nurayb · « **Reply #17 on:** July 09, 2009, 04:58:00 PM »

I have a 54 @ 28 kabekona that I draw about 28 1/2. 55/75 GT's at about 30 in. with 250 up front.

bentpole · « **Reply #18 on:** July 09, 2009, 06:04:00 PM »

Try a 35/55 Gold tip cut to 28"'s with a 145/175 field point. e-mail me if you need one .I'll drive down and deliver it!!??

bentpole · « **Reply #19 on:** July 09, 2009, 06:04:00 PM »

My Kohannah recurve that my Bud has was 53#'s @ 27"s Gold tip 35/55's smoke out of it with 175 grain heads.


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Author Topic: Arrows for new Longbow...Kanati (Read 546 times)

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