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Author Topic: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip  (Read 1127 times)

Offline AkDan

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #20 on: August 10, 2009, 11:20:00 PM »
Jcar...dont use the bhoning over your testors or your cap unless you are using bohning to cap and crest with...

If you want to over coat when using testors...use a waterbase gloss...gloss is harder then semi or satin.

There is an epoxy recipe a friend does...

Basically he does the devcon two ton epoxy (massie finish)...he caps with spray paint, crests with testors and uses fletch tape to fletch with...duco on the end of the feathers and nocks and makes some might fine looking arrows with ZERO target burn!  now if I could only get him to make me a set LOL!   I'll post his directions if I still have them on my computer.

Offline jcar315

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #21 on: August 10, 2009, 11:30:00 PM »
AkDan, I would love to hear more about the waterbase gloss and your friends "home-brew."  I have some Bohning white dipping paint....if I use this and the Testors will I have problems? Using the Bohning dip and Testors to crest what would be the best product to use to seal?  Thanks
Proud Dad to two awesome Kids and a very passionate pig hunter.

Right handed but left eye dominant.

Proud to be a Native TEXAN!!!!!

"TGMM  Family of the Bow"

Offline AkDan

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #22 on: August 11, 2009, 01:54:00 AM »
the home brew is not waterbase....

Yes you will have problems with testers and bohning paints, they are NOT compatable!  ONLY use bohning with bohning! You can use testers OVER bohning but may have adhesion problems in fletching as testers is duco, bohning is testers,  well that is my limited experience with bohning, but I do know if you dont seal the testers  with a waterbased FIRST just about anything non waterbase will eat it.   You'll see it in the gold and silver pin stripes first and depending on how hot, or how long you keep it in the first dip you may smear or bleed your bigger bands too!  If you seal the testers with a waterbase you MIGHT...read MAAAYBE be able to use the bohning over the testers.

The home brew is called the massey finish...went through some discs tonight looking for it, gotta go through some emails ugg.  Got a few LOL!  

Let me ask this though....why not just use your paint to seal your cap...seal the rest of the shaft up to the cap with your bohning if you're hellbent on getting rid of it.  Then cresting afterwards?   If you really want to seal the cresting then do an overcoat or two or three with a waterbase clear gloss in just about anything and depending on the paints used for the caps/crest, duco to fletch.  

It's not perfect and takes a bit of applications but it DOES work, and you wont have issues!  I'd steer clear of using laquer or any other 'HOT' type of sealer to overcoat your cap/crests.  It's a headache in the makings!

I'll keep digging tonight for that arrow building recipe for ya.  I think you'll like it.  epoxy is slow to dry...EXTREMELY slow, but you'll have an extremely tough and likely the bestest of best waterproof finish there is going!!!  and no target burn at all!

Offline AkDan

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #23 on: August 11, 2009, 01:58:00 AM »
it figures I'd open my old email addy and there it is!  Ha, so here you go.  I'm not up to posting his contact info so maybe he'll chime in if he's not to busy fishing!   I know a bunch of us have used it and it works well.  it took a little for me to get it right...well hey it's just me, I'm prone to making bad mistakes and getting them out of the way first LOL!    so here it is......

Tom Kiessling's epoxy/acetone finish for arrows, and its application.

1) First thing I do is stain shafts after marking the stain/crown  
line. I usually use aniline dyes from Gray Ghost Archery, but
anything will work. I only stain up to where the stain and crown
meet.

2) After stain dries, sand off any raised grain, then stain again
if necessary to achieve desired color.

3) If I don't have any epoxy formula made up, I use the following
procedure for that:

I purchase Devcon 2-ton epoxy and a can of acetone from Wal-Mart
in the paint section. I use a 4 or 6 ounce baby food jar to squirt
the entire contents of epoxy in to. I then completely mix the 2
epoxy parts until clear. I then add 1 ounce of acetone (1/2 jar)  
and stir until the epoxy appears to have dissolved and looks like
only acetone remains. I then fill the jar with acetone and stir
again for a few seconds.

4) Applied one coat of epoxy as described next:

Always wear chemical resistant gloves, I use the blue Nitrate cloves
that the tools trucks (Snap-On, Mac) sell to local automotive and
diesel garage mechanics. I use small cotton rags cut from t-shirts.
Hold arrow at nock or point end, make one long continuous swipe
from end to end. Then rotate shaft 180 degrees and do again. (Do
not attempt to double wipe on same side, the rag will only stick to
the first coat).

5) After epoxy dries, check for raised grain. Sand if needed.

6) Apply second coat of epoxy.

7) Next, I tape (2 inch making tape works well) off the shaft where
the crown and lower shaft stain meet.  I then spray the crowns on,
(I usually use Krylon enamels, and usually 2 coats are needed too).

8) After crown dries, apply cresting lines (Testors and Odds-n-Ends).

9) After crown and cresting are COMPLETELY dry, spray or brush the
crown and cresting with a thin coat of Min Wax Water Based
Polyacrylic (blue can). I prefer to brush mine on.

10) After poly dries, apply second coat.

11) After letting poly dry an hour, apply first coat of epoxy over
entire shaft. Make sure to check wiping rag for paint residue
after first arrow to insure that acetone is not attacking cresting
and crown. If paint is being attacked, crest the arrow if
needed, and give another coat of poly over all arrows.

12) If all is ok, I will usually put on 4 to 6 coats of epoxy,
make sure to smooth out finish very lightly with 0000 steel wool
between all coats (do not steel wool last coat unless you prefer
a satin finish).

13) I then set nocks using Duco cement, and mount feathers with either
Bohning Fletch Tape or regular super glue (not the gel stuff).
I prefer the tape. This makes for easy feather repair if needed.

*After I am done with the epoxy, I store it in a empty (purchased
new and unused at a paint store) pint paint can.  I will sometimes
mix up 3 or 4 doses of epoxy for the paint can too.  I do this
when I know I will be making several dozens of arrows.  The can
keeps the sun out, preventing yellowing.  It also keeps the acetone
from evaporating.

Offline AkDan

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #24 on: August 11, 2009, 02:05:00 AM »
the only thing I'll add is in my environment up here it took quite a long time for each coat to dry, this is by no means a FAST way to build arrows...it does however build an extremly DURABLE arrow!

You will notice he over coats with a water base poly BEFORE wiping on final coats of epoxy over entire shaft....do NOT skip this!!!  our you'll add more misery to your arrow building life lol.

Offline rustyspike

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #25 on: August 11, 2009, 02:41:00 AM »
Here's what I have found works well for me afer losing my my box of Dip tubes and paint.

The most important thing when using Krylon is spraying 3 to four light coats and leting it dry well. At least a day before appling another series of light coats. Repeat till you have you have color desired. Then let it dry another day or two. You want the paint to cure and form a good bound.

The spray clear coat DOES NOT  give you that really deep finish. The Minwax PolyCrylic workes well with Krylon. I diped it. It's water based so you can let it dry in the house. This required 2 to 3 dips.

I used Duco and fletch tape.  The duco did not run the color and I apply it heavy to both sides of the feather.

Arrows came out very nice. The real trick is giving the paint and clear coat lots of time to cure. I mean 3 to 4 days before glueing on the feathers. One last thing dont forget to clean the surface well.

Rich K

Offline jcar315

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #26 on: August 11, 2009, 08:07:00 AM »
Thanks AkDan and RS. Lots of good info.

Does any of this change in any way when using Easton alum. arrows?
Proud Dad to two awesome Kids and a very passionate pig hunter.

Right handed but left eye dominant.

Proud to be a Native TEXAN!!!!!

"TGMM  Family of the Bow"

Offline Bear

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #27 on: August 11, 2009, 08:35:00 AM »
>Rustoleum enamel crown
>Testors enamel cresting
>Minwax water-based poly (blue can) over the cresting only
>Fletch tape
>Done
Twin Oaks Bowhunters
PBS Associate Member
Traditional Bowhunters of Tennessee

"just remember, you can't put the wood back on"

Offline AkDan

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #28 on: August 11, 2009, 09:33:00 AM »
well obviously I wouldnt bother with the epoxy...as it's a sealer for using wood shafts.

The only way to know for sure is to try it.  I dont paint aluminums, but I dont see why it wouldnt work.  I have sprayed carbons once lol.

I'd end the system at a clear coat with a waterbase for your scuff coat, if not just omit this step all together.  It doesnt work so well as a scuff coat as much as it just looks nice and glossy imho, I dont build up a ton of over coats though.   The only way to know for sure is to try it.  The waterbase in overcoat in this system is to keep the final epoxy coats from eating away at your cap and cresting after all is said and done.

Its like taking gasket laquer and taking a caped and crested (with testers) shaft and try and overcoat it without protecting the crest with a waterbased something.   The first few lines will be ok...after that they all smear, starting with pinstrips ending with the bigger bands the longer they are in.  I'm sure if you're SUPER DUPER QUICK you MAY be able to get away with this....but I never could.  So if you plan on sealing OVER those cresting bands go over them first with the waterbase to keep your hotter sealer from eating it!

Offline Caranthir

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Re: Spray Paint for Arrow Dip
« Reply #29 on: August 11, 2009, 06:26:00 PM »
I like to keep it simple and inexpensive as well. On Aluminums I spray with the color of my choice from Wally World $0.97 a can and then a coat of clear coat (same price),fletch with fletch tape, dab the ends of the feathers with Duco also $0.97 per tube,wait for them to dry  and wa -lah, done. Works great for me. You can do a lot of arrows that way also. Never had any adhesion problems with the fletch tape over the paint and have been using this method for a long time. Use what works for you and have a great time Shooting.

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