Ferrltite Substitute

[Jerry Gille]

It just chaps my backside to have to pay $3.20 for a little stick of ferrltite.  Can anyone suggest a cheaper substitute that works just as good?


Thanks.

Jerry

[jcar315]

Not a big fan of the $ or the big burn on my foot from this stuff. No clue if it is "just as good" but a hot glue stick works so far for me.

WHOLE lot less $$$$

[DesertDude]

Hey Jerry, I have ditched the Hot glue and now use 2part epoxy(about a buck) for putting on BH & Tip on my Woodies and BH adaptors. Real easy to use and they clean up alot nicer.

[Dave Bulla]

I've been using hardware store hot glue for years.  Never have the greatest luck with ferreltite.  Seems pickier about getting the points clean inside and I think it's a little too hard or brittle.  One tip, the darker the glue, the harder it sets usually.  (Notice how dark ferreltite is?)  The almost clear stuff in craft stores is junk.  Get stuff that is kinda yellow/brown.  Good compromise between strength and elasticity.  I use my propane torch and it goes real fast.  Just don't overheat the tip to smokin' hot or it can actually distort the taper on the arrow and make it crooked.  Sort of like heat bending.  Especially happens if ya try to horse it down with a pair of pliers.   I quit using pliers and just use my fingers.  Put a dab of hot melt on the shaft, heat the point till you start feeling heat in the tip and slide it on with a spin or two.  It'll be hot enough to spread the glue real nice.  Press the point down on the table a couple seconds till glue sets and spin test.  Adjust if needed.  

Another tip, as a stick is used and starts getting short, just heat the unused end of the stick a tiny bit and stick it onto a new stick and you have an extra long piece to work with and no waste.

[George D. Stout]

I never use epoxy for points; I like to get them off if necessary with limited heat.  An amber hot melt will work fine, and you can get it at most department stores on the cheap.  The real key to keeping points on with hot melt is not to use very much. Just a little skin of it around the taper..either wood taper or tapered adaptor.  Make sure your field points are clear of the release solution that is use in them.  A little bit of hot melt on the taper then heat it and twist the head until it stops turning.  Then dip in cold water.

I shoot heads seated with hot melt into 3D targets, stumps, etc, and it is extremely rare for one to come off.

[fillmorehd]

I  have used kimsha glue stick I got from Kustom King it costs six bucks and is as big as 5 sticks of the other.  Holds tighter and melts with less heat.  My buddy uses it on carbons as well. I havent lost a point with this stuff.

[Jerry Gille]

I appreciate all of the suggestions.  Thank you.

Jerry

[Fletcher]

Jerry, you're only gonna shoot them once before you lose them anyway.  Plain old Elmers will work for that.

The amber sticks or epoxy will work fine for squirrel arrows and the epoxy is much faster to work with.  I can recommend the Kimsha glue for your deer/practice arrows.

Hope to see you on Sunday, altho Brad and I may go chase squirrels that morning.

Rick

[Steve H.]

Come on Jerr, aren't you a tool guy?  Drill and pin witha nail then cut and grind!  That'll keep 'em on!

[Smallwood]

kustom king, and 3 rivers have some of the kimsha glue. works real well.

[Jerry Gille]

Oh, you guys are wrong about the squirrel arrow thing.  I don't use glue for that at all.  That's way too costly for my cheap butt.  I got a little homemade crimping tool and I just crimp those heads on.  Quick, simple and Rick is right - works just fine for that one shot!

Rick, if you have any of that Kimshaw stuff, bring me some to buy off ya on Sunday.  

Steve, man you should see that last bow I made out of honey locust.  That baby looks real nice.  I'm going to cut me some more of that.  I still can't believe you got married........

[Paul WA]

Woodworkers supply, I get the dark amber in bulk 10" sticks, super cheap...PR