2 blade vs 3 blade, flight problems

[stick_string]

Has anyone ever experienced bad broadhead flight with a three blade and then good flight with a two blade?  I am shooting a 60inch bow with a 7 - 7.25 brace hieght, shooting 54#s with CX shafts with 400 spine, 225 up front.

My field points fly really well (or at least apear to be)...then I put my snuffers on and I almost went through the fence at 15 yards!!              

Thinking about switching to a two or four blade to see what happens...thoughts?

[Jeremy]

The bigger the broadheads magnify tuning problems more.  Take what you learn from where the snuffers go and change you setup accordingly.

You'll also want to check the broadhead alignment... if it doesn't spin true your arrow won't fly well.

[maineac]

I am still pretty new to the carbon tuning thing, but was the broadhead flight left or right of the firld point, or up and down?  Spine issues will really show up with the bh's.

[stick_string]

Up and left

[stick_string]

What I dont understand is that I can drill (Stack) my arrows together with a field point and then I throw a snuffer on there and I might as well throw the steering wheel out of the car.

     

[huntindad]

Nock low and stiff I believe but there are many more experienced on here than me with trad gear.Bill

[snag]

Did you bareshaft tune these arrows with field pts. before moving on to the broadheads? Even though with a fletched shaft they appear to fly good with field pts. you will see how well tuned they are when you put broadheads on. One step at a time....

[stick_string]

Need to bareshaft...I think...thanks snag!!

[OS]

I had the good fortune of meeting Roger when he was still making the snuffers he talked me into shooting 4 5.5 inch feathers on hunting arrows

[stick_string]

If bareshaft right then too stiff right?

[Jeremy]

If your bareshafts (or broadheads) are impacting to the left of the fletched shafts, then your shafts are too stiff for a right handed archer.  If they're hitting high than you need to raiser your nockpoint slightly.

[stick_string]

Shaft is flying to the left with the nock more left than point...what is that?

I am right handed.

[SS Snuffer]

Thats Stiff. Try a heavier point and see if it gets better.

[Mo. Huntin]

Dangit I should have read it better, I got confused.  I agree if it is hitting left I would say stiff.  That is the same thing that big ol snuffer is saying stiff.
I would fix my nock height then see where you are at.
How quiet is your bow without silencors, I have seen Guru suggest removing them before.  There are several ways to add a little weight to the front of your arrow.
Good luck bud.

[Charlie Lamb]

Your brace height sounds too low if it's a recurve. 8 - 8 1/2" is more like it with most recurves.

[TradBowyer]

if you have enough arrows fletched up, shoot some with field points and some with broadheads and look at where your broadhead arrows hit in relation to your fieldpoint arrows. This works better for me than bareshafting. For right handed shooters, if your broadheads are hitting right of the fieldtip arrows, your shafts are too weak...either shorten the arrows a little at a time, go with a lighter point, or build out your sideplate...if they hit left, they are too stiff so you will need to add more weight up front. when everything is tuned, your broadheads will fly right with your fieldpoints at any distance. sometimes tuning can get frustrating.

[John3]

If fletched arrow impact left (right handed shooter) your arrows are too STIFF...  Decrease brace height or add insert weight, or longer shaft...

Broadheads show the "bare naked truth" in reference to your arrow tuning set up.  Years ago after suffering these headaches I went to ONLY tuning my shafts with broadheads... Get these to fly perfectly and of course field tips will be right downt the middle. Actually I shoot broadheads 95% of the time all year long.

[stick_string]

Thank you guys!!  I learned some VERY, VERY important lessons.

Here is were I am at:

I put on 140 grain Magnus 2 blades and they are flying like darts (hitting to the left and right of where my field tips are).

Lessons Learned:
1. Weight your BHs and make sure they are the weight you think they are suppose to be.  Dont take someones word for it.  I thought the BH I was shooting (Woodsman) was a 150grain, but they were in fact 170.

2. Always try multiple points in your arrows not just the first one that seems to fly right.  When I was initially trying to find the right end point I stoped at the one that seems to fly the best, not knowing that if I would have gone up one more time (from 125 to 150gr BH) it would have been perfect!!

3. Need to shoot more BHs and less Field Points.  I shoot in my backyard and never realized that I had some target panic when shooting BHs because I did not want them to go through the fence (despite the 3/4 inch plywood I have behind the targets).  Practicing with BHs is a must...glad to have learned this lesson before getting in the woods and wounding game.

 

[donw]

make one "adjustment" at a time. you'll see the results when it happens.

i, personally, prefer two blade...never had that much trouble tuning them...but the snuffers have 'vented' blades so that shouldn't be an issue. and IMO, the faster the bow shoots, the more the difficulty in tuning big solid heads.

most of my recurves operate well at a 7.75" to 8.00" brace.