glue

[ed]

I recently bought cedar shafts and glued everything including the points onto them with DUCO cement.  The fletchings are holding good but the target points are coming off in the targets.  Is there a better glue out there for wooden shafts that forms a tighter bond so I'm not performing surgery on my 3-D target any more to recover heads.

[FlyinCedar]

I use hot melt and dont have a problem... there is actually a super strong glue that is heat reversible. You can get it from 3 Rivers, but I cant for the life of me remember the name of it right now. Maybe someone will help me out

[NoCams]

ed,
never used duco for points, but I would just about bet that is not the main problem.... Did you clean out the tips with acetone and a Q tip first ? If not then the oil residue from manf the points is killing your glue bond. Just swab out with a wet one, then dry or blow out with compressed air and THEN glue. We use regular old super glue and never had a point come off. It is heat reversible too. Or as FlyinCedar said above, good old ferrule tite hot melt is hard to beat.

nocams  

[freefeet]

I use a little grinding stone on my dremmel to rough the inside of the points first, then clean thoroughly with meths before hot melting.  I also score the wood taper slightly with a small file to give some extra purchase for the glue.  Never had one come off.

[m midd]

the hotmelt is called ferr l tite. its great for points

[Grey Taylor]

Duco just isn't suitable for points. It's great for nocks and fletching but will fail when used on points.
Be sure to clean the points well to remove all the oil or grease and then use a high quality hot melt glue or an epoxy. I prefer 12 minute epoxy as I don't have to juggle hot tips and molten glue but a good hot melt has been the go-to glue for points for decades.

Guy

[Gordon martiniuk]

Hot melt all the way buy some good stuff(Bohning) and you will never loose a point again and if you ever need to remove it a little heat and  you can use point of broadhead again with epoxy if you break shaft good luck on ever useing it again without alot of work to remove epoxy  

[Grey Taylor]

Gordon, I have to say that I've been using epoxy on points for some years now. It's no trouble at all to get the broken piece out of the tip for re-use.
Believe me, as cheap as I am if I couldn't re-use the point I wouldn't use the glue.

Guy

[AkDan]

you can always tell an epoxy point though Grey..they do take quite a bit of heat LOL....and some will POP off due to the heat..but you're right you can get them back and if you're having issues with tips falling off...epoxy will be the likliest cure for it!  Learn how to shoulder points too....that'll help greatly unto itself.

[Grey Taylor]

I honestly don't know what epoxy you guys are using. I use a little more heat than with hot melt but it's not all that much more. And I know what the pop is, but it doesn't happen to me when I'm taking off epoxied points.

Guy

[ed]

Thanks folks.  I appreciate it.

[FlyinCedar]

Well, evidently the stuff I was referring to isnt available at 3 Rivers anymore. I cant find it on their site. Best of luck to ya

[horatio1226]

I have never had a point come off with epoxy. If I need to remove it, I use a candle and pliers and they come right off.

[lpcjon2]

I use the stuff you get at a fishing tackle shop for rod tips, I guess its like hot melt but you can heat it up with a lighter and the stuff works great.

[Tim Fishell]

I used to use hot melt and had issues in the cold weather in Michigans late season.  I have use Goat Tuff glue for the past 5 years on all my arrows, cedar and aluminum and never lost a point since unless I break the arrow.

[Tom Leemans]

Duco won't stand up to the impact.

Epoxy is my go to. It holds up at the MOJam target butts. If will hold there, it will hold anywhere.