Author Topic: Couple questions for you arrow making Gurus (Read 489 times)

TRAP · « **on:** October 08, 2009, 12:08:00 PM »

I need to seal this crown and crest up to keep it from smearing. Here's how I got to the place I am now.

My questions are

1. Can I use this to clearcoat without runs?

2. If I can use the water based poly, should I thin it with water before I dip the arrows, even though the can says not to thin it.

3. If not the H20 based poly, then what?

Thanks in advance. I stopped in for lunch and wanted to get the question out there. Will check back after work.

Trap

Caddo · « **Reply #1 on:** October 08, 2009, 01:07:00 PM »

Water based Poly will be fine. I've never had anything run with WB poly.

LD

jcar315 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 08, 2009, 01:09:00 PM »

Trap, I will be interested in others responses. I can tell you what my experience was / is.

1. I crown dip mine in Bohning white (haven't used spray paint too much)

2. Crest all my arrows now with Testors. Already the right consistency and lots of colors to pick from.

3. I have used the water based sealer ALOT though. I have never had to thin it at all. I use a foam brush for max control and brush it on.
I try to be careful about when I apply the water based sealer (don't apply it when too cold or too humid)

When using Testors it does not like any sort of sealers that are too "hot" and I have had tried all types and have had no success with testors holding up to anything but water based sealers.

Not sure if this helps at all but wanted to let you know. Water based is hard to go wrong with. I was thinking about trying the spar urethene with the bohning and testors but have been hesitant.

Let me know how it goes.

Bjorn · « **Reply #3 on:** October 08, 2009, 01:47:00 PM »

Trap, those are cool colors! I use Raptor dip-water based and non smelly. Nice cresting!!

Whip · « **Reply #4 on:** October 08, 2009, 02:53:00 PM »

The water based poly is exactly what you want to seal in the Testors. I just brush it on over the cresting while spinning the shaft on my cresting machine and apply a couple of good coats. Let it dry well and you're good to go!

Elk River Shooter · « **Reply #5 on:** October 08, 2009, 03:14:00 PM »

Tried the Spar urethane over the testors and its a disaster. Best to use the waterbase; a few coats brushed on works fine.

pronghorn23 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 08, 2009, 04:40:00 PM »

This is great! Few more questions...

Do you seal the shaft with the poly-finish first, crest and then reseal? Or crest first and then seal?

Also do you use a dip tube to seal and if so do you use a gasket while dipping.

I currently seal the shaft first and then crest...using Bohning Sealer. Works great but the fumes are crazy. I have to dip them while outside and even then it's too much!

Bjorn · « **Reply #7 on:** October 08, 2009, 05:55:00 PM »

Seal, crest and seal again. I don't use a gasket, it is a water based poly dip.

horatio1226 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 08, 2009, 06:38:00 PM »

I love those little sponge brushes. I've been a professional painter for 25 years and have always loved sponge brushes for certain things. Painting metal and sealing arrows are 2 of those things. Thing about a sponge brush is it doesn't leave brush strokes and they are cheap enough to throw away. I also use the h2o poly. In fact I use the Ace brand all the time. Holds up great!

vtmtnman · « **Reply #9 on:** October 08, 2009, 07:20:00 PM »

I just have to say I LOVE that cresting!I have a vintage arrow that looks VERY similar to that.My next set of woodies I'd like to do up vintage looking like that.

jcar315 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2009, 09:06:00 PM »

Trap makes some great looking arrows.

Is that a micro-flite???????

Looks very nice!

NoCams · « **Reply #11 on:** October 08, 2009, 09:40:00 PM »

Guys,
I was thinking of switching to regular Minwax poly thinned down a little and dipping to seal over my testors. I have used Polycrylic water based before but recently ruined a dozen I had crested a couple days before. The Polycrylic crackled over the testors, never had that happen before. See my thread, "cresting crackled " from a few weeks back. I am pretty sure I got ina hurry and dipped them too soon after cresting. I think you should let the testors fully cure for a week before dipping. A day or two is not enough.

Anyone use regular Minwax Poly before over testors ? I have heard some say I think , that they used the wipe on poly ? For the folks who are using water based poly how long to fully cure testors whithout problems like I had with crackling ?

nocams

jcar315 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 08, 2009, 10:19:00 PM »

Holy smokes! I usually let mine sit overnight at least. I crest at night out in the shop and let them sit until the next day when I get to them to seal with water based sealer.

I will check out your thread on crackled cresting.

Also, be sure to follow the guidelines on the can. They are specific on temp and humidity.

TRAP · « **Reply #13 on:** October 08, 2009, 10:54:00 PM »

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll give them untill tommorrow and them I'll dip them in the water based poly.

vtmtnman, the crest idea is stolen from a Bear X-200 arrow. 1957-58 vintage.
Simple but kinda neat.

John, you have a great eye. Those are indeed microflites.

I love cedar, but man the MFs fly good.

Trap

jcar315 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 09, 2009, 08:47:00 AM »

Trap, Would love to see the "finished" product pics.

I just picked up a few #8's and they do fly great out of my bow. Nice and heavy and super quiet.

Good Luck!!!!

pronghorn23 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 09, 2009, 10:31:00 AM »

Great thread and thanks for new ideas.
Bjorn, thanks for the step process. I wanted to try something other than the Bohning products but was leery of trying something new.

I have a hard enough time trying to pick out cresting colors from Bohning and Whispering Wind. Now I'll have a whole display full of Testors color to try! Oh my!

NoCams · « **Reply #16 on:** October 09, 2009, 04:42:00 PM »

After talking with snag I just ordered me a quart of Daly's Profin oil base clear. Seems to be a far superior product than regular ole Minwax. $17 quart plus shipping direct from Daly's. Should hold up much better to target burn and I will let everyone know how it works, or not over testors. Hard to find dealers, but again you can order direct so no big deal.

Trap, please let us know how the water base comes out over your testors. I am batting about 500 with water base, but again I think it was because I got in a hurry and my testors enamel crest was not cured under the water based poly. Good to learn from each other here for sure !

nocams

TRAP · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2009, 01:53:00 PM »

Okay, here's the finished product for those following this thread.

The water based poly worked well. I probably should have let the Testors cure a couple more days(I gave the Testors 10 hours). There is some minor swelling of the pin stripes, but deer won't care at 10 yards. The poly is still a little soft after 30 hours but it's hard enough for shooting without the crest smearing.

A few turkey feathers applied with Duco cement and a trip through the Young feather burner and they are ready to go.

Trap

NoCams · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2009, 03:44:00 PM »

Trap,
Dem sure is purty sticks !!!

Thanks for posting your results. I will post mine after I dip in the Profin Daly's. Sure hope it works okay with my testors and gives me the clear finish over my white cap dips. Snag said the Daly's solves any target burn issues as well. My Daly's should arrive sometime next week.

nocams

vtmtnman · « **Reply #19 on:** October 10, 2009, 04:21:00 PM »

I love them Trap.


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Author Topic: Couple questions for you arrow making Gurus (Read 489 times)

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