Finish for Wood Arrows

[tntsl]

Has anyone tried using shellac as an arrow finish?  It sounds like shellac has somewhat low heat resistance and poor solvent resistance but I don't know whether or not that would really be a problem.  So, has anyone tried shellac and if so, how did it work??

[JEFF B]

i have not tried that as i only use tru oil and that works dandy.

[NoCams]

Just finished a dozen woodies and after using the Dalys Profin I will never use anything else ! Awesome product. snag is the tradganger who turned me onto it and we love this stuff. Resists target burn, dips on like water in a dip tube, dries crystal clear over my white cap dip.

I bought my Dalys direct from Dalys since they have no distributors in TN. 1 qt was $32 with $15 of that haz mat shipping, so $17 a quart. We dipped 4 coats, spilled a little, and still only used 1/4" out of the top of the can so I think this quart will last me 5-6 yrs.

No more Minwax products for me. I had trouble with the Polycrylic water based recently, it crackled over my testors enamel cresting paint. It is also no where near as durable as the Dalys Profin. The oil based Minwax poly will yellow over my white cap dip so do not like that either.

Have not tried the tru oil that Jeff mentions above on arrows, but we have used it on osage and hickory solfbows with great results. I am sure it would work well on arrows to if you prefer just to wipe your finish on. Not sure if it would yellow over a white cap dip or not ? Jeff, how tuff is the tru oil for target burn ? I bet it is pretty tough finish as thick as it is ?

Thanks again snag for turning us on to the Dalys !


nocams  

[tntsl]

Hey NoCams, did you get the Daly's Profin in satin or glossy finish?

It looks like I'll have to get some straight from Daly's also.  Sounds like a great product though.

[reddogge]

Shellac has about 0% waterproofing ability would not be recommended.  I use Minwaz wipe on poly and spar varnish would be good too.  I don't like laquer at all and have had minimum water protection on lost and recovered arrows.

[UrsusNil]

I use the Tru Oil too, it's very durable. Three coats and it is water resistent and does not rub off from the target. I guess if it did you could just rub more on where it came off. It gives the arrows a matte finish, which seems to be a bit louder than the laquer dipped. I'll need to try steel wooling or a different rest material to see if it quiets them down.

[NoCams]

Satin Dalys tntsl. We are also glueing our feathers and nocks on with Duco per snag's advice too. $1 a tube at Family Dollar stores.

nocams  

[Falk]

Shellac has its drawbacks when compared to other stuff, right. However, I use it for maybe 20 years on my wooden shafts - as it is the "romantic approach" - for what I started the whole bow and arrow thing in the first place.

Its best to use Shellac in combination with linseed oil though - mixed with Cedar or Juniper wood oil for nosing pleasure - just as described by Pope (1925) in Hunting with the Bow and Arrow.

I do crest my arrows with acryllic airbrush paint since 25 years. Problem is, the alcohol in the Shellac mixture will solve the acryllic paint. I whipe on an additional layer from time to time, but have to stop at the cresting. I do the oil coats more often and they go all over the place, even the feathers!

With time this "finish" will darken and it just looks and feels natural to me. I have several sets of old shafts sitting here which must have last me at least 10 years. I really like their looks!
I also like the fact, that I dont get target burn with this kind of "french polish" finish, even though I seldom shot at ethafoam at all.

Shellac does work for me ...