Clicker Friendly bows

[A.S.]

For you guys who have experience using clickers on various bows.....MY question is, are some bows more user friendly than others?

I am currently shooting and ACS CX, and another top of the line, wait a year to get, highly regarded, super smooth, takedown recurve.

Well my ACS is like butter as I'm at full draw and start my expansion to trip the clicker.

My recurve feels like someone is standing behind me holding my elbow. It just feels like it gets stuck before I can trip the clicker.

I have shot a clicker for over 17 years and have had other recurves feel easier to pull through the clicker than this one.

By the way, my ACS is just about 1# lighter in draw weight than my recurve.

Any opinions???

[DEATHMASTER]

No opinion on this as I just got one out to play with on a bow. I think the same recurve as yours.
I will be watching this post on clicker shooters.

[Manitoba Stickflinger]

I too have been shooting clickers forever it seems. The only thing I can think is that for some reason the clicker is set a touch further back with your recurve thus making it more difficult to make "click". I know for me I've had the same thing happen a couple times and the reasons were: 1)The clicker cable had slid a touch up the string making it longer to the "click".(only if set on the top limb...slid down if on the bottom limb) or 2)The adhesive backing on the back plate of the clicker was beginning to let go and making my draw length longer until the "click". 3)The cable material allowed more stretch than the previous material used.

I've also noticed that the type of wrist position affects draw length and clickability....if that's a word??? eg. high vs. low wrist.

You've likely covered all these but hope this helps....Ryan

[Tim]

Hey Clicker Boy Allen.....sorry to highjack your thread (we do this often, don't we)    

  :rolleyes:    :rolleyes:    :rolleyes:

[A.S.]

Pics Tim??????    


Ryan, if anything I have the draw length a little shorter on the recurve. I find myself shortening it ever so slightly just to get that "feel". I can get it to where I'm shooting it ok, but then I've lost over 1/2" of draw lenght....and like I said, I've been doing this a long time and know what my draw length should be.    

Also I'm using string loop material used on compounds for my clicker cord....no way it is streatching.

[paradocs]

It's all in your head, dude.....  

"It's all in your head, dude....."  

THAT could be very true.  I shot a clicker for years-long before most hunting archers even knew what they were.  Reason... target panic.  I then started to anticipate the clicker.  I was like you describe.  I'd freeze and couldn't put that last 32nd of an inch.  It had nothing to do with weight. It was all in my head. I had to go back to a real light outfit, hit the blank bale and work on form.  If you concentrate on every aspect of your form you can't think about the clicker.

[bmb]

i have had clickers do this. for me, i had it at an odd angle on the bow limb. it also made the bow louder.

[A.S.]

Thanks guys....well everyone except Paradocs    

Jim, I know what you are talking about. I have been through that also, but this something different. I can shoot the two bows side beside and there is a world of difference.

BMB, you may be onto something. I'll try moving it around some when I have more time.

[R.V.T.B.]

I am now shooting the metal bows, Titan, with ILF limbs. They are smooth all the way through my 29" draw. I found sort of the same thing though when I tried to put a clicker on an older Super Kodiak. It seemed like I would get to full draw and increase back tension but for some reason it took about 50 more pounds of force to pull through the clicker than it does for my ILF's. I just came to the comclusion that I must pick up about 10 more pounds of draw weight in that last 1/32" of draw length on teh Super Kodiak.

[A.S.]

Randy, I had a DAS Master and it felt the same way....smooooth. Same with my ACS. I think some bows just work better than others with the clicker.

[wingnut]

With a recurve, it's all about mechanical advantage.  If the curve is rapidly approaching he 90 degree point of the string you start gaining in draw weight per inch.  That acts as a stop if your used to drawing 3# per inch and all of a sudden you have 3.25# per inch.  Your body goes "ah that's the spot".

With a static curve with a deep hook (like ours.  .LOL) the mechanical advantage actually reduces the weight as you get longer.  Making it easier to hit your draw.

Longbows like the ACX and ours draw evenly out to the 90 degree string angle.

Hope that makes some sense.

It truely is about the math.

Mike

[A.S.]

Mike, thanks a lot! I will re-read your post over later. It makes a lot of sense.

I'm cutting up my deer right now!!

[DEATHMASTER]

Do most mount on the top or bottom limb?
At the fad-out or by the tip/midpoint?

[DLM]

I put the clicker below the grip. Now I'll ask about a problem I keep having. Keep breaking clickers { 4 this year }. Chain breaks or cone on end pulls through spring steel plate. I release as soon as it clicks. Would placing them close to limb tip eliminate this problem? Put them by grip with the thought that it doesn't affect limb performance. Don't have any proof that that happens

[bmb]

i put mine on top limb. as close to the tips as i can without it hitting anything when strung or unstrung. i have tested it and clickers will NOT affect bow performance.....on one longbow, it dropped my speed by 3fps....but besides that nothing.

dlm- i would not use the chain supplied with the clicker, use release rope...and it soundslike you have to be pulling past the clicker. it takes alot of force to break the chain or cone. ive shot clickers for years and never had one break. once, i had a guy pick up my bow and draw it ( unaware of the clicker) to his 31" drawlength. well the clicker didnt work after that, i took it apart and simply popped the spring steel back the way it should be and it works fine still.

[Manitoba Stickflinger]

I place mine high on the top limb as well!

[elkken]

Allen I don't think it's the clicker or you, obviously the recurve is deffective and you need to send it to me ... and on another note I decided on the ACS for the late hunt the MAX will have to wait. Good luck to ya !  

[A.S.]

Guys, I finally figured out my problem. I have my clicker placed on the top limb about 10" down. The clicker cord that I was using was a bit too short, causing too steep an angle when drawn. The cord was actually digging into the top edge of the clicker, causing it to bind up.  

I added a longer cord, adjusted, and now everything is fine.

Ken, my lefty bow wouldn't do you any good, so I guess I'll keep it.  That ACS should treat you well in the late season....can we say SMOOTH!!

[billy shipp]

Awww heck.....I was hoping you'd decide the problem was with the bow and not the clicker itself....I was already saving my money  (:

Glad you got it straightened out.