Broadhead Tuning Frustration..Any tips?

[NYRON]

I'm fine tuning a set up with broadheads and just can't get the point of impact I'm looking for. Does anyone know of a hunting weight carbon shaft that spines in between .500 and .400?  For my set up, shafts with a .500 spine are too weak, yielding poor flight. Shafts with .400 spine fly great and hit where I look with field points, but impact left when shooting broadheads. I've tried to remedy the left hits by adding point weight and increasing brace height, but broadheads just wont impact with the field points no matter what I do. I'm reluctant to increase arrow length because then the point of the arrow gets in my peripheral vision. Below are the specs.

58" TradTech Black Onyx with 50# Black Max Carbon limbs. The bow is pulling 49# @ 28" and 47# at my 27" draw length. I'm shooting off of a Hoyt stick on rest.

My arrows are 29" BOP Beman ICS Bowhunters in .400 spine with 240-270 grains up front. I've tried Magnus 2-blade, Woodsmans, and Zwickey No Mercy. These all fly well, but hit 4" to the left of my field points at 20 yards.

Thanks for any tips you can provide.

Ron

[ishoot4thrills]

I would try maybe cutting the 500 spine arrows just a tad. I also recommend trying Beman MFX Classics in 500. They're kinda heavy and I think would work well with your setup. They're also smaller diameter, which may very well help get your point of impact more to the right.

Just curious as to why it bothers you so much as to be able to see the point of your arrow in your peripheral vision? Your subconscious mind knows it's there anyway and whether you know it or not, you make adjustments with your bow hand in order to hit the target where you want based on information transmitted to your brain via your eyesight/arrow point/bowhand position coordinating together.

[Cherokee Scout]

Change the way they fly by shooting a longer or shorter shaft or by changing point weight.

[Bowmania]

I'd go back to the .500.  I'm shooting a 53 at 28 drawing to 29 inches and shooting .500 with a 125 gr adapter and a 160 Snuffer.  The wide blade of the Snuffer are harder to tune, but mine fly great.

THe arrow doesn't get in the way of your peripheral vision, it makes you a better shot.  Hill called it secondary vision.  (Gonna hear it for that one, but I couldn't resist.)

If you really think you need something between call Easton and tell them your problem.  Tell them you want an ACC shaft for your set up.  I'm sure they'll have something around .450, but you won't like the price.  They are a carbon shaft, but will bend, since they have aluminum in them.  The reason I say call them, is because I don't think they'll tell you to get a .450 shaft.  I talked to a woman and was apprehensive (I thought she was having me go too stiff), but she was very knowledgeable.

Bowmania

[Bowmania]

Should have mentioned that my arrows are 32 inches.  I found no need to make them shorter.

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Strip some fletching and bare shaft tune your setup. Once you're done, your broadheads should impact with your field points.

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by Bowmania:
Should have mentioned that my arrows are 32 inches.  I found no need to make them shorter.

Well, actually you may need to make them shorter if you're using the 500 spine or they just may be too weak if you don't.

  Why don't you want to make them shorter, if it's needed to get the correct spine?   :confused:

[Bill Carlsen]

I think Jason nailed it. How are you set up....off the shelf, elevated rest....?????? If you are using an  elevated rest you may find that fine tuning with a plunger will get you where you need to be.

[freefeet]

Originally posted by NYRON:
I've tried to remedy the left hits by adding point weight and increasing brace height, but broadheads just wont impact with the field points no matter what I do.

How much point weight did you add?

Whack it up to about 350 and see what happens!  I was quite amazed at how much point weight my arrows could take before they tuned.

And you can always build your shelf out with the weaker arrows to tune them.

Also, you can reduce your string for the stiffer shafts.  I shoot a 6 strand d97 flemish on a 46# bow so yours should be ok with that.  It'll soften the dynamic spine down a tad and you won't need as much point weight adding.

[NYRON]

Hi Guys:

Thanks for the advice, so far. I should have mentioned that I have tried shortening the .500s to 28," which does give me the correct point of impact, but arrow flight is lousy.

As for bare shafting...I have done that too. The 29" .400 shafts fly like darts when shot un-fletched. I can group bare shafts with my field points out to 15+ yards. It's only when I shoot broadheads from finished arrows that the problem rears its head.

I hear what you are saying about seeing the arrow in my peripheral vision. I should have explained that I already use the arrow as part of my shooting process. From 0-30 yards I can see the arrow, but don't conciously aim with it. I just know it is there and use it in a split vision type of aiming technique. At 30 yards and beyond, I use the point of the arrow as an aiming device to get correct elevation.

When I lengthen the arrow beyond 29," I start to see too much of it on those shots that are less than 30 yards and it becomes distracting.

Perhaps I'm trying to accomplish the impossible given the arrow tuning restrictions that I've put in place.

[Greg Skinner]

I have a 52#@27" Liberty Chief Elite that I shoot GT 55-75's (spine .400) out of.  I tried the 35-55's cut short and they did exactly what you describe with your short .500's, so I use the .400s cut to 29 1/2 and get much better flight.  I bypass the bareshafting and go straight to broadhead testing. Your set up is a little less draw weight, but is probably closer to center shot and recurve, so is perhaps similar in shooting characteristics.  I use a 6 strand DF97 string and 50 grain brass inserts with 260 grain point (100grain steel adaptor plus 160 grain Ace). With the high EFOC I can use 3 3" feathers and the broadheads fly great. My arrows come out at 566 grains, which might be a littly heavier than you care to shoot. You didn't say what string you are using, but I guess I would try a skinny string and add a little more point weight just to see if the point of impact moved over to match the field points.

[BWD]

CE Heritage 150s are .487 spine, and for me, do react a little stiffer than GT 35/55 @ .500 spine.

[ron w]

Try shooting cock feather in, sometimes it helps when your clos to the right set up but not there yet. It has worked for me.

[overbo]

Maybe try a different glove or tab

[BWD]

No expert here, however I have found that carbon shafts react faster/more to lenght changes than weight.

[Wolfkiss]

Try this,

 http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

[Grayseas]

Originally posted by NYRON:
Hi Guys:

Thanks for the advice, so far. I should have mentioned that I have tried shortening the .500s to 28," which does give me the correct point of impact, but arrow flight is lousy.

As for bare shafting...I have done that too. The 29" .400 shafts fly like darts when shot un-fletched. I can group bare shafts with my field points out to 15+ yards. It's only when I shoot broadheads from finished arrows that the problem rears its head.

I hear what you are saying about seeing the arrow in my peripheral vision. I should have explained that I already use the arrow as part of my shooting process. From 0-30 yards I can see the arrow, but don't conciously aim with it. I just know it is there and use it in a split vision type of aiming technique. At 30 yards and beyond, I use the point of the arrow as an aiming device to get correct elevation.

When I lengthen the arrow beyond 29," I start to see too much of it on those shots that are less than 30 yards and it becomes distracting.

Perhaps I'm trying to accomplish the impossible given the arrow tuning restrictions that I've put in place.

Have you spun tested the broad head on the arrows you are using? If the are not square to the arrow they will not fly the same as field points.

[capt eddie]

Try a flipper rest with the plunger.  That is the best way to be able to make some adjustments.

[stickhorse]

had same problem with one of my bows. mounted my heads flat, and cock feather up as Abe Penner of Cari-bow recomends. bare- field and broadheads all fly to same group.(as you test shoot broadheads first, learned the hard way)