Dipping tapered shafts with gasket?

[Arrow4Christ]

What is the proper method for dipping tapered shafts using the gasket system? I have read that you need to alternate ends...does this mean dip one way then immediately the opposite, or dip one way, let dry, then dip the other way? If it's the latter, does it take twice as many dips for equal coverage on a tapered shaft?
Thanks!
Craig

[Don Stokes]

Craig, I dip one way and then dip the other way. When doing a dozen, you don't have to wait for them to dry- by the time you get the last one done, the first one is dry, up to about 3 coats. When the shafts start to get some shine to them, you might want to wait a few minutes for the next dip. I usually get the finish I want in 4 dips, 2 each way, but it depends on how thick your gasket lacquer is.

Between dips I remove the excess from the point and nock tapers so it doesn't build up too much.

I think you need to alternate ends whether the shafts are tapered or not, but I'm not positive about that. All of mine are barreled.

A tip- wear gloves! The gasket lacquer is rough on bare skin. I sometimes use a folded paper towel to hold the ends, but usually get some on me when I do that.

[Arrow4Christ]

Don,
Thanks...I'm actually going to be using the gasket system with Spar Urethane, so with a longer drying time would I want to let them dry before alternating ends, or could I just dip one way, dip the other, then set it up to dry?
Thanks!
Craig

[Don Stokes]

Craig, I haven't tried it, but people tell me that the gasket system doesn't work well with other, thinner materials. Gasket lacquer has the consistency of honey, or thereabouts. The gasket wipes off too much of thinner stuff. I overthinned my GL once (acetone) and after 8 dips I quit, and was still not completely satisfied with the finish- it was uneven. I refilled my tube with fresh GL, and it worked fine.

[Whip]

I haven't tried anything but gasket lacquer for my shafts, but I simply install the nocks before dipping and use the nock to hang onto while dipping rather than alternating ends.  Seems to work fine for me.

[Arrow4Christ]

ttt
Do you use tapered shafts Whip?

[Forester]

I may be out in left field here, but are we possibly confusing the "taper" that you were reading about?  I believe I have read the same thing but I assumed (there's that word) it was in reference to shaft end tapers for points/nocks and not for 10" of taper along the shaft.

If cut to length with point and nock tapers in place then you can not dip the whole shaft without also dipping your fingers or other item holding the shaft, which gets messy, and/or also leaving a small portion undipped because your fingers won't fit through the gasket.  Therefore, dipping from both directions allows covering the point/nock tapers with less mess and without missing the little bit between the gasket and the lacquer.  OTOH, if you have not cut your shafts to length and have no point taper in place, then you likely have a few extra inches to hold while dipping beyond desired length.  This extra length allows for the "entire" arrow to reach the lacquer below the gasket.  As long as the whole in the gasket isn't so large as to lose effectiveness I do not believe that tapering, say from 11/32 to 5/16, comes into play for dipping.

If I am way off base here then tell me to be quiet and listen and I'll be happy to learn something new.

I mostly use 11/32 shafts tapered to 5/16 and I cut them to length and turn point/nock tapers before any finish work.  I use the gasket system on dip tubes and have no problems with Helmsman spar straight from the can.  I usually dip six coats through the gasket always with the nock end down.  My point tapers are long enough that I can hold the very tip and get full coverage with the tube filled nearly to the brim.  The last 3/16” inch of my point taper doesn’t get urethane but it usually gets trimmed to fit in a point or it gets glued and covered before long.  As Don noted above, cleaning the excess from the nock end after each dip is helpful.  When dipping a dozen I usually can second dip #1 after #12 is hung to dry, but after 3 or 4 coats I wait a few extra minutes (as Don said above).

I've had good luck with this process.  I hope your chosen method works well for you.

[Arrow4Christ]

I'm not talking about nock and point tapers, I'm talking about a tapered shaft, from 5/16" on the nock to 23/64" on the point end. You only wait a few minutes between coats of the Helmsman?
Thanks,
Craig

[Forester]

A4C,

Yes, I understand that you are talking about shaft tapers.  I was just wondering if the material you read was refering to end tapers?  I just couldn't guess why a shaft taper would make a difference.

Yeah, I only wait as long as it takes to dip a whole dozen until I get to the 4th coat.  Even then I only wait about 5 or 10 min. before starting with #1 again.  I always find something to clean up in the meantime.  And I always dab off the drop hanging from the nock taper before I dip again.  Like I said, I've had good luck with it and that is on maple, Doug fir, ash, and POC that are tapered 11/32 to 5/16.

[Don Stokes]

Forester, it's good to know that the gasket will work with other materials. I guess the spar urethane is thick enough to work like the gasket lacquer. Gasket lacquer is nitrocellulose, and is highly flammable, so the do-gooders will probably outlaw it at some point.

FWIW, I was referring to dipping barrel tapered shafts with point and nock tapers done. I reverse the shaft each time to get an even coat on both ends. The gasket lacquer tends to be thicker on the lower half of the shaft if I don't reverse it each time when dipping barreled shafts. It may just be in my dipping technique rather than inherent in the process.