How do I build a arrow with high foc?

[Margly]

Hi!
I am trying to build an arrow with a foc at ca 26% + foc, but need some advice.

Here are the specs:
bow 63@30 my drawlength is 30" so the shortest I can cut an arrow is 31" for clearance for broadheads etc.

What do you Tradgangers think?

What kind of arrow do I start with?

Margly  

[steadman]

Your best bet will probably be carbon. I use woodies, but have a shorter draw. Mabey some other guys with more knowledge on the subject will chime in. Good Luck!!

[Margly]

Thanks Steadman!

I have tested with Easton fmj 340, 300 and the fmj Dangerous game but the problem is that they gets really heavy if I`m going to high in up front weight.
The dangerous game 250 have a weight of 17,2 grains pr. " so we are quickly talking about a weight of 1300 grains + for getting the foc.

The goal is an arrow total weighted in the area 650-800 grains.

Margly

[JimB]

I have some 300 spine Vapor Pros that are something like 8.6 gr per inch.A 30" arrow with 400 grs up front has about 27% FOC and weighs about 700 grs total.

[Margly]

Thanks JimB    

I will check the out.

Margly

[JRY309]

You might try a tapered carbon like AD Trad heavy or a Grizzly stick.To get a carbon with the high FOC like 26% you will need alot of weight upfront.Even my parallel carbon with 225 to 275 grs. up front usally end up at 20% or slightly less.I find it easier to get higher FOC with the tapered carbons and still have an arrow that tunes well to my bows.

[stickbowguy]

Also try the ABS Grizzly Stick Alaskans or safari with a 315 point or higher. I shoot the Sitkas and my finished weight is 670gr. FOC is up around 25-28% and they fly like darts and pack a punch. Im only shooting 48#@28 but this set up sure works.

[James Wrenn]

Start with the lightest shaft you can and stay away from heavy shafts if you want high foc.

[Fishnhunt]

What about Victory Archery V Force HV carbon in 300 spine @ 6.9 grains per inch? Full length is 31"
What type of bow you shooting? Is your riser cut past center? If necessary you could you could build out the strike plate and make the bow less center cut so that your bow wants a weaker arrow.  
Good luck

[Richie Nell]

James is exactly right.

You don't want to get heavy gr./lb. arrows.

You need to get Gold Tip 7595.  The lighter the better.  Keep it full length to begin with.  Load up the front with a 100 grain brass insert, 125 grain adapter and a 190+ grain head (grizzly). That should get you real close in spine and will give you about 26-28+% EFOC.

Then bareshaft it.  If it is too weak cut 1/8 inch off the nock end.  If it is too stiff get back to us.

[Traditional-Archer]

Here are the specs:
Bow 63@30 my draw length is 30" so the shortest I can cut an arrow is 31" for clearance for broad heads etc

O.K that’s a start center cut under or past center do you know this, it will make a difference when you start. If you don’t know find out by calling your dealer or post the maker of your bow we can find that out here.
I have a 55/75 GT cut to 28.5 100 G insert 200 tip 28% if you tried the same setup you will most likely be at 20% 22% because your arrow will be 2.5" longer it could put you at as much as 25%.  Here is the key if you know your cut of your window you will know if you will shoot a stiff arrow or week. If you are shooting right handed and shoot center cut, if you want a weaker spined arrow and want to shoot heavy arrow tips build out your side plate, this will require you to have more tip weight to clear your shelf ,the heavier the spine the more tip weight to break the spine to clear the shelf. By moving your side plate out you stiffen your spine.    :eek:

[Ragnarok Forge]

Look at the beman bowhunter shafts.  They are some of the lightest on the market for the spine you will want. I have some 500'S set up at 650 grains with 27.9 % FOC for my 55lb longbow.  Give them a look for the spine weight you need.  I also shoot full length arrows and have a 30.25 inch draw length.

As stated earlier find the lightest shaft in you spine that you can and then work from there.  It makes it much easier to get EFOC.

[amar911]

I have AD Hammerheads cut to 31" with 100 gr brass inserts and 70 gr brass screw-in weights on the back of the inserts. I also have the aluminum collars up front, but they don't add much weight. I use 315 gr Ashby broadheads and have unibushings with g-nocks at the other end. I also have 4 x 4" fletching. With that setup I get about 915 gr arrows and an FOC of about 24%. I shoot these arrows out of my 60" Super Shrew 68#@29.5". For a high FOC arrow for one of my lighter bows of around 57#, I would go down to a Hammerhead Lite shaft, use only the 100 gr insert without the 70 gr screw-in weight or the collar and would lose about 100 grains of arrow weight and drop the FOC down closer to 20%, I think. I haven't done the measurements on those arrows yet. The AD shafts are tough as nails, and part of that comes from beefy (heavier) walls that partially offset the front weighted tapered shaft design. Still, they are plenty front heavy for me.

Allan

[Margly]

Hi!

I did order a set of Gold Tip vapor pro today and think they will be near the optimal set up. The weight was 8.5 grain/inch so the total weight would be ca 685 grains with 400 gn.
up front foc 25,66 %  :D  

The bow is cut 3/16 of an inch past center.

Thanks for the help    

Margly

[amar911]

Margly,

My son just spent Christmas vacation in Norway, just a short ways across the border from Sweden where he is living (he currently lives in Gothenburg). Please don't ask me the name of the town in Norway where he was staying, because I don't know.

It sounds like you have a good recipe for the arrows. They should be great for just about anything.

Allan

[Earl Jeff]

I'm going w/ fishnhunt victory v force HV300 are 300spine and only 6.9 GPI you should be able to put a couple hundred grains up from for a ultra high FOC.

[Rob DiStefano]

as some have mentioned or alluded to, use a carbon shaft, scout out the stiffness and grain/inch mass weights of each, wight out the nock and feathers, then figure out how much to load up the front end.

i use beman ics 500's, 29.5" raw length, bohning nock and 4" four fletch, 100 grain brass insert = 335 grains.  

with 250 grains of point and steel adapter i've got a 585 grain arrow w/27% foc.  adding in a 155 grain internal shaft footing nets me a 740 grain arrow w/32% foc.  

swapping the 100 grain brass insert for a 65 grain alum insert, plus the internal footing, gives me a nice 665 grain arrow w/30% foc and 12gpp for my 55# longbow.
 
lots can be tweaked by selecting the right weights of insert, adapter and point.

[Traditional-Archer]

Margly

Just one thing, is this your first attempt to come up with an arrow that will have high FOC. If so just remember from my own past experience ask before you cut that is the key. If I would have followed my own advice in the beginning it would have saved me a lot of wasted money, of course then I wouldn’t have gotten the education I did.
”THE HARD WAY” Plan and save.
Bruce  

[Traditional-Archer]

Reason: Under spined (weak)
Remedy: Lighter point. Or thicker side plate, or shorter shaft, or switch from a DF-97 or FF string to Dacron, or stiffer arrows "OL Adcock  

If you want to shoot a light spined arrow and a heavy arrow point, you need to do some homework.
My suggestion is to use a three arrow bare shaft and three fletched arrow test. This is to find out how stiff the arrow you are trying to tune is shooting. If you use the guide that OL has given us to use above. Really the only option you have to maintain the arrow length, arrow spine and without going down in FOC is to build your side plate out to stiffen the arrow to keep arrow tip weight. One other idea is to go to a heavier spined arrow. Remember arrow weight per inch has nothing to do with arrow spine.  Good luck.  

[Margly]

Thanks Tradgangers for all help.
Hopefully the new shafts will be at my address coming week, and then I`ll do some testing and let you know    

Happy New Year!

Margly