wood arrow internal weight

[Zradix]

I have drilled a 1/8th inch hole in the tip of my wood arrows to various depths. Then I glued a piece of stainless rod cut to length in the hole. I have added up to 300 grains doing this. The thought was how do I add front weight without adding things to the tip that seem to me would act like a lever in an off angle shot trying to break my arrow. My other thought was this may well work as one heck of a footing. My next experiment might be with a small tube inserted into the hole going in around 4-5 inches. Then inside the tube I'd fill with lead for maybe an inch or two to get the weight I want.
Anyone ever try this? or ever heard of someone doing it?  Maybe I'm traveling down a path proven to be a dead end. I haven't broken an arrow yet or had any real problems. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks

[JRY309]

One of the sponsor's here sells a jig for drilling a hole in the front of wood shafts for doing like you did.For me I never felt the need,I would just use a heavier point.I'm not convinced that EFOC works well with wood arrows.but it doesn't hurt to experiment with new things.JMO

[Zradix]

I'm not convinced it's the way to go either. I'm just messin around. It's cold out and I need something to do.

[Mike Most]

Have you fitted a lighted nock into the back end yet? (on a woodie)

[Zradix]

nope, Never even thought of it. Could be fun

[Stickbow98]

I've used Braveheart's internal footing jig to add weight to the front of my arrows and I like the way they fly and penetrate with it. Can't imagine going in 4-5 inches though. Are you using a press to do this?    :confused:  

>>--Ron--<>

[Zradix]

yes, If I tried to go free hand I'd have whistle arrows..lol. I'll have to look at the jig you're speaking of. I'm just clamping them in a homemade jig on a press....really low tech. A piece of angle steel with a couple clamps bolted to it to press the arrow into the angle joint.

[Hud]

I bought a footing jig from 3Rivers for this purpose, looked like a good way to add a little weight and reinforce the shaft.

[Orion]

Thee were several threads on this topic last year.  I've been experimenting with it for some time.  Made my own jig so I could drill different size holes in different size shafts.  Wrote an article about it which is in a past issue of Trad Archers World.

It works to a point.  A good way to add a little weight if you're using a fairly light point, say 125-130 grains, and shoot a fairly light weight bow, 50# or less.  However, there are a lot of newer heavier (175-200 grains and more) heads out now that obviate the need for an internal footing.

The problem with trying to achieve EFOC with wood is that wood usually isn't found in spines high enough to handle it.  Loading up the front end with 250-300 grains of steel,lead or whatever, requires another 30-40# of spine or more.  If one shoots a moderate or heavier weight bow, or has a long draw, it's just not possible to find wood shafts with sufficiently high spine.  Fun to play around with though.

[Fletcher]

Zradix, how deep did you have to go to get 300 grains?  I've been doing this using 1/8" lead wire at 35 gr/in; somewhat heavier than stainless.  I also use a drill press and jig and find that 2" is pretty easy, but 3" is about the practical max for me.

I've not had the chance to try my front loaded woods on game as yet, but I really like the way they shoot, and I can get good weight from the lighter wood shafts this way.

[SlowBowinMO]

I only need about another 10 pounds of spine to shoot 250 grain points, but my bow is cut to center, not past.  Bows cut to center or less are really key to point loading regardless of the shafting material used.

I really like the way a Surewood flies and penetrates with a 250 grain point.  Using the jig plus a heavy glue on point really helps boost overall weight.  I'm currently building another batch of Surewoods that will also use 250 gr points, and total arrow weight will be over 700 grains!    

Surewoods also are consistently available in spines as high as 115#.

The Internal Point Weight and Footing Jig is currently available at 3Rivers Archery and Braveheart Archery for those who are interested in trying one.

[Jack Skinner]

I liked the idea and bought one of the jigs, and it works great. My problem comes with the fact that I already shoot arrows in 650-750gr range. So adding a nail up front strengthen my shaft at the tip but my arrows were above 850gr., more than needed for my low 60lb selfbows. So I would have to go to a wood shaft that has lower weight but 65lb spine or better. I know there are woods out there that will work such as Hildibrand Spruce shafts but I like making my own from boards and nothing available around my area that I have tried has worked so far. So I stay with ash with what has worked in the past and shoot true antelope and deer without difficulty. Will be doing some more experimenting this winter, even if I dont use the shafts it is fun messing around in the shop.

[Zradix]

Fletcher.. That time I was using some 3/16th stainless rod. It weighed about 58 grains an inch. I ended up putting about 5 3/16" of rod in the arrow.

[Zradix]

You begin to get less and less return for your work the longer you go. "if you're looking for efoc" Since the weight is not at the tip of the arrow it isn't as effective at changing the balance point. Now as far as an internal footing...I don't know where to stop. That's why I was thinking about a front weighted tube inserted way up in there. Haven't done it yet. Gotta find my missing "roundtoit" I know it's here somewhere...

[Zradix]

Fletcher. I found that "pecking" at it was the secret to getting a deep hole.