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Author Topic: Question for more experienced archers  (Read 446 times)

Offline joevan125

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Question for more experienced archers
« on: January 06, 2010, 02:41:00 PM »
I have a 30in draw and i shoot full length Heritage 150s out of all my bows. Morrison ILF recurve 48@30 62in, Widow PSA X 50@30 62in and these 2 bows shoot great with 125 grain heads.

I just got a Bear Paws longbow 64in 48@30 and the only head that i can get the bow to shoot darts is a 200 grain head. The bow shoots really quit but its a lot slower than my other 2 bows becaues of the weight, i guess.

My question is why want my Bear Paws longbow shoot well with the 125 grain heads like my other 2. I just sold my ACS 49@30 and it also shot great with 125 grain heads.

Im fairly new so if this is a stupid question please go easy on me.

Thanks
Joe Van Kilpatrick

Offline Tim Fishell

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2010, 02:44:00 PM »
The 3 bows that shoot that arrow well are cut to center or a little beyond.  The Longbow is probably not cut to center so there for it needs a weaker spined shaft.  You are weakening the spine of the shaft by putting more weight up front on your arrow.
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Offline lpcjon2

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2010, 02:45:00 PM »
Hang tight George will be along shortly.   :thumbsup:
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difference in the world, but the Marines don’t have that problem.
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Offline wtpops

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2010, 02:50:00 PM »
Tim has it. My first question would be is the Bear Paw cut to 3/16 past center like the other bows. If not you will need a weeker arrow to get it past the riser. Adding weight to the tip of the Heritage gives you that weeker arrow.
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Offline joevan125

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2010, 02:52:00 PM »
Tim is there anything i can do to the rest so that i can shoot i lighter weight head.

When i first shot this bow with 125 grains up front it shot 2 feet to the left and i put it in the classifides that day.

After playing with it and adding the weight i started liking the bow more and more and also its the prettiest bow i have ever seen so i took it off the classifieds fast. It shoots great but like i said its a lot slower that my other 2 bows.
Joe Van Kilpatrick

Offline joevan125

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2010, 03:05:00 PM »
Anybody else!!!
Joe Van Kilpatrick

Offline Tim Fishell

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2010, 03:10:00 PM »
Joe the only way would be to either go with a heavier insert in the arrow or move up to a stiffer spined arrow.  On bows cut to center or past center you can make them take a weaker arrow by building out the strike plate but unless you want to start carving on your bow (which I wouldn't recommend) there isn't much you can do bow wise.
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Offline Whip

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2010, 03:11:00 PM »
I think that is pretty much the nature of the beast Joe.  Change one variable (like center cut) and you will need to change another to compensate.  Like heavier point weight or a different shaft.
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Offline Steelhead

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2010, 03:13:00 PM »
Not a stupid question at all!

Is the bear Paw a 3 piece or one piece.If its a 3 piece I would assume its cut to center or past center like the morrison or widow.

I would assume the Morrison is faster than the Bear paw.Though I do not know that for sure.Iknow my cheyenne is a very fast bow and similar to the ILF in performance.If you have the carbon foam limbs its gonna be even faster.So it would need a stiffer arrow that the Bear Paw.Thus it shoots the lighter point well since that makes the arrow go through less parodox.

If the Bear Paw is cut out from center its gonna require a weaker spine as Tim stated to bend more to clear the sight window better without interferance.

I shoot heavier points or lighter spined shafts out of my one piece longbows that cut 1/8th of an out from center than I would from my bows of the same weight that are cut to center or past.

I think 3 variables may effect the fact that the same weight bow,drawn the same length,with the same length arrow and point may require  a different spine.

The performance of the bow.How deep the sight window as cut and whether or not you are drawing the differnnt bows the same length of draw.Some grips increase draw by a tad and some may lengthen draw by a tad.

Also some risers and or grips may actually increase your power stroke by a bit depending on whether the riser is straight ,deflexed or backset.

brace height settings can effect performance of a bow as well and tuning as well as nock point height.

A few variables to think about thier.Food for thought anyway.

Online pdk25

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2010, 03:15:00 PM »
Maybe it's me, but at hunting distance I doubt that 75 grains will make that big of a difference in trajectory.  Then again, that wasn't your question.

One thing that you could do is shoot arrows that are a little longer than the ones that you shoot from your other bows, say 3/4"(?).  That would weaken them so you could get away with a lighter head.

Offline joevan125

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2010, 04:16:00 PM »
Im shooting full length heritage 150s and im not sure they make another arrow longer than those.

Its not that big a deal because i know it will still kill a deer i would just like to get some more speed if possible.

Thanks for all the replys.
Joe Van Kilpatrick

Online pdk25

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Re: Question for more experienced archers
« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2010, 05:57:00 PM »
Well, you could get some of the carbon express 90 heritage shafts.  They are spined 0.530, as opposed to the 0.487 which is the spine of the 150's. Not sure what the full length is on those.

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