Footed shaft

[dj]

Well I did it.....went and broke my very first homemade POC arrow trying to straighten a slight bend down near the point.  The break was about 2" above the point, so now I want to try  to salvage the arrow by footing the shaft.  My questiion ......is there a right and wrong way to install the footing with respect to the grain in the original shaft.  I plan to plane, sand, the 5" long chisel shape on the shaft and glue it into a saw kerf in the footing material.  Does it matter if that long chisel shape is parallel or perpendicular to the grain of the shaft????  Thanks

[JRY309]

I have seen foot repairs,there was a guy who made a foot to fit the standard point taper.You would cut off your shaft and put a taper on it and you would then glue on the foot.Maybe some one hears knows what I'm talking about,I just can't remember where I saw that.

[The Gray Fox]

The web site is  www.reparrow.com  and he offers three types of wood, the walnut and cherry are $15 a dozen.

[aromakr]

dj:
To answer your question, the old timers usually planed the shaft with the flat of the grain. Be sure to put a small clamp below the kerf in the foot to prevent spliting of the material.
Bob

[Dave Worden]

I've not tried this, but I suspect that you'd be better off if you left a flat at the end of the shaft rather than planning to a sharp chisel point, and then left a corresponding flat spot on the foot.  Just seems like planning a sharp chisel point is asking for the arrow to split the foot when it is shot.  Yeah, I know, the glue joint should prevent the splitting but personally, I'd be more comfortable with a little mechanical prevention as well as the glue.

[joeare]

I have already footed dozens arrows, some of them after they broke some of them when they were still new (hardwood footing to prevent damage just below the tip). I have a tool for that called splice tube.
You can see one here:
 http://www.bogensport-online.de/product_info.php?products_id=365&osCsid=25ba008df0f7fabee55f8d453551788b  
I use a knife and always plane the edge grain to prevent that the cut becoms wavy because of alternating hard and soft wood layers. The tip of the splice is always on my strike plate side so if the footing brokes it will not pierce my hand. By the way I use a water proofed wood glue and none of my footings have broken , yet. Some broke just before or after the footing but never in the footing.