I agree...using cardboard as the last step really makes a difference for that final sharpening. I got these directions from Ron...might be helpful to others. I had asked him specifically about single bevels....
Use of the KME Broadhead Sharpener on single bevel broadheads (as described by Ron)
First: We're not changing the bevel per say, we're just adding a very narrow secondary bevel right at the very cutting edge. It's called a duplex bevel and it's commonly used bevel geometry among knife makers for making cutting edges extremely sharp and very durable. You still have your 25 degree primary bevel but right at the cutting edge, it increases to about 26 or 27 degrees.
Secondly: There's a huge difference in the amount of time it takes to sharpen an "out of the pack" laminated tip BH like a Magnus II or Zwicky Delta, and a BH that comes out of the pack with well ground bevels like a Magnus Stinger or your Samurai.
Steps
1. 90% of the "work" on a single bevel is done on the bevel side. (I use a back/forth motion to speed up the process). With the coarsest grit stone that you're going to use, (in your case the fine side of the Norton), work just the bevel side until you have raised a burr. It doesn't need to be big and heavy, just a light continuous burr from tip to heel. This should take about 2 minutes max.
2 Now, don't do anything with the burr just yet.
3. Instead go to the hard Arkansas and do the same thing to polish the bevel. As you do this, the burr will get a little bigger.
4. When the bevel is polished to your liking, flip the clamp and using all forward strokes, do the absolute minimum necessary to remove the burr from the unbeveled side. I'll do 3-5 forward passes down the stone and check the edge for sharpness... not quite there...? Do a couple more and check again.
5. When the blade feels sharp, finish it up by doing a short series of forward strokes flipping the clamp every pass, just like you would a double bevel. This will prevent a burr from re-forming on either side of the blade. It should shave hair readily at this point.
6. As a last step, I'll strop the blade on a piece of plain corrugated cardboard. Leave the head in the sharpener and pull it backwards along the cardboard about 10 passes on one side of the blade then 10 more on the other side, then 1 flip, 1 flip, 1 flip. The head should now shave effortlessly.
Give that a try and let me know how you make out.
Note: I've had people question if this isn't putting a micro bevel on the unbeveled side? The answer is it shouldn't because we're only spending enough time on the unbeveled side to remove the burr, and the burr is actually built up above the flat surface of the unbeveled side. We're just taking off the burr and don't really go so far as to create a micro-bevel. Even if we do, the bevel would only be a few thousandths wide at most. I know Ed Ashby fairly well and we have talked about this. Ed says, even if we do go so far as to create a micro bevel on the unbeveled side, he's seen no difference in performance or rotation in his testing.
Topic: KME Broadhead Sharpener......Unbelievable!! (Read 382 times)
