spineless wimp arrow ideas

[JEJ]

If this arrow tuning spine question belongs in The Shooters Forum, sorry for putting it in the PowWow but guidelines said I might get faster/more answers here. Trying to work on my form this year with a light 35# target bow. I have a dozen 5/16”, 35# -40 # spine, POC, w/125 gr. field point already built I’d like to use with the 35# target bow if I can. Problem is this arrow bare shaft shooting is consistently hitting to left of aim point (I'm RH shooter), which is “stiff” I think. I have read I can put on a heavier point and/or decrease side plate thickness to reduce stiff. Already have moleskin thin side plate, so I guess that is as thin as I can go. As to increasing point weight, I can’t find anything heavier that 125 gr. for 5/16” point. I tried putting #8 bird shot in point which brings it up to 140 gr. or so, but doesn’t leave much room for gluing on the shaft. Any ideas on how to weaken this spine a little? I’m new at this arrow tuning, and I bet some of you have run across this before and can steer me to something. Thanks for help.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

is there a archery shop close to you? if so, go there and pick up some old bent shafts of different sizes. Find the ones that fit over you POC's. This will add some weight to the point end. It might help.

[JEJ]

Thanks Mysticguido. Do you mean put an aluminum arrow “collar” a couple of inches long or so over the shaft behind my 125 point? I have a dumb question, will it get hung up pulling it out of the target? I would need to file down the alum collar so it is smooth I'm guessing. Sounds like a good idea I could try, thanks.

[Old York]

I suggest first fletching up three of your bare shafts,
use those as your "reference", and then see where your bare land w.r.t. fletched.

What is your bareshaft testing distance?

[Orion]

If your POCs are in fact spined 35-40#, there is no reason they should be showing stiff with your bow.  Wood just doesn't bare shaft like carbon or aluminum does.  Fletch them and shoot them. They'll fly great, unless you have some form problem that's throwing them to the left.  Plucking will do that, as will moving the bow arm to the left and a few other things.  God luck

[JEJ]

Thanks for the suggestions Old York and Orion. I had all the arrows fletched up already for another bow, and I wanted to bare shaft tune the arrows I have already to use on the 35# target bow, so I stripped the feathers off one of them. I shot several of the fletched ones at my aim point and got a decent group, but the bare shaft one kept hitting off to the right of my group of fletched arrows about 12” - 18” at 15 – 20 yards. Could be form, but at 35# I was really trying hard to get good back tension, no pluck, steady bow arm, etc.  Do I have the cart before the horse? I thought the idea of tuning was to try to bring the bare shaft to hit where the fletched group was, but I could have all of this wrong. I really appreciate the help, thanks guys.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Originally posted by JEJ:
Thanks Mysticguido. Do you mean put an aluminum arrow “collar” a couple of inches long or so over the shaft behind my 125 point? I have a dumb question, will it get hung up pulling it out of the target? I would need to file down the alum collar so it is smooth I'm guessing. Sounds like a good idea I could try, thanks.

Yes, just like you said. Also if you make them long enuff to also put a insert in the Alum shaft and still have enuff shaft over the wood You can use screw-in points (+/- point weight)

[JimB]

I use 2117 aluminum footings over my carbons which are 5/16".

[JEJ]

JimB, I had some 2117s in my hand just yesterday and didn't make the connection to using them as footings (insert Homer Simpson "doh!" quote here). Will definitely cut off some 2117 and slip it on the 5/16" woodies. Is there any length you think I should try ... 1", 1 1/2", 2" ?? Thanks for the lead on the 2117.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

just to foot and still using glue on points.. 1-2" to use inserts enuff for insert plus 2-3" over the shaft.

I have used 4" 2" over shaft and 2" for a plug for glue on points.

[jrchambers]

if you are shooting right handed and your bare shafts are hitting to the right then you are showing weak i belive, then you could just cut them a little, the goal is to move the bare shafts to the fletched group.

[JEJ]

 

I feel like a goof. In my original post I said my bare shaft is hitting left of my fletched arrows, then a few posts later I said the bare shaft is hitting to the right of the fletch! I know you must be thinking I need to learn directions like that farm lad who didn’t know his left from his right, so upon joining the Army his Sergeant attached “hay” to one foot, and “straw” to the other … forward march! hay foot, straw foot, hay foot, straw foot …

Sorry for the misleading info, and the bare shafts are (really) hitting on the LEFT side of my fletched arrows, which many of you guys have pointed out indicates a stiff arrow. After some really good suggestions I plan to take off the leather side plate on my target bow, and put on moleskin to reduce its thickness. I also plan to add some 2117 footings to my woodies to increase point weight. I hope that will bring the bare shaft close to my fletched group. I know I changed where that bare shaft is hitting more times than Jay Leno’s changed time slots!    Thanks again to all who have helped.