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Author Topic: What should I do?  (Read 505 times)

Offline wisconsinteacher

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What should I do?
« on: February 26, 2010, 05:32:00 PM »
I thought I had arrows that match my bow.  (45# Grizzly and 3555 GT arrows)  After learning more my arrows are over spined.  Should I add more weight to them, sell them (6 of them) and start over, or get new arrows and keep these for flu flu arrows, try them out of my 50# Montana?  I am kind of frusturated right now, I thought things were going well then I shot at a longer distance with a bare shaft and it is very easy to see they are not flying straight.  What would you do?

Offline JimB

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2010, 05:37:00 PM »
I would think they should work.If you are positive they are too stiff.Try heavier points.Start with 25 grs heavier than you have now and increase point weight till they fly well.

If you haven't already,read the tuning information on bowmaker.net

I wouldn't give up on those arrows yet.Good luck.

Offline wisconsinteacher

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2010, 05:47:00 PM »
When bare shafting, you want the bow straight up and down not canted correct?

Offline poison arrow

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2010, 05:48:00 PM »
Try them out of the Montana first of course.

Offline JimB

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2010, 05:57:00 PM »
Yes.Straight up and down.

Offline BWD

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2010, 06:01:00 PM »
I shoot 35/55s out of a 45# Grizzly. They are kinda long, for me, at 30" bop, but fly very well.
"If I had tried a little harder and practiced a little more, by now I could have been average"...Me

Offline EzArcher

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2010, 06:01:00 PM »
what is your draw length and poundage?  3555s work great out of my 50# bear montana longbow cut at 29.75 inches and 250 grain points

Offline wisconsinteacher

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2010, 06:08:00 PM »
Well I just did a quick shoot at 15 yards with a 100 brass insert and a 250 grain tip and I was still getting nock pointing right from where the arrow went into the target.

Offline kevsuperg

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2010, 06:10:00 PM »
i am shooting 3555 of of my 46# bear alaskan 28" draw 30.5" arrow (full length) with 175gr up front. they fly great. i dont bare shaft, i dont paper test ,i dont walk back tune. i fletch em and shoot em. if they fly straight and hit the mark thats all i care about. i think people get to wrapped up in the technical side of archery and loose sight of the simplicity of archery. rememeber when everyone shot a woodie with 125 up front and that was that..
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Offline blktail

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2010, 06:16:00 PM »
Are your arrows actually flying nock right or are they nock right after impact? What kind of target are you shooting into?

Offline wisconsinteacher

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #10 on: February 26, 2010, 06:25:00 PM »
Nock right after impact and I am shooting into a bag target.

Offline BWD

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #11 on: February 26, 2010, 06:49:00 PM »
I often see arrows jump left or right at impact, when shooting into my bag target. IMO, where are your arrows impacting a bag target is more important than nock left or right. I do not use a bag target when bare shafting, because they do not always give me a true indication of arrow flight.
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Offline wisconsinteacher

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #12 on: February 26, 2010, 06:53:00 PM »
What kind of target should I use.  I have a BH target.

Offline BWD

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #13 on: February 26, 2010, 07:05:00 PM »
Try the broadhead target and see what happens. And, I agree when the weather permits, you should shoot further than six yards. I'm not sure your arrows would even be out of paradox at that distance.
"If I had tried a little harder and practiced a little more, by now I could have been average"...Me

Offline wisconsinteacher

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #14 on: February 26, 2010, 07:07:00 PM »
I shot at 15-20 yards tonight.  I will try the BH target tomorrow.

Offline blktail

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #15 on: February 26, 2010, 07:31:00 PM »
When bareshafting Try to watch the arrow flight right before it hits the target, also shoot a fletched arrow. If tuned properly your bare shaft should hit the same as the fletched one.  Let us know how your doing. Your form is crucial also when bareshafting. JM2C

Offline David Mitchell

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2010, 07:45:00 PM »
I've never bare shafted in my long life of arrow shooting and have never had a problem with arrow flight.  I do know that 3555 GT's work great for me out of my bows that are in the 45-50# range at 29 1/2" arrow length and a 29" draw. My heads weigh usually 175 grains.
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Offline carphunter100

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #17 on: February 26, 2010, 09:58:00 PM »
try shooting them through paper. the hole in the paper will tell you what you really have. you can not go by which way the are in a bag target. i shoot alot into a bag target and they (lean) as i call it left, right and up and down. paper tune is the way to go.
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Offline ishoot4thrills

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #18 on: February 26, 2010, 10:44:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by kevsuperg:
i am shooting 3555 of of my 46# bear alaskan 28" draw 30.5" arrow (full length) with 175gr up front. they fly great. i dont bare shaft, i dont paper test ,i dont walk back tune. i fletch em and shoot em. if they fly straight and hit the mark thats all i care about. i think people get to wrapped up in the technical side of archery and loose sight of the simplicity of archery. rememeber when everyone shot a woodie with 125 up front and that was that..
Nothing wrong with striving to obtain optimum arrow flight to increase the likelihood of better penetration on game and, ultimately, a short blood trail and quick recovery.    :)
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19.9% FOC
49# @ 26.75"
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Offline George D. Stout

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Re: What should I do?
« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2010, 12:35:00 AM »
"Nothing wrong with striving to obtain optimum arrow flight to increase the likelihood of better penetration on game and, ultimately, a short blood trail and quick recovery."


No, but there is nothing wrong with not bareshaft testing arrows.  I have never done it and can acquire perfect arrow flight.  There is nothing I hunt or shoot at without feathers, so I fletch my arrows, then I tune them.  It works very well and will accomplish anything bareshafting will.

There is always more than one way to accomplish a task.  Frankly, I think we are creating more jobs for therapists then we are creating good archers.
You do not need to bareshaft your arrows/shafts to get great tuning and perfect arrow flight.  

Anyone who wishes to see how us old pharts have managed over the decades, please contact me and we can get together on how it's done....simply, effectively.

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