Force curve, stack and all that...

[jhg]

So I am looking at a new bow that is over my budget, but I think its a great bow for me. At my draw it is adding 3#'s an inch past 28".  I can't test it, and  I know the adage ' test it first" so my eyes are wide open.

What do you think?  Is 3#'s an inch within the smooth window? Or should I keep looking for a bow that is smoother? I mean, whats the big diff between 2.5 and 3? Can we even tell? Its a rare bow that offers less than 2.5 an inch after 28 right, or am I wrong about that?


Thanks

Joshua

[mooseman76]

I don't think that 3# per inch is stacking at all.  In fact, I'd venture to say that is pretty close to what most hunting weight bows pull before the magic stacking point.  On the f-d curves pay attention to the amount of weight at the beginning of the draw cycle.  Bows with more preload or weight in the beginning may not feel as smooth to you (I prefer that feel).

There are other things to consider, though, that you can't get from a f-d curve. Finger pinch is very subjective and only the individual can determine that for his/herself.  Grip is another thing that needs to be felt firsthand, IMO.  Anyway, I won't go into the other hundred things that point to testing as your question was about the pull (sorry for getting off track).  But yeah, 3# per inch is pretty good...Mike

[Jesse Peltan]

3# per inch is average.  More is stacky, less is smooth.  This is for a bow that's 60#@30in.  What was the draw weight of the bow tested that you wanted to get?  If it's less than 60#@30in and pulling 3# per inch it's stacking.  If it's more than that it's smooth.  You should be able to tell the difference between 3# and 2.5# per inch.

[jhg]

Originally posted by mooseman76:
...There are other things to consider, though, that you can't get from a f-d curve....

...Mike

Thanks Mike. I know. All I am going on is what I know about my own preferences and the bow fullfills them. At least in theory anyway. Maybe I will be out shipping both ways if worst comes to worst.
The only reaason I got hung up on the 3#'s was a post on another forum where a guy mentions that 3#'s is a danger sign that the bow is stacking. Since the bow is expensive for me my house of cards fell down and I started to second guess the decision to get it.

Jesse, the bow is 58#'s @ 30"

Joshua

[jhg]

I should mention my Damon Howatt hunter is 2.5#'s an inch after 28 and is right at 60#'s @ 30. Maybe I should keep the bird in hand...

[Jesse Peltan]

58#@30 is really close to 60.  3# per inch would be very average for that.  If the bow is expensive you might want to look for something else.  What were your other reasons for wanting to get it?  If it has other good qualities then it might be worth it but if it's average everywhere you might want to get a different bow.  What was the bow you were looking at?

[jhg]

Cari-bow Peregrine.

[CUJO]

Abe's bows are top notch. Very smooth and beautiful to look at to boot and also backed up with a good warranty. I would recommend talking to the bowyer about your concerns and let him help you with the input.  He may recommend a different length or woods than you may have thought of in order for you to get what you want.

When you look at bows, besides price, look at the bowyers  warranties, and feedback from others and maybe resale values . A good bow won't be on the market long and should hold most of their value.

Marc

[Jeff Cooper]

I was recently told by a very reputable bowyer that if you divide a bow's total draw weight by 20, it will give you a very accurate amount of increase per inch of draw. I.E. 60# bow divided by 20 = 3#/inch.

[James Wrenn]

3lbs would not be considered bad on a 60lb bow.The same 3lbs would not be desirable on a 45lb however.Heavier bows have to draw more weight per inch to build up more weight in the same draw length.The heavier the bow the more weight it has to build.The same is true for short draw bows.They have less distance to gain weight than those built for longer draws.They will always be tighter to get there. jmo