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wooden arrows

Started by samickhunter, April 17, 2010, 08:29:00 PM

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samickhunter

g'day all

i am having trouble sorting out what spine wood arrows i need for my bow.the bow is a samick phantom recurve 55#@28.its 50#@ my draw length of 26"i would like to use 125gr and/or 145gr broadheads for pigs and goats.im thinking 60/65 woods if anyone has any suggestions or use the same sort of set up i would greatly appreciate some opinions

cheers mick

Looper

Go to this link and download the spine calculator.   http://heilakka.com/stumiller/

You'll need to input your specs and it will give you a pretty close starting point.  The one area to not overlook is the amount of cut your arrow rest has.  You'll also need to know what type of string you're using.

ron w

I would say that 55/60 @ 28+" with 125 0r 145 up front would be pretty close. You have to mess with the final length.
In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities. In the expert's there are few...So the most difficult thing is always to keep your beginner's mind...This is also the real secret of the arts: always be a beginner.  Shunryu Suzuki

samickhunter

thanks looper i already have it mate
in the box under amo static spine
it says shaft grains per inch (gpi)what do i put in there i have been putting in 10gpi not sure if that is correct thanks for the feed back looper

cheers mick

samickhunter

thanks for the reply ron will have a go at that

hkmp5

Hello Mick,
For the GPI, in that spine range I would go with 12 for Sitka Spruce, 13 for Cedar, and 14 for Fir.  That should get you close for a finished shaft GPI.  I hope it helps you out!
-Stu

Fletcher

Mick, 13 or 14 gpi be close enuf.  Wood shaft weight varies a lot between types and even within a species.

How deep the shelf is cut will make a difference with your spine needs.  60-65's cut to 28" BOP should work if the bow is cut to center. You  will probably need to go up a bit if cut deeper.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

samickhunter

thanks guys this is valuable info does anyone bare shaft their woods
cheers mick

hkmp5

Hello Mick,
Personally, I do not bare shaft woodies.  I will sometimes paper tune at varied distances but usually trust the eye and point of impact at long distances.
-Stu

samickhunter

thanks stu i have tried bare shafting but it seems most dangerous thing to do at times

fletcher the bow is cut past centre i shoot off the shelf with a fur rest

Fletcher

You may need to go a little stiffer or shorter then, Mick.  When we start adding up a few variable factors like arrow length and depth of cut, the formulas become less precise.  If possible, find or buy a few arrows in progressive spines and paper tune them with the point weight you want to shoot.  You will soon know exactly what spine range you need.  Such a set of test arrows is very valuable to someone who shoots different bows.  I have a bunch of test arrows that I loan out, but the shipping to and from would kill you.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

samickhunter

fletcher i have some test arrows but unfortunately they on go up to 50/55
but working on the formula of
50#plus 5#=55
centre cut shelf add 5#=60
fastflyte string add 5#=65
takeaway 10# cause im 2"shorter than 28"
comes back to 60
im taking that on a 125gr b/h if i was using 145gr and up i would add on another 5#
but in saying do i go for the 55/60 or 60/65 woods
cheers mick

Bjorn

Making good woodies takes time and effort why would you not take a moment to bareshaft and make sure the flight of the finished arrow will be as good as it gets.

Bowferd

Bjorn,
When I first started with woodies I bare shaft tuned but became wary and disgusted because I was breaking them at a record pace.
My inexperience was costing me $'s.
Stubborn fool that at times I have a tendency to be, I refused to seek wisdom. Kinda like a guy asking for directions when he's lost.  :help:  
Since then I've found guidance.
Thanks especially to you and others like Don Stokes, I now use a softer target for bareshafting woodies.
There was absolutely no way to afford bareshafting wood before.
  :notworthy:
Been There, Done That, Still Plowin.
Cane and Magnolia tend to make good arrow.
Hike naked in the backwoods.

samickhunter

bjorn i probably will bare shaft i know nothing about bare shafting i have heard some people do it some dont bother some have had a shaft that wont shoot bare but put feathers and a point on and it flies perfect but in saying that bjorn i am after the perfect arrow b/h combination for this bow i was the same when i was rifle shooting if i couldnt get 5 shots in the size of a thumb nail at 100yards it wasnt good enough
cheers mick


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