Can anybody help me???

[Rock Crusher]

I can't get my arrows to fly right to save my life. I shoot LEFT HANDED and I shoot a Kohannah Kurve recurve 49# @ 29" and my draw length is 29" it's cut within an 1/8" of center. I've got my nock point about 3/8" above center with a nock point above and below the arrow.

I am using CX Heritage 150 arrows cut to 30". I have tried point weights from 100 grains all the way up to 225grains. They always wobble side to side no matter what. Once in a while I'll get a couple nice ones but very seldom. 125grain points seem to work the best even though the spine calculator shows they are plenty stiff. When I bare shaft 100 - 125 flies the nicest at 25 yards. Anything over that shoots off to the left and nosedives about the time it gets to the target. I have adjusted nock point and brace height until I'm blue in the face and nothing seems to help. I always try to do one thing at a time so I can tell if it made any difference. If I can't figure something out I'm about ready to build a fire.

[Jack Whitmire Jr]

Try hertiage 90's , I feel your arrows are WAY to stiff . I used to shoot the 90's all the way up to 54# .


Jack

[SL]

sometimes when your brace is too low that will happen also.
I think at that draw length and arrow length you might be weak shaft. If you have some fletched arrows put a big two blade broadhead on one and shoot. That will tell you the same thing the bareshaft will and will be easier for the eye to see.
SL

[rastaman]

 

They always wobble side to side no matter what.

Might be a release issue also.  And i would try up to 300gr up front with that shaft.  i don't bareshaft but i do use a big ol' 2 bladed broadhead to tune.

[stickbowmaniac]

i woulsd also say it could be a release issue

[fz4vgq]

I've become a Stu's Calculator junkie since the other day  

Puting your numbers in I'm getting 55.0 for your dynamic spine on the arrows with a 145gr point weight.

Entering 1/8th" from center for your strike plate position, 49#@29" & 12 strand fast flight string I get a required spine of 52.8 so it doesn't seem too far off ? with a B50 string I get a required spine of 49. What kind of string are you using ? Did you weigh the bare shafts or spine test them to compare the actual weight/spine reading to the stated weight/spine reading ?  I have heard that every once in awhile a batch of arrows gets out the door mismarked.

[Killdeer]

I have two dozen  Heritage 150 arrows. They spine very differently from each other. The first batch I bought shot very well from three of my bows, (I have a short 26.5" draw, and the bows are about 46 at that draw.)

So... I bought another dozen. They are so stiff that even with a hundred grain insert, a 250 grain field point and left full length, I can't use them.

I went to CE 90's, which seemed a hair weak, needed smaller nocks and inserts, and could not use the standard size whizbangs with which to tweak weight and nock styles.

I just found Gold Tips.
Aahhhhhhhhhhh!
Killdeer

[Jake Fr]

take one of your nock points off i think it might be hanging up your release are you shooting split or 3 under

[Rock Crusher]

I shoot split finger and fastflight string. I just put the lower nock point on this morning because I thought maybe the arrow was sliding down the string and bouncing off the shelf but it didn't seem to make any difference.

As far as the shaft being to weak it's already flying off to the left. Isn't that a weak spine for  left handed shooter? Thanks for all the info I too thought about a release issue but I haven't figured out a way to remove that from the equasion to tell for sure.

[Mike Bolin]

Rock Crusher, I am not sure where Nappanee is exactly, but if you ever get down towards Terre Haute, give me a shout. I shoot lefty, split finger as well and I reckon we could figure something out.
Just for the heck of it, try raising your nock point to 9/16" or 1/2". Set the brace height at 7 1/2" to 7 5/8" and see what you get. If you shoot three fletch, try shooting cock feather in, or rotate the nock until you have optimal feather clearance.
If you get down this way, drop me a pm and let me know you're comin'! Mike

[Cyclic-Rivers]

It's the bow. Might as well send it my way!    

Good luck once you figure it out you will be very pleased.

[Friends call me Pac]

How tight are the nocks on the string?  I like to use a fingernail file and file away the material on the insides of the "ears" of the nock.  

I put my bow in my lap with the string facing up towards my chin.  I nock the arrow and without touching the bow I see if I can pick the bow up by the arrow.  If the arrow slips off before the bow moves they are good to go.  If the bow is lifted by the arrow it needs a little more filing.

Just something to try with what you already have before buying something else

I shoot 51@28" and my CE 150s are 29.5".  My tips are 125 gr and they shoot fine.

[Bowferd]

You must understand  that what I am about to spout is just my personal opinion. I'm by no means an expert.
Throw away the carbons. Toss the aluminum aside.
Contrary to popular belief, some of us are just meant to shoot woodies.
I will raise the wrath of Khan on this one, but follow me along for just a bit.
If you are trully devoted to traditional archery, come along with me.
Find yourself some sticks. I'd suggest 50 to 80#
We'll work on this together.
Start at 10 steps from the target. From what you've told us, that would be 9 yards.
Proceed to shoot target with 2 bare shafts and 2 fletched  shaft.
And belive me 4 arrowa is enough.
Do it 10 times and send me some pictures after each grouping.
For some reason I believe that you have just become too technical.
It really is pretty simple. The old KISS method still works and makes it fun.
I had a perfect shot tonight when I got home from about 25 yards.
Went dead on but right under her belly (Damn Ducks)
Luck to You,
Fred

[eric-thor]

seems everyone has a desent point .  i personally think most flight problems are a short between your hat and your handel. aka form/our shooting ... finding the most forgiving setup is great but the bow and arrows can be perfect and we can screw up a shot at anytime.


hope im not comming off sarcastic . just personal experience .

[Rock Crusher]

I have seriously thought about going to wood arrows trust me. I beginning to think to it's a form issue but I can't seem to get anything to work or improve it. I've sanded open nocks so they aren't so tight and everything and I always have the same problem.

Mike I'd love to shoot with you but you are about 3hrs from me and I very rarely get down there.

[Mike Most]

Try one more thing, if you would in your shooting. Its hard to explain, but, try pulling conciously with back tension, and keeping your form pulling straight behind the bow, (best way to say it).

I had issues the same way with a long bow and it took me a long time to figure out it was a pure form issue for me. (my 2 cents)

Good luck

Mike

[Smallwood]

try this....

 http://www.acsbows.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/tuninglongbowsandrecurves.pdf

 

[metsastaja]

[eric-thor]

have you tried a book or video ... i here Master of the bare bow . is the one to invest in .they have all three at threee rivers for like 60$

[eric-thor]

i personally dont care what you shoot iv shot all three kinds of shafting the all work great if matched to your bow. i mostly shoot aluminum,woods:any kind of wood .aluminum bends,wood breaks .shoot well: they all last forever.