Got a weight problem

[gudspelr]

Good news/bad news.  Good news is I scored a dozen carbon GT 5575's for only $35.  Bad news is they ended up having the stock inserts already glued in.  They're right about 30" long-was planning to have them about 29.5", so I'm not too worried there, but I really wanted to put in some 100 grain brass inserts.

Archery shop guy said you can't use heat to get the inserts out with carbons-it'll mess them up.  Can't cut them out as they go back farther than the 29.5" I'd want.  Other good ideas out there?  I'm shooting a 63# R/D longbow and was hoping to stay around 600 grain arrows (the 10 gpp rule).  I've heard of folks using weed wacker line inside for extra weight, other weighted inserts to screw into the ones that are already in there?  Also thought I could try and foot all of them which would give the added plus of strength, but how much weight does that actually add?  Your thoughts...?        

Jeremy

[Over&Under]

What I always do is put a field point in them and heat the point up hot enough to heat the insert.  That way the flame stays off the carbon, but you can still get the glue hot enough to release.  

Just take it slow and you should be fine.

[Eugene Slagle]

Originally posted by Over&Under:
What I always do is put a field point in them and heat the point up hot enough to heat the insert.  That way the flame stays off the carbon, but you can still get the glue hot enough to release.  

Just take it slow and you should be fine.

I've done that my self a cupple of time but it depends on the type of glue that was used too.

Another thing to do "if you're going to refletch em" is to cut 1/2" off the rear of the shaft & then use screw in weights like what PDP & others sell, get the weight that you want up front, reinstall the nock, relfetch & there ya go.

[JRY309]

Adding 100 gr. brass inserts will affect your spine.You can add weight tubes to increase overall weight without affecting spine very much.The method I use to remove inserts first is to remove the nock.Then get a drill bit the fits inside the shaft and then whip the shaft towards the floor knocking out the insert like a slide hammer.I like to wad a up a blanket to catch the insert and bit when they coming flying out.You can also try putting in a field point and heating the point and then pull out the insert.Sometimes depending on what was used to glue them in,nothing short of cutting your shaft shorter will get them out.

[Zradix]

Originally posted by Over&Under:

Just take it slow and you should be fine.

!!!NO flame to the carbon!!!!

[Over&Under]

[Matt_Potter]

Take the nock out and insert a drill bit that just fits in the shaft.  If you whip the shaft forward the force will drive the bit down the shaft and blow the insert out.  Put the drill bit in backwards so you don't ruin a good bit.  It might take several tries but, it will work.

Matt

[Richie Nell]

2117 footing is 12 gr./in.  It may also stiffen arrow.  If so you can add more tip weight and get higher FOC, if interested.

Pa lenty of options.

[Bowhuntah]

Why not just use a screw in steel adapter to add weight to the front. Then bareshaft test. Just trim off the nock end alittle bit at a time until they fly straight and then refletch.

[gudspelr]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys-exactly what I was hoping for.  Another helpful guy on here suggested the 5575's with 100 grn brass inserts for my setup-my first go at all this.

Richie- I've been told the heavier inserts would affect the spine-think some 2117 footings 1 or 1 1/2" long would bring it back stiffer?  I'm hoping for decent FOC from everything I've read here, one of the main reasons for wanting the inserts...

Thanks again

Jeremy

[ozy clint]

what point weight are you using? my 55/75's are just over 31" long. with a 250gr point and 100gr insert they weigh 620gr. they fly great out of my 54# 'curve.

they should be close to 600gr by the time you shorten them for your heavier bow.

[metsastaja]

Originally posted by Matt_Potter:
Take the nock out and insert a drill bit that just fits in the shaft.  If you whip the shaft forward the force will drive the bit down the shaft and blow the insert out.  Put the drill bit in backwards so you don't ruin a good bit.  It might take several tries but, it will work.

Matt

I have used this method with great success. Be you careful and check after each whip action or you may end up with the bit and insert flying around the room.

[Richie Nell]

Jeremy,
I agree. The weight of the 100 gr. insert will weaken the arrow.  The 2117 footing will  stiffen the spine. But being so short I think the affect will be minimal. I think it will take at least 2".

The quickest way to increase FOC is to add weight as far in front of the balance point
as possible (in front of arrow), then the footing (on top of insert), then weight behind the insert (closest to balance point).
In that order.

[gudspelr]

Clint-
I wasn't certain about the point weight, but was leaning towards some 145 grn tips.  I've seen some guys using much heavier tips, like you.  Looks like I'll be drawing about 9 lbs more than you-if I went with something very similar to your setup, do you think the spine would end up too weak for the heavier draw?  If so, maybe a little lighter tips with some more weight behind the insert?

Thanks

Jeremy

[Rackman]

I've also removed inserts, put a field point in the end and heat this up slowly and using a pair of pliers pull on the point until the insert comes out, only little spurts of heat at a time.  If you over heat, the carbon will unravel as you pull the insert out.

[Tom-Wisconsin]

Has anyone tried taking an arrow with a field tip 100 gr. and putting the tip in a vice. Then while you heat up the field tip. Pull on the arrow. This will allow only enough heat to melt the epoxy.

[excelpoint]

You certainly dont want to put direct flame on carbon but heating a field tip will break almost any glue bonds without hurting the carbon except heat reactive type glue(couldnt see too many people using that for inserts) As stated by others, just take your time.

[excelpoint]

Originally posted by Tom-Wisconsin:
Has anyone tried taking an arrow with a field tip 100 gr. and putting the tip in a vice. Then while you heat up the field tip. Pull on the arrow. This will allow only enough heat to melt the epoxy.

The only problem with that is the vice will act as a heat sink drawing the heat out of thwe tip making the process a little longer.

[pdk25]

When you heat the field point, I think that rather than trying to pull it strait out, try to twist(tighten) the field tip.  You can usually get the glue bond to break at a lower temp, with less risk of damage to the carbon.

If you are gonna use the drill bit method, try putting the arrow in the freezer.  I think it makes the glue bond more brittle and easier to break.  That being said, depending on the type of epoxy that was used, you may never get the bond to break.  It's probably easier with 5/16 shafts, but the axis/mfx arrows only allow a pretty small drill bit that doesn't have much weight behind it.

[gudspelr]

Thanks for all the advice.  I decided on the drill bit method, as I don't trust myself too much with open flames...  And wouldn't you know, you guys were right!  The drill bit punched those little buggers right out of there without any problems.

I put in the 100 grain inserts, fletched 6 of them up and just killed my first inanimate object-a 32 oz cup at about 15 yards!  One was even a clean pass through