Brand new here, and need some help.

[GraniteStater]

A little background on me, I'm 27 years old and grew up doing a bit of scouting/hunting with my father until I was about 12 or so.  I never developed much of a shot or too much of an interest in hunting at that time.  A few years go by and at 19 my father passes, and I still have no interest in hunting, archery.  8 years more and I land at 27 years old, almost 28 now and I moved out into the country and actually have the desire to develope a solid shot and maybe go out and scout/hunt.  Unfortunately I don't have the direction of my father anymore, or any of his gear..but I do have the desire and I purchased myself a bow...

I'm hoping this is where you guys can help me, I'll probably have quite a few questions and seem clueless.  My first will start with this, I now own a Martin Mamba 55@28 that is 58"  I enjoy shooting it and the groups are coming bit by bit as I develope a measure of consistency.  But I'm not quite satisfied with the bow, I've shot a howatt hunter that is 60# and I prefer the way it shoots to mine, just that it's a little heavy for my taste.  

My long winded post/question is almost done!  I just sold a Polaris Ranger that was collecting dust mostly. And I set aside about 1,000$ give or take for purchasing a bow that I can use for years to come, here is the question part...

What do you suggest for a smooth drawing, quiet recurve that can double for target/3d and also be taken hunting?  I prefer recurve one pieces, but may look into takedowns.  Any tips/suggestions will help me alot, I'm fairly clueless but trying to learn more.

[lpcjon2]

I shoot longbows ,but I just got the Bear Kodiac special from the pass around and I am amazed at how smooth and accurate it is.I would suggest getting a not so expensive used bow from the TG classifieds after you have gotten your form down.It doesn't matter what bow you have or how smooth,heavy,fast,pretty,or expensive it is.If you do not have good shooting form you will not shoot for ****!Take what you have and get the arrows and heads matched rite and practice and become proficient with that then go to a few shoots and test some bows out.It's just my opinion

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I would suggest you shoot as many bows as you can before dropping the cash on a new one.

 You can check out the classifieds here and look for something to try. You can't post your bow for trade until you have established yourself here or would suggest you do some trading but if you join in the post and ask lots of questions and get all you can from here it won't take long.

 I've only been a member a short while and have found this site to be THE BEST cyber campfire around. You won't find a better bunch of guys anywhere. They are always willing to help and give advice. I've been into trad for about five years and I have learned more here in the last year than the first several years combined.

 Welcome to the Gang and enjoy the journey,

 Stiks

[rastaman]

If there is anyway you can shoot some other bows before buying that would be the route to go.  $1000 will buy a whole lotta custom bow or several used ones.
i've owned a bunch of bows, and the ones i didn't like were either because they were too heavy for me (draw weight) or i didn't like the grip.  i wouldn't put that kind of money into a bow until i knew what my preferences were. Good advice above.

[GraniteStater]

Sounds good, is there a section here to find out about shoots?  Or should I look at the local bow shop?

[arrowslinger22]

My advice is to look at RER bows.  They are a sponsor here and make several different designs.  Great bows and better people you won't find.

[rastaman]

If your local bow shop caters to traditional that is where i would go.  If not, i wouldn't ask for advice.  Usually THEY can tell you if there are any other traditional guys around that could help you out.  If the local shop has some traditional bows in stock, ask if you can shoot them.

[GraniteStater]

I'll probably take more time, I've been trying to absorb as much information as I can for the last few weeks (as far as looking for a bow I'm satisfied with).  I have been shooting the mamba for a bit over 2 months, but obviously still developing my shot.  

Do you think the 'test drive a widow' would be worth trying?  Or do you think I'm jumping the gun in trying something so expensive out?

And thanks for the warm welcome, Ben

[GraniteStater]

My local shop caters almost totally to compound shooters (my father used to call them 'training wheels', not sure if that's offensive or not).  

I'll have to ask em down there if there are any traditional clubs or gatherings.

[smokin joe]

GraniteStater,
First, welcome to the group. This is a place where you can find the help and mentoring you need. I am sorry to hear about the loss of your father.
The search for a perfectly matched bow, arrow, shooter combination can be long -- it will also be interesting, with many things to learn along the way.
My advice to you now is to stick with the 55# Mamba for now, and work on your arrows and your shooting.
If you are shooting wood arrows, you will be surprised by the change that 1/4 inch of arrow length, or 5# of spine difference,  will give you. Experiment with shooting 3-under and split finger.
You will find your own way, as we all eventually do with traditional archery.

Little things, like working on your anchor, will make a big difference; and often big changes, like a different bow, will sometimes make very little difference.

I wish you the best. Stick with TradGang. There is a lot of good information here.
Joe

[sagebrush]

I wouldn't spend a bunch on a custom bow until you have been shooting quite a while. You won't be able to tell the difference. There are a lot of used bows that I think would work for you. The Martin (Howatt is the same bow)Hunter is a good one if you like one piece. I like the Hatfield a little better because the extra weight makes it a little easier for me to shoot. Pick a weight to shoot that you can hold back for 3-4 seconds without a big struggle. You will shoot better and it will be more fun. This isn't about trying to shoot heavier bows than the next guy. Your draw length will make a difference too. The Mamba is a good bow but if you have a real long draw you might be better served with a longer bow. Gary

[GraniteStater]

All great advice, thanks.  I'm going to head up to my local bow shop with my brother and see if there are any recurves collecting dust that I can test.  And I'll focus on solidifying my shot before making a large purchase.  Right now I draw about 28" and ancher on my canine tooth with my middle finger (split finger).  But I find my stance/aiming method changing weekly, I only group out to about 15y, so my shot is'nt solid.  Thanks for the welcome again!

[Killdeer]

Check out the Trad Events forum here for shoot information. Also, see if there is a trad archery club in your state that would have that info.

Killdeer

[Mudd]

I don't think I can add anything new of value to you right now as you have received some solid advice. IMHO

I want to welcome you to tradgang. It's by most opinion the "Best" traditional archery site going.

Start slowly and enjoy the journey with the rest of us.

God bless,Mudd

[David Mitchell]

If at all possible try to get down to Coudersport, PA in July for the Eastern Traditional Archery Rendezvous.  You will see and get to try all sorts of bows at all sorts of prices and there is a huge blanket sale every evening with hundreds of used bows and other gear at good prices.  I think you are starting a bit too heavy for one starting out.  I would much rather see you shooting 45#.  In fact, lots of guys who have been shooting a long time are dropping down in weight because it is easier to maintain good form and not wear yourself out and develop bad habits.  Don't let anybody tell you should shoot Brand X bow--everybody has their favorite, but one's man's dream bow will not work for others.  Try as many as possible and remember that there are a lot of fine bows that will not cost an arm and leg and will shoot right along with those that do   .

[vermonster13]

How far from Rutland Vermont are you? We have some 3D shoots coming up, I have a cellar full of bows, arrows and everything else. I would be more than happy to help you with the learning curve, let you try a bunch of bows and even take you out for some hunting. PM me if you're interested.

[Shakes.602]

WELCOME TO TRADGANG!!  BETTER PEOPLE YOU WILL NEVER FIND, AND I BET YOU WILL CATCH ON FAST!!          

[gudspelr]

I'm really new to this all, too.  What I can tell you is what some others have already said-this site is full of amazingly giving people who truly want to just help however they can.  If I were you, I'd take vermonster up on his offer!!!  I'm starting to wish I lived over that direction   .  There's absolutely nothing like those who've 'been there done that' being willing to show you the way to go.

Welcome and have fun    

Jeremy

[GraniteStater]

Thanks a ton for all the advice.  I just finished up shooting.  Got to shoot that howatt hunter again, wow does that bow shoot straight and smooth.  It also has a quiver strapped to it, which makes it a bit heavier, but helped me to keep my shots straighter.  

I do have some bad news though, a buddy of mine took a look at my mamba today, I told him my arrows were doing an odd up and down and kind of cork screw motion out at 20 yards and beyond.  (I thought it was my release or something in my form).  He shot it and then looked at the bow, turns out I have a twisted limb.  I dropped my bow about a week ago, and it has progressively shot worse and I thought it was my form.

Anyway, I have to take my bow back to the Kittery Trading post and then they'll send it to Martin. There is no way I can be months without a bow. So I guess my hunt for a new bow may be happening sooner than I'd like.

Rutland is about 2 hr 45 min away, I'm in Southern NH.  Maybe I'll try to make a trek out there sometime when things are'nt as busy.  I think testing a few different types out would do me some good.

[sloaf]

My suggestion is hold off on the bow a year, work on tuning your arrows to your bow first.  This can be quite a headache but is a good skill to have.  If you are without a bow search the local C****list for a Bear or Browning to get you bye.  Buying a 700-1000 dollar bow is a rare chance and the more experience with archery the more you'll know and develop opinions on what you like and therefore get a better fit.  Martins are nice but some of the customs are fantastic.  It will take some time before the differences in bows will be very evident. You'll like the feeling of one over another but you need to know why.

 If your hot and bothered for a new bow, Go to a big show with lots of vendors.  Take someone along with a lot of custom bows in their collection to explain their thoughts to you on each bows merits.  If you can drive to Comptons traditional shoot, flat out do it. Being at shows lets you see bows side to side, take test drives, and the cream really rises to the top.  You'll make a better informed decision.

 Personally I went from a martin, to a chek-mate and am now shooting a Rose Oak.  Each bow has been an improvement over the last but there has been plenty of thought put into each choice.  My biggest education on bowyers has been from going to Compton and the Kalamazoo shows for the past 5 years.

Also there are serial bowaholics on here that are well versed and can help you make the choice.  In my mind there are maybe 10-12 really premier bowyers I'd love to do business with.

Good to have another guy in his 20's on here.  Welcome to the forum.