Carbon Express Tuning

[Gator1]

I got my New Kanati last week, and picked up a couple of CX150 shafts.

Weight: 52lbs at 28"
Drawing 27.5"..
Shoot right handed.

I'm still nock left with a bare 150 cut down to a hair over 29", and that is with just the insert, no extra weight.

As far as tuning, i"m strictly shooting a bareshaft, not alternating between fletched and unfletched shafts, as O.L's method.

Am I going to need to go to the 250's.. With a little weight.

From everything I have read the CX150's should be the right arrow.

Am I doing something wrong??

Thanks.

[Golden Hawk]

what weight point?

[Gator1]

Sorry,

125 Grain tip, just a standard insert.. No weight added...

[Golden Hawk]

Gator Ideally you want just a little bit of nock left but not alot. Depending on how serious your nock left is I'd fletch 1 arrow and se how it flys.

[Gator1]

Golden Hawk,

Wouldn't nock left mean Weak???

I assumed to tune, slightly stiff, or nock right...

[Golden Hawk]

You want a little nock left. the feathers will act to stiffen the arrow(stablize). This is what you want to end up with for best flight.

[M60gunner]

I have 2 sets of CE`s. One dz. are 150`s. I shoot them out of 3 different weight bows(55lb wallace longbow, Bear takedown recurve 55lb., and a Pete George staight limb longbow 64lb.) just by changing the weight of my tips or broadheads. I am looking for 9-10grains per pound of bow weight. What weight are you looking to have for a complete arrow? Yes, the bareshafts were nock left. My only reason for buying 250`s was length. The broadheads hit the shelf on my Bear takedown. The 150`s are 28 1/2in long. I cut my 250`s to 29 1/4. I am using the inserts that came with the shafts but use nock inserts as I like glue on nocks. You might have to do some rethinking with carbons as I have and go radical one way or another to find what`s best for you.

[MikeC]

What GW said is correct.  Your bareshafts should be slightly weak for the reasons he mentioned plus in hunting situations an archer has a tendancy to slightly under-draw than over-draw so your better off with hunting arrows on the weak side.

[BigHink66]

Doesn't the method OL describes, use both fletched and unfletched shafts and you read the way they group in relationship to each other to determine how to tune.

[thorn]

I believe that if your groups of bare shafts are left of your fletched shafts, that your arrows are too STIFF.  You might consider adding weight to the tip to move their point of impact to the right.

[Gator1]

The OL Adcock methodolgy, does requite fletched and un-fletched shafts.

I'm using just a plain bare shaft. Not comparing to fletched shafts at all...

I have heard, that with adding a broadhead, it weakens the spine some, and to be a little nock right with filed tips???

I wish I had the dough to experiment and cut fletched and un fletched shafts, but it is not possible.  Thanks for all the feedback..

[jeff / sc]

I'm shooting both a Widow PL and Tomahawk, both 50# @28 and drawing 27".  My 150's are also cut just a little over 29" using the 50 gr brass insert and a 250 gr point. This gives me pretty arrow flight and the arrow weight I was looking for.

[katman]

To know for sure you should fletch an arrow at the same length and shoot both. Pay attention to the impact point of both arrows and not the nock of the bare shaft. Shooting only a bareshaft gets you close imo. You still should have about a half inch to play with if your still weak, and carbon will stiffen a lot with 1/2 inch trim. Different bows/strings/nocks/feathers/points/how one releases as well as poundage, brace height, nock height and draw length all play a part in shaft tunning so what works for one may not work for another.