This jig works great, if you do your part. Like every jig, it takes a little fiddling around to get it.
Although I would not repair an arrow in the mid section, it is great to use. Although, the guy who designed it uses repaired arrows like this all the time and he repairs em all over the shaft. It makes buying top of the line wood arrows so much more econimical in the long run.
If you use a black locust footing, your cedars will become much tougher. Compared to a 4 wing-footing, my cedar arrows footed with a footing like this behind the point makes the ferrule of field points split open if I hit something real hard like a steel post or concrete block.I still have 2 doz custom cedar arrows from 1999 out of a 3 doz. lot and 20 of the 24 carry a locust footing behind the point. They're as good as ever. I have the complete jig here in my home with all accessories. The lineup is easy, because there is a V-groove alignment in the tool. I field tested that tool and incorporated my ideas in the final design. I had it at Cloverdale at the kids bow give-away,too.
The repair joint is much stronger than any other method. Being an engineer I calculated a lot of joints. And you can order it direct from DiFis Engineering if you want one, saving you some retail markup. Me and my Dad and some friends are using that repair method for more than 10 years. If you have a lathe you can just order the conical drill,too. Everything is available seperate as well.
Van/TX method also work, but if you hit something real hard, these footing tend to splinter. The footing joint here, if it breaks, breaks clear like a normal shaft behind the point, allowing for another repair.
Topic: If you ever broke a wood arrow this looks interesting (Read 1221 times)
