Mountain Bikes for HUNTING....

[Terry Green]

I put down a lot of boot leather, but I have some of the public spots I like to access that have had gates put up due to the economy and less patrol I suppose.  

I walk a long way from the truck to start with, and now its gonna add an hour to hour and a half to get to some of these spots.....and that's gonna keep me out of them this fall on my weekday late afternoon hunts.  That means I WONT be able to hunt some of those spots cause I can't get there in time....SO......

I have been intrigued ever since seeing Cory Mattson on his bike with a porker strapped on the rack.  And I think this might be the ticket.

I'm sure you could spend a small fortune on a bike if you wanted to, or were really into mountain bikes.....but I sure don't want to go 'whole hog' - pardon the pun.

Anyone know much about Mountain Bikes and how much a good durable bike would cost?.....I guess this is normal...I'm looking for SMOOTH riding most of all, easy gear changing, and maneuverability/agility.  Cargo rack for a Pack and definitely a light on the front cause I'll reach the bike way after dark.

Oh...I've seen some with front shock absorbers...do they also come with rear shocks?  How about a front rack as well as a rear.

[Apex Predator]

I've been buying a $100 wallyworld model EVERY year Terry.  I'm ready to spend a little more next time and hopefully get more use out of it.  I think you will probably have to accessorize it with after market racks.  I have an old child carrier frame that I built a platform on for the back cargo.  Maybe find you one at a yard sale cheap.

 

[Chris Surtees]

Here is the bike I currently use...it has done real well for me. Basically it is a good entry level bike.

It comes with the front suspension fork but not rear. When you start getting into the suspension in the rear price goes up for the most part.

Racks can be bought separately. I have not looked into a front rack but do have a rear on mine.

 http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/rincon.black/3873/36247/

[huntin_sparty]

Terry
You can go 1 or 2 ways
1)I not sure how much different in GA but here in MI on craigslist you can get when new $500-700 mountain bikes that will last a long time whatever you do to em for $200-350 bucks.  Giant, Trek Specialized.
2) buy the cheapo $150-200 wally world model that will not last as long.
You want front shocks for certain and they do make a full suspension bike with rear suspension.
The full suspension (which I have) is good and bad
good over bumpy stuff I and my equipment is not jolted as much.
Bad - harder to get going some momentum lost in the suspension, not as many solid mounting options if you attach a deer cart or remodel a child carrier to a huntin cart versus the solid rear frame.
Hope this helped some.

[Chris Surtees]

Here is a link for racks.

 http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/BikePages/Pages/MainBikes.html

[T Folts]

I would look into a pull behing cart like they use for kids, they have large wheels and pull easy. You could pull out your game alot easier then on a bike rack.
Terry

[AZ_Shooter]

These may be kind of expensive, but they are bar none one of the best ways I have found to haul a significant amount of weight on a mountain bike:

 http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicycles/freeradical-cargo-bicycle.html

It allows you to convert almost any standard mountain bike to a long wheelbase with a fairly substantial area for hauling goods and game.  All you need to do is find a good mountain bike, preferably steel framed, which can be had for $100.  Purchase the conversion kit, and away you go.

I love hunting with a mountain bike.  It gives me the ability to haul what I need to, and still be quiet and enjoy nature.

[huntin_sparty]

Here is what the full suspension looks like and the one I have but mine is black.

 http://riverfrontcycle.com/images/library/large/giant_canyon_05_m.jpg

[JAG]

I usually find a good bike at a Pawn Shop.  Be sure you know what you want, when shpponig at the Pawn Shop.  Couple years ago I picked up a matched pair of Mtn. Bikes for a little over $100.00.  They were in excellent shape.  Added a rear rack, front removable basket,I added baloon tires(help in grass and sand) and a BIG SEAT!
(those small racing seats are very uncomfortable)Couple cans of dull paint to camo, and you're set to go.
Just remember, if you're hunting public land, a chain and lock are a good idea.  I also carry an orange piece of plastic to cover the game when headed out.  If its too big to tie on the rack, you can drape it over the whiole bike and walk beside it.  Lots of different ways to do it.  I have also used a tye of travois.
Happy Hunting.
JAG/Johnny

[Slasher]

Terry,

When it comes to bikes it is sorta like bows... They're made outta the same stuff...

Some you get much nicer stuff... I'd say just look for decent quality in the derrailers  (the gear changing gizmos)  and components... That and the wheels are what break... Oh some have a shock in the seat post which is much cheaper than  rear suspension... But I would just opt for the cheapest one with decent components...

I use my bike to get from point A to point B over fire roads on WMA's... My bike is 10 years old... But then serious bikers ride their bikes twice as much in a month as I do in a year...

[Cory Mattson]

Yes good info presented here. Hey that pic is Sam on his bike - cheap model. I use one often and the last one was a $500 model my wife bought - it was stolen. I use bikes a lot for urban hunt access too. I would spend 500 again though - excellent bike - i do not know the brand - but a quality bike holds up - Blackbeard, Mounatins, our hog lease, and thru the neighborhood. Inexpensive works too most of the time - on Blackbeard there are usually dozens of bikes that are junk yard fixed up spary painted black. Funny story - one time Matt Quick calls me up and says "hey that using a bike is deadly I used Sam's bike and got into hogs all afternoon and killed one" ???? and after a minute and a few questions  - I realized he used my bike!!! - hey tires and pressure are better when used often.
One more thing - I usually DO NOT use the bike to bring game out. Tires are set for 220# (me and a loaded pack) - a deer or hog would be too much extra weight - not with Sam though since he shoots small pigs - anyway I go back with an ATV, Truck - on Blackbeard the managers pick em up - for wilderness areas I would take and empty freaightor pack - use this to carry the deer or hog and walk the bike out - thats how we do it.
Thanks <><
<------------------------<<<<<<<<<

[J. Cook]

Terry, there is good info here for sure.  I second the Craig's list option -- for a hunting bike there is really no sense in spending big money, but a cheapo will show it's wear'n'tear much quicker -- especially in gear changing.  Get a good mid-level bike like a Trek or something that's in that $500 range when new.  There are generally ton's for sale on Craig's list.  The racks will have to be aftermarket and the light also.  I'd look for dual shocks if possible, just to get any added shock absorption for your bow, etc when riding.  

I second the cart option, if your terrain allows for it.  Hauling much weight at all on a rack will really throw your balance off and make riding a pretty difficult task.  We used to pull bike carts into Cranberry Wilderness area in West Virginia for a week long pack-in fishing trip.  You can haul a lot of stuff on the carts.  We made ours ourselves out of some simple materials and they worked fine for us.

[bow loving man]

Terry, I dealt with the same issue last year and found this to be a quiet, effective way to get to where I wanted to hunt...With a little tinkering and using what I had around the house, I have a total of $20 (pawn shop) in this bike...

   

[RC]

Like Marty I`ve used Bikes from Walmart and they worked great. A flat "bed" to strap your pack on the rear works well with a small basket in the front. Carry something to repair or air up a tire and your in business. Also a way to carry your bow. Your hands must be free for a long haul. Marty and I bike to some of the same places and one of them is a 4 mile 1 way run.Its gated up and an atv to retrieve game is not an option.A field quartered critter divided up between front rack and back " bed" and a pack on your shoulders is not bad at all.

  Biggest thing I like is I`ve camped and made the 8 mile trip on foot packing out a critter on my back and was dead afterward.Everyone else hunted and I went to the pier and fished the next day..lol. After using the Bike I could make the trip twice in one day and hunt 3 days in a row and be tired but not beat down.
 Jeff Holchin and I were hunting once using our bikes....the only two people on maybe 20,000 acres and I ran into him and we crashed...funniest thing you ever saw.

  I think Marty told me about and experience he had with a "cart" on a bike. It wasn`t good.RC

[Terry Green]

Thanks Guys.....keep it coming.  I am going to buy new, from a local family owned buis......didn't know about the seat shock....sound better, and a lighter way to go than a rear shock.  I wont be on real mt bike trails often at all....but more gated service roads with maybe a tail or two here and there.  Most of the trails where I hunt are foot traffic only.

The 'bob trailer' I found would make a great asset if you wanted to set up a base camp.....

   Bob Trailer  

Thanks to all...but keep it going.

[snag]

I have been looking into this too. I have found from talking with guys that you do give up comfort if you go full mountain bike. I am going to be riding mine mostly on logging roads behind gates..no off road stuff. So I think you can go with a more standard bike, maybe a front shock, with the standard handle bars and a nice seat. If I had to ride for miles with having to lean over onto those mountain bike "T" handle bars I'd walk!

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Another thing to look in to is the baby carrier that hooks to the bike. You can load that up with some stuff and also use it to carry out game.

[Tree Killer]

I've had this Mongoose for 15 years. I use it on closed roads to access elk areas in 15-20 minutes compared to 45-60 minutes on foot. I zip tie a plastic milk crate on the back rack to keep my pack off my back.

 

There's an outfit on the Oregon coast that builds a really nice trailer that attaches to the bike under the seat. They were selling for $400 or so the last time I heard.

Here's a link for the game carts I mentioned above..

 http://www.hawkeyebilt.com/

[**DONOTDELETE**]

This is what I mean.

 

[mrpenguin]

Terry,

I used to ride (now I'm more of a roadie) and somewhat race Mnt. Bikes and I worked in a bike shop for a year while in graduate school.  You CAN spend a small fortune... but I think your best bet is to go to a local bike shop.  Find the OWNER and tell him/her exactly what you are looking for and what reasonable price range you want to spend.  With bikes, like bows, you often get what you pay for.  If you buy garbage made for the big box, it will fail you.  Here are a couple of things you want to tell them you want: full suspension, disc breaks, STI gearing by Shimano.  If at all possible, I recommend carbon fiber framing.  This will cost more, but it will be the last frame for a bike you will ever buy.  And it will absorb alot of the shock of the ride, saving you undue fatigue when riding and hunting.  

Here are some companies I think make outstanding bikes:

Kona (Hawaii, USA)
Cannondale (CT, USA)
Jamis (Korean as I recall)
Giant (not certain)

Kona specialize in off road bikes and make a pretty serious full suspension ride.  Guys who down hill race (that is heading straight down a mountain) ride those.  Cannondale can be a bit expensive, but its what I ride and they are super solid, made in USA. Jamis is a good bike, but cheaper as it is foreign made.

Oh, one thing to look for in frame quality, check the welds.  The smoother the welds (less beading, dripping, etc...) the better the frame is constructed.  

PM me if you have any other questions... I am happy to help!