Mountain Bikes for HUNTING....

[snag]

Now get the paint cans out and CAMO that thing!    

[elkken]

I'm taking my bike for a ride / scouting trip tomorrow , our deer season opened today but I'm not going to get too serious until elk opens next week.

[Gtownviking]

Having been a mountain bike racer years ago and owning quite a few. I can tell you that a rear suspension bike is NOT what you want. You lose too much energy. Too much of your effort goes to pushing the bike (called bio-bounce) down rather than forward. Also, if you plan to carry out your game, you need to make sure you have the correct gearing. Make sure you have a "triple" up front. (Three chain rings at the pedals). ALso, you will want 29" wheels.  The larger the wheel the lower the angle of approach you have which of course means it's easier to roll over stuff. There are several other things that I would suggest like, using an IGH (Internal Gear Hub)  but those are pricey.  The thought behind this is that in the woods, there are little grimmlins that can reach out and tear that rear dérailleur off the bike and then, your screwed. With an IGH, you don't have that worry. You also, don't have to worry about mud, sticks snow or ice mucking up the dérailleur.
Disc brakes are another that I would suggest.  Greater stopping power and if you are getting out of control on a downhill with an 80 pound hog strapped to the back, you want to be able to stop when you squeeze the levers.

Aluminum is lighter and will be the predominant material used for MBs.  It is very light but incredibly rigid, (read bouncy and hard on the bum when riding) Steel is real baby!  Although heavier, it flexes more and thus gives a "plusher" ride. Also, if something happens to the frame or fork out in the field, it is much easier to find someone who can weld steel than aluminum.

You can spend anywhere from $78 at Wally's for a nicely painted brick that might get you to your destination or you can spend upwards of $6,000 plus.  The choice is yours. For what you want and should get, I would say it's roughly $800 to $2,000.

I know...."you're out of your freakin' head!"  But keep in mind that what I am proposing you get is something that will last FOREVER.

Here are some bikes I would recommend...
GT Peace 9er
 http://www.gtbicycles.com/bikes/mountain/endurance/peace-9-r-multi

Salsa Fargo
 http://salsacycles.com/bikes/fargo/

Surly Karate Monkey
 http://surlybikes.com/bikes/karate_monkey_complete/

Jamis Exile
 http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/hardtails/exile/10_exile1.html

Specialized Rockhopper
 http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52808&scid=1000&scname=Mountain

I too have bee considering a "Hunting Bike" and out of the ones listed above, I would choose the Fargo.

All of the above bikes will work well with racks, both front and rear.  There are a myriad of baskets, panniers (bags) that attach to the racks.  Ortlieb make really nice ones, waterproof too!  Make it easier to wash out the blood and all.

For trailers, I would look at the BOB trailer series.  Great trailers.

And last but not least....for those nights that you just wont make it back (or don't plan to), you could always pull this....

 http://midgetcampers.com.au/bushtrekka.htm  

PM me if you have any questions.

Eric

[vermonster13]

I picked up a Specialized Rockhopper today at a local bike shop off of Craig's list.

What do you guys recommend for a rear rack?

[Hookeye]

29's are smoother over some bumps, you can be a slouch and just hammer into the small stuff and be pretty comfy.

But I think they feel weird.

I like a 26" hardtail with front shocks with lockouts.

Like another has posted.......a decent starter bike should run you at least $600 new (that the discounted price- retail usually over a K).

A really sweet MTB, they usually retail at over 3K.

You can score HUGE savings by buying closeout models or used ones.

Fixing Wallyworld stuff.......isn't cost effective IMHO. The annoyance factor of having equipment break when you need it.......double whammy.

FWIW I've been pleased with my old Fuji Tahoe Pro series. I got it discounted big time (when they dropped the line for a yr). Added some better stuff to it.........have maybe $650 in it.

Been flawless for the last 3 yrs. Did fold a cassette on a hill climb when I first got it, but that the only problem.

It's been down hard a couple of times........no real damage except to me and the paint.

[Hookeye]

I like the fact it's in a color I can find in the woods    

[Brook Trout]

Terry,
You made a good choice.  Let me make one suggestion: Try riding it off road with and without the kickstand and compare how loud the bike is.  You will probably find as I have that the kickstand will rattle and spook game.  There are plenty of trees to lean the bike against.

[dragonheart]

Make sure to keep the seatpost height up enough.  You want just a slight bend in your knee when at the bottom of the peddle stroke.  You can mess your knees up with the seat too low.

[ArrowCrester]

I'D RATHER USE MY TRUCK…lol

             

[jhg]

I've not read all the posts but will mention these points and second them if already made:

1)The bike fit to your body is going to be the most important factor in how much you can get out of the bike and at what comfort physically. A mis-fit bike can make riding on uneven terrain a drag, no matter how tuff you are.
2)Back in the day they designed some very nice mtn bikes with rigid frames, using geometry and metals to build flex into areas on the bike such as the fork and the tail. Find out if your bike frame is designed this way if you go shockless. I prefer them as it puts more power (me) to the ground using less effort. I like the weight savings on the front using a straight fork.
3)using a rack, especially on the front, will mean you might want a bike with a bit more forgiving geometry up front than the quickest bikes have. The closer to the frame the fork angle is (simplification) the quicker the turning, but the easier to take a header. They can be touchy with a loaded rack. A little less angle on a tired return ride at night you may be glad you don't have to be on edge the whole way home to keep it together.
Just my thoughts and BTW a little less angle is still going to be a very capable mtn bike.

Joshua, thinking its pretty cool you are going this route...

Oh, and its always easier to lose 5 lbs than chase after a bike that shaves off 6 ozs and costs another 500.00. Just sayin' (not that I think you need to lose any wt I don't even know what you look like besides pics here on Tradgang)

[Hookeye]

You can change the fit and feel of a bike a bunch by changing the stem and bars (and other stuff).

I did mine and it's more comfy, but way less forgiving than it was when stock. Eh, ya get used to it.

Getting used to it.....whatever you do, run stock or after a mod, take it out to some test areas to get the hang of it before hitting the woods.

FWIW I do think bikes are cool, but strapping hunting gear to them offers hightened risk to such gear.

Higher speed, leverage, a "stumble" can magnify such an error's effect (compared to just tripping over your own two feet).

BTW, when on the trail and wearing more bulky clothing, I find that I have to drop my seatpost a bit. A little tougher on the knees but I can dismount easier if I need to in a hurry.

[wv lungbuster]

What do you guys think about about disc brakes, are they worth the extra cash?

[razorsharptokill]

I was considering using my Trek ($75.00 pawn shop)bike at the McAlester hunt this year(IF I dont get deployed). They give you a limited amount of scouting time and limit your driving. There is a lot of roads on that place. A bike would be great for quickly covering the distances to get to some areas I want to look at.

[Grey Taylor]

Personally, I don't think disc brakes are worth the extra cost.
If you're a high performance rider, then sure. But for what most of us do, no.
Just be sure to get good quality brakes. The cheap stuff flexes under load and can give you some scary moments when you really need them to work well. There's just nothing like having your brake levers bottomed out against the grips and continuing to hurtle down a narrow dirt path.

Guy

[Archie]

I bike quite a bit, and often use my Gary Fisher Tassahara ($400 used) for getting into my hunting area.  I've been a mountain biker for over 20 years.  I always tell people this:  Bows, guitars, and mountain bikes are all similar in that you should get as good of one as you can afford.  If you get junk, or 'el cheapo', you will not enjoy it, and will not use it.  You may think you don't like the activity itself, when the truth is that your equipment is too lousy to enjoy.  

My thoughts are...

1.  Determine where you'll be riding, and what you'll be carrying on it.  Deer?  Pigs?  Rhinoceros?  This will determine whether you want a trailer, or some method to carry on the bike.  Thick brush?  Mud?  Desert?  Hills?  Flat?  You won't need disc brakes on flatland... but they would be helpful on hills, and possibly less noisy in mucky areas.

2.  Go to a bike shop, where people who know what they are talking about can give you some experienced advice.  Really... would you recommend that someone buy a bow at Wal-Mart, or a pawn shop, if they had no idea what they were getting?  No way.

3.  29ers are great, and give a nice ride.  My next bike will be one.  No need for rear suspension.  Possibly no need for front suspension, either, depending on how hard you will be riding, or how out of shape you are.  My front shock is busted, and I've permanently locked it out.  I ride 18 miles round trip to work, on some pretty bumpy ground, and it's no big deal.  Be careful do not be overcome by thinking you need something you really don't.  I raced a non-suspension mtn bike 20 years ago and it worked just fine.

4.  Definitely put 'slime' in the tires.  This is a gooey substance that will automatically seal any small holes in your inner tubes.  Also, put together a small bike repair kit and never leave without it.  

5.  Once you get set up, try it out at home.  You don't want to find out at 3am in the parking lot of some wilderness area that when you put your pack on and get on your bike, you can't tilt your head back because it hits your pack/frame.  

6.  If possible, get out from between your load and the bike.  Put your gear in pannier bags directly on the bike, instead of in a backpack.  That saves a lot of wear and tear on your tailbone!

[Hopewell Tom]

Good to see this thread back up, just today I mentioned to my wife that I want to get a bike and remembered this thread from last year. Lots of good advice(now written down) and I'll be going to a few shops in the next few weeks. Thanks for sharing.

[Mark Normand]

This is a great topic that deserves an occasional ttt.

This pic is a few years old, but just wanted to show how I haul my lightweight trailer when needed.
It rolls as easy as the bike.


  https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aK_umNn3BCA/TIaBKQ-McMI/AAAAAAAACVw/XM9ssgIwEns/s912/018_18.JPG

[Tracks]

Glad to see so many guys using pedal-power!
Thanks for putting this on everyone's radar, Terry.

[Roadkill]

I was stationed on the Quantico Marine Base in the 80's. I modified a bike to v
Carry my climbing tree stand over the rear tire and my bow in a gun rack on the handlebars.  

I am looking for a picture I had taken with a doe on the bike with me riding on her back. It was a gravel road and a mile from the gate where my truck was parked

I wish I had that bike last year to haul out my Julie.

Bikes work well

[Davesea]

I am doing some research and found this link to the beer keg hauling trailers.
 http://www.bikesatwork.com/