Does nock point change the spine?

[NBK]

Been shooting some full length arrows with 300gr. at the point and they bareshaft well with the nock set at 1/2" above center.
I then tried a shorter and weaker spined arrow with 215gr. at the point because I wanted a lighter arrow and I had to raise my nock point to 7/8ths"!?
My question is that when I shot the weaker shaft at 1/2" it really showed weak.  As I raised the nock to correct for "nock low" I noticed that the shaft also seem to stiffen up a bit.  It still shows weak but not nearly as much.  Does raising the nock also change the spine?

[Eugene Slagle]

Memory tells me no, but what may be happening is a clearence concern that is slightly remedied by you raising the nock point up.

Are you canting your bow when you are bare shafting or holding verticle?
My mentor told me that a verticle bow is best for tuning & maybe tweak it for canting later.

[NBK]

Thanks for the response.  I am shooting vertical.  Over lunch I shortened up the shaft some and it's now showing very slightly weak, which I prefer.  The shaft now also shows a little nock high without me adjusting it.  I'll cut the rest of the shafts to that length and fletch a few up and see how they fly.

[Cherokee Scout]

Are the shafts the same diameter?

[xtrema312]

Carbon arrows correct?  I see some odd stuff like this with longer than needed carbon shafts and/or high FOC and what should be a too weak arrow set-up.  I don't have it figured out yet, but have seen it repeatedly.  I think it has something to do with the very fast recovery in the bending of a carbon shaft.

[BunneyHunter]

agree with the above in my experience it should not change the spine of the arrow.

[Hud]

Nocking point should not affect spine, which is the shaft stiffness . Shortening the arrows will stiffen it and lengthening will weaken it. The only reason the nocking point should be raised is because the shafts are nock low at impact, when shot from under 10 ft.

I would check the string for a broken strand, then adjust the string height to the mfgr's recommended height, reset the nocking pointing to
1/4" and shoot through paper stretched tight in front of the target butt. The arrow should not be past center. Try paper over a open box in front of the target. Picture a box with the top and bottom open with paper over the front, side closest to you and shoot a few at 10 ft. The tear in the paper will tell you what your arrow is doing as it leaves the bow.

Then, if you shoot a fletched arrow and get perfect flight, any shaft entering the target to the right is weak, and to the left is stiff for a RH hand shooter.

Heavy points have a tendancy to make the arrow act weak, because the release pushes the shaft against the resistance of the heavy point. Therefore if you reduce the weight up front, the arrow should move back to the left.  If you still want the high FOC, then try a stiffer spine.

Unless you are shooting three fingers under, it is hard to imagine having to raise the nock point above 1/4".  My nock point has been between 1/8 and 3/8 on every bow I have every owned. So I have not experienced this same problem, maybe some else has another idea.

The loss of tiller in a bow can make it necessary to raise the nocking point, but this is rare in a laminated bow and sometimes occurs in self bows.

If your bow is cut past center, the arrow will end up shooting best when the rest is built out, and the shaft will be pointed left of center, when shooting with fingers. If you have a release aid, then you might get good flight when the arrow is perfectly dead center in the string.