carbon arrows and wraps?

[blaster]

I think I am going to order a set of carbon shafts. I shoot a 61#@27" super shrew, arrows would be 28" to back of point. I am guessing the carbon express heritages in the 250 size should be about right, correct? I am fine with putting heavier tips on to get them to fly well if you think they would be too stiff. Or would any of you recommend something else.

Also, I want to order some arrow wraps for the shafts. How wide should those be to fit them best?

Thanks.

[adeeden]

If your looking for wraps, contact onestringer through the classifieds. He has great wraps and real good prices!

[Shawn Leonard]

The 250s will be stiff unless ya go with 225 grains of point weight or so, you will have to experiment a little. Shawn

[macbow]

The only thing to keep in mind with the wraps is that if the shaft was damaged under the wrap it won't be so obvious till you shoot it.
Just have to be more aware if you glance off of something hard.

Second the onestringer choice.
Ron

[JRY309]

I have found with carbons I never cut them until I shoot them first.Carbons are a different learning curve in tuning them then wood and aluminum are.Wood and aluminum have so many more spine weights then carbon.With Carbon Express you have 150,250 and 350's that is three basic starting spines so you adjust to your spine by shortening them alittle at a time or adding weight.Never just cut them to your length to start with you will get headaches from trying to get them to fly right no matter how much weight you add up front.With carbons I don't worry the length,if they are too long I will go to the lower spine.Carbons seem to be more sensitive to length then point weight.You see alot of used carbons for sale because they were cut to short and they can't get them to fly right.I bought some used carbons that were only a inch longer then my draw and and I couldn't get them to fly no matter how much weight I put up front.They seemed to get worse the more weight up front then less weight.Don't cut them before you shoot them carbons recover different especially with bows not cut to center or past center.This has been my experience with carbons.

[SlowBowinMO]

JRY309 is dead on IMO.

I'll third that Onestringer's wraps are excellent, you'd want a 1" size for carbons and he'll make them as long as you want.  A 9 or 10 inch length looks a lot more like a good traditional dip than most of the wraps that are available.

[jeff / sc]

From my limited experiance with carbons CX 150's, I think JRY309 nailed it.  The first thing I did was cut one too short....even with 350 gr up front, I still can get to fly right.

[M60gunner]

I shoot CX 150`s and 250`s. I used the theory of bareshafting with the broadhead weight I hunt with and cutting the shafts a little at a time until they flew straight. I got a test kit of field points from 3rivers and a pack of 5grain washers.
I ran into 1 problem with this method. The 150`s I cut would fly fine but when I mounted a broadhead on one it hit the shelf as I was drawing back my recurve. I then got a doz. 250`s which I was able to leave longer and get the same got flight from. I tried heavy inserts but that made my arrows to heavy for me. I like 10grains per lb. of bow weight for all my shooting.(55lbs)
I had onestringer make custom wraps for me. They work great and were very easy on my pocketbook.
Oh yes, CX Heritage shafts are real tough. I have hit rebar that holds up 3D`s and so far have only bent the field tips which are cheap to replace.

[Gordon martiniuk]

Ishoot cx 45?60s at30in and also 250s at 30in and they fly real good with 175 to 250 gr broadheads weigh in at 570 gr with snuffers are tough shafts I am pulling 50 lbs on one bow and 55lbs on the other at 27" draw I get excellent flight Do not cut your shafts too short as carbons are too stiff and do not shoot good shortall I have tryed