You will see a wide range of recommendation for carbon. You don't see that with wood or aluminum much. Carbon is a different animal. The fast reaction of carbon and HFOC required to weight the arrow to make it safe to shoot in trad bows makes them often bare shaft well at shorter ranges because the heavy point is hard for the shaft to pull off line. It is like a dart. Personal form goes a long way in determining what will work even after taking into account all the other data.
I have found I can shoot a lot stiffer arrow than I was. One day I got thinking that my arrows always hit weak or about on, but almost never have I gotten them to really plain stiff. I also was having some problem with shelf edge rub, which I just couldn't figure out. 40 yd. bare shafting showed me what that shaft does when given time to wobble around, and over correct. Still hits about the same place, but obviously the arrow is not ideal. Does it matter much for hunting at 20 yd? Probably not much, because like a dart, as soon as you add the feathers the light spine HFOC arrow will correct in a reasonable distance. However, if you want an arrow that sets up nice and straight fast, looses minimal speed, and will shoot bullet holes in paper at 12', you need to stiffen them up. I found I could getter much better paper tune and way less or now shelf edge contact with the stiffer arrows.
I would go 35/55, but I think the 55/75 will work also. I was able to shoot 5575 in a 46#@28" cut to center recurve just fine, but they heavy and the bow was a good performer with FF string. You will probably get a real good all around arrow at a nice length with the 3555 with 10 gpp. Probably even be able to use standard inserts, but it will not be upper end of 500 gr. tuned the way I like a bare shaft to fly. With the 5575 I would start full length and work down, but I can get it with about a 29-30" arrow, 100 gr. insert and 175 gr. head. For you heavier heads may be needed or a longer arrow, but I think that is in the ball park depending on all those personal variables.
I have also found a real difference between inserts in some cases and in others no difference. If I use aluminum insert and a heavier head I get a lot weaker arrow than a lighter head and heavy insert if both combinations are the same weight. Moving the weight forward, even if the insert length is the same, has a very noticeable affect for me. I also have found very little difference between 100 and 50 gr. brass inserts. 50 gr. is a lot, but the a 50 is also shorter than the 100. The flexing shaft length change and weight change kind of balances things out reasonable close for me. Now I use the one that weights the arrow the way I want.