Big Question For Me Regarding Carbon...

[Johnny UMAA]

and carbon arrow components.

A little background is in order here, I think.

It is "really" hard for me to think about making the move to carbon as I am such a creature of habit.

I need some advice and hopefully from someone here that uses or has a similar set-up as me in regard to my bowmaker, length of bow, weight & draw.

My current bow is an original Schafer SilverTip at 62 inch length, marked as 55# @29 inches. I shoot 3 fingers under. Since 1988, I have been shooting Easton XX75 2216 aluminum arrows at the 28 1/2 inch length...so I figure that my draw is really 28 inches. I fletch and crest my own arrows and have always used left-wing 5" parabolic feathers as they have given me my best flight.

I have my ideas, but I would like suggestions from folks who have moved from metal to carbon arrows and I would like for it to be as painless as possible...if you know what I mean. Did I mention that I was a creature of habit and hate change?  

The carbons that intrigue me are the Beeman MFX Classics (woodgrain) and the 3-Rivers Traditional Onlys (woodgrains also). These "wood-grains" look good to the eye, but I am looking for strength and maybe less diameter for even more of a "true center" alignmment of my arrow on the shelf, if that is even possible at this point. My arrows have always been swedged on both ends, but I know this has to change with carbons and I am looking for suggestions as to the nock and head components, glue-on versus screw-on, etc. What I have always loved about glue-on directly to a swedge is the strength and less failure because of less components. I'd love to stay with that strategy if at all possible.

Not a very tall order (yeah right), but I do enjoy suggestions and sound advice.

Thanks in advance for your help...I'm making my move before the season in Mississippi opens October 1.

Just a note...the reason I'm asking these questions here and not at the local archery shop is that they act as if they are doing you a favor just to wait on you around here (and plus they consider traditionalists a waste of their time to make "little money"...and that is hard to argue, but that why we all love it!

[maineac]

I have gone over from xx75s to carbons.  I have found the Carbon Express Trads. to be very forgiving.  I have tested `50's and 250's so I could front load them.   I don't think you would regret trying them.  Big Jim has a sale on.  I think you could go with 150's close to your draw length 29.% to 29 an have great results, or the 250's  a bit longer, out to 31"ish

[Steve O]

The skinny carbons are great.  The Beman MFX Classics and the Axis FMJs are .1 g/in from being identical.  You are going to want 400s with your setup and you should be able to tune them to the weight of broadhead you want to shoot by length of shaft.  Use JB Weld to install the inserts instead of the epoxy that comes with them.

[giff]

they are lighter, so they will fly slightly faster, plus you can get more weight forward.

[creekwood]

The Beman MFX arrows are tough as nails.  What broadhead weight do you intend to use? I would try and use the 400 shafts if I were you.  Beman also offers a 50 or 75 grain brass insert if you want to weight them up.  As far as LH or RH fletchings, there is no difference in which works better.  I am also a believer that a properly tuned heavy shaft will always outperform a properly tuned lighter shaft (outperform meaning more penetration).

[Johnny UMAA]

Originally posted by creekwood:
The Beman MFX arrows are tough as nails.  What broadhead weight do you intend to use? I would try and use the 400 shafts if I were you.  Beman also offers a 50 or 75 grain brass insert if you want to weight them up.  As far as LH or RH fletchings, there is no difference in which works better.  I am also a believer that a properly tuned heavy shaft will always outperform a properly tuned lighter shaft (outperform meaning more penetration).

I agree about the heavier weight versus a lighter shaft outperforming. I use a 125 grain two-blade Zwickey.

[BowMIke]

I use Beman MFX 400's with 100 grain brass insert and a 125 grain head for 52 to 55# bows. They shoot great and are very tough. They weigh approx. 557 grains.
I think you would be very pleased with a similar set-up.

[mwosborn]

I have been very happy with the gold tip traditional.  They look very good and are just as tough as any other carbon I have shot.  I purchased the blemished shafts from Big Jim and was able to get a dozen for under $50.00.  I shoot a bit lighter than you so I went with the 35/55 - you may need the 55/75 if you were shooting the 2216 aluminum.  Have had no issues with the nocks nor inserts - shooting screw in zwickey eskilite.  Gives me a 465 g arrow for my 49# pull.

[hunt it]

Your on the money as far as shafts go. The carbon inserts and knocks are far stronger than those of the swaged variation.

[Jim Wright]

I have been shooting the Beman MFXs for some time now, they are great shafts, extremely consistent weight/spine and very tough. If it helps, I just bare shafted and paper tuned some MFX 500s for a new Dan Toelke "Curlew" 3 pc. 62" t.d. recurve, 54# @ 29". Cut 30" throat of nock to back of point with a 75 gr. and a 100 gr. brass insert, 3 five inch parabolics and 175 gr. point they fly beautifully. Total weight is 665 grains. My experience has been that they handle a pretty wide range of heavy front end weight and still fly very well.

[Ragnarok Forge]

Carbons are either straight or broken, are way tougher than wood or aluminum and are very consistent in weight from shaft to shaft.  I love them and like that I can get my arrows all to within one to two grains of each other.

[ishoot4thrills]

I LOVE my Beman MFX 500 Classics! I will never shoot any other carbon arrow. (Does that make me a creature of habit, too?)

Check my signature below for my setup. I use the 500 spine and just add some material to my side plate above the shelf to make them act stiffer. I find it easier to add the material to the side plate and go on the weak side in spine than to take a chance on buying an arrow that is too stiff and try to make it weaker to match your bow.

Did I mention that I LOVE my Beman MFX 500 Classics?!!??

[Shawn Leonard]

Heritage 150 cut to 29"s with a 50 grain brass insert and 125 grain head. Really end of story!! I shot a both an original Schafer and a newer Silvertip one 52#s at 28"s and the other 51# and they both shot that combo perfect. I am positive it will be perfect for ya! Shawn

[Arwin]

Heritage 150's are hands down the toughest arrows I have ever used. 200 grain Phantoms up front out of my 53# longbow, they fly perfect!
 I have the same set since last summer. The only on that broke since then was caused by a head on rock collision.
 I tried Gold Tips and thought they were a little flimsy, seemed to spiral shatter on the end if you hit a hard stump. Same with Carbon Tech's pretty whimpy.

[Johnny UMAA]

Thanks for all of the great advice, Guys!

I've got an idea of the set-up I'm going to try AND I have a "back-up" plan if the first doesn't work.

Thanks again! This is why I love this site...great folks that are most helpful!

[xtrema312]

I love carbons, but spent a lot more time fussing with them than I did aluminum.  You have a lot of info on carbons now so all I would say is Oct. 1 is not too far off.  Are you sure you want to start this process now? Give it a go, but Make sure tried and true is ready to go and you don't goof up your shooting just before the season starts off.