2016's too stiff? Easton chart suggests 'em

[gobblegrunter]

I tried searchin' this in past posts and saw a couple of relevant posts, but am lookin for more advice. I have a 40# @ 30in (my draw is 30in), on it's way. I looked up the chart on Easton's website because I have a dozen new 31" 2016 XX75's and wanted to see how they matched up. I was afraid they might be too stiff, but they're actually suggested on Easton's chart (based on poundage & arrow length). Anyone here have some experience to share or input? Thanks in advance!

[arrowslinger22]

I would think they would be way too stiff.  I'd suggest 1816's or 1916's.  My bows are around 45-50 @28 with my draw being 27.5.  I found 1916's cut to 29 fly great with 160g broadheads.

[vermonster13]

You'll need a 1916 or 2013. 1816 spine would work best for you, but they only come 30" at full length. Play with point weight and leave the 1916 full length(31"), or the 2013 full length(32.5"). The 2013 will give you more point weight options since it is longer and you can weaken the spine easier.

[Hookeye]

Find an Easton chart from around '87 (I have one in the back of a BW owner's manual that is decent)  

The new chart sucks IMHO.

[Reaper TN]

I'm sure they will work if you load up the front with some heavy points, will probably shoot real slow though.  2016's are a popular size aluminum, sell em' and buy some.600 spine carbons, they should work great for you. Most of them come about 30.5 inches.  I have found that Easton's recurve and longbow chart will always suggest an arrow that is way overspined.

[gobblegrunter]

Ok, thanks everyone. Looks like I'll be puttin a post in the classifieds. So what would be the best option, the longer 2013's with more front-weight options or the full-length 31" 1916's?

[metsastaja]

Derek try Stu millers dynamic spine calculator

   Dynamic Spine Calculator download
you will need a spreadsheet program, Microsoft Excel or one from openoffice.org.  

I and many others have used it very sucessfully.

it allows you to play around with weighting, center cut, string selection etc.

It is a good tool

[TD2]

those arrow charts are worthless for trad gear! They are based on compounds.

[gobblegrunter]

Originally posted by metsastaja:
Derek try Stu millers dynamic spine calculator

   Dynamic Spine Calculator download
you will need a spreadsheet program, Microsoft Excel or one from openoffice.org.  

I and many others have used it very sucessfully.

it allows you to play around with weighting, center cut, string selection etc.

It is a good tool

Thanks very much. will try it out.


 

Originally posted by TD2:
those arrow charts are worthless for trad gear! They are based on compounds.

It seems to be the general consensus that the chart is off. It does have you specify what kind of bow you shoot though (compound, recurve, or longbow). Either way, it seems like I need to start with lighter arrows.

[gobblegrunter]

I am mainly interested in hunting (obviously not for another year or two), So I wonder, would the 2016's give me better penetration than the 1916's or 2013's? Do you all think I'll see that much difference between the 2013's and 2016's? ...I forgot to mention I'll be shooting from a center-cut riser. Thanks very much everyone!

[vermonster13]

1916s weigh 10 gpi, 2013s weigh 9 gpi, and 2016s weigh 10.6 gpi. 1916s in theory would penetrate the best being the slimmest shaft, in reality for whitetails and such any of them will bury in the dirt after passing through when tuned properly. What you should be aiming for is the best possible flight you can get from any of these. Personally I'd try to get a few 2013s full length and a few 1916s full length and bare-shaft both and see what I get and decide from there.

[Night Wing]

You might want to try a 32" BOP arrow. If your bow is cut 3/16" past center with a fast flight  bowstring with either 13 strands or 14 strands, it might surprise you if you try a 2016. You can fine tune by adding or subtracting point grain weight and/or adjusting brace height either up or down.

As an example, I have a 66", 42# @ 30" take down recurve and I shoot 32" BOP arrows. The extra 2" of arrow length keeps the back of the very sharp broadhead away from my knuckles if I overdraw from excitement before I settle to my anchor point. With a 14 strand Dyna97 bowstring, 5/8" nock point height off the shelf and 7 1/4" brace height, I found this bow likes a very heavy 32" BOP 2117 with a 220 grain point weight. Both field points and broadheads hit in the same spot at 10, 15 and 20 yards and it's surprisingly very flat shooting at the 20 yard distance.

I would never have considered the 2117 if I hadn't tried Stu Miller's DSC program.

[Killdeer]

Since you have them, why not try the 2016s? I am thinking that with your draw length, they might be the ticket.

Killdeer

[gobblegrunter]

Just not sure if I wanna use them or sell them now while they havent yet been shot.

Being that the 1916's are 10gpi and the 2016's are 10.6gpi, is there really a big enough overall difference for a new archer to notice? I wonder just because 0.6gpi (difference between 1916's & 2016's) only equates to 18.6 grains difference over the entire arrow. Just doesn't seem like that much to me. I'm probably showing my ignorance here, but had to ask...

[Killdeer]

Probably not. You're thinking too much. It is more important to match the spine of your arrow to the bow than it is to worry about weight. There is enough weight there that you will not harm your bow, and your brain will learn the trajectory of the arrow.

(Will somebody run a 2016 shaft out to this guy to try out?   :confused:   ) All those shooters in Pennsy, somebody has to be near you. Everybody should have a stash of 2016s anyway. It is like having salt and pepper in the pantry.

Killdeer

[gobblegrunter]

Originally posted by Killdeer:
Probably not. You're thinking too much. It is more important to match the spine of your arrow to the bow than it is to worry about weight. There is enough weight there that you will not harm your bow, and your brain will learn the trajectory of the arrow.

(Will somebody run a 2016 shaft out to this guy to try out?       :confused:       ) All those shooters in Pennsy, somebody has to be near you. Everybody should have a stash of 2016s anyway. It is like having salt and pepper in the pantry.

Killdeer

Lol! I have a definite tendancy to think too much, thats for sure. Thats ok though, I can certainly use my 2016's to figure it out when my bow arrives. Thanks for the thoughtfullness though. I'm just showing my anal-retentiveness, thats all!  

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

Try them first, I think you'll be surprised.

[metsastaja]

Derek you anywhere close to E Stroudsburg.  If so can hook you up with my Brother.  He has more equipment the some stores I have visited.

[gobblegrunter]

Originally posted by metsastaja:
Derek you anywhere close to E Stroudsburg.  If so can hook you up with my Brother.  He has more equipment the some stores I have visited.

Very nice offer Sir. Thanks very much. Unfortunately I'm a good 2.5 hrs or so away. Otherwise, I'd take you up on it! I guess in addition to being anal-retentive, I'm being a cheap-skate too eh?     I think I'll just settle down, give the 2016's a go, and save $ in the meantime for some 1916's. Who knows though, maybe my rig'll like the 2016's?  

[Ravenhood]

My wife shoots 2016s out of a 45# at 28 Martin Hunter, 145 gr. points 29 inch arrow , she draws 28 inches .