tuning broadheads

[Joed]

how do i get my broadheads to shoot as straight as possible. I am shooting a kodiak magnum at 55 pounds and a hatfield takedown i just bought used at 55 pounds. At 20 yards the arrows are flying somewhat straight with the takedown, but the kodiak magnum is all over the place. I was shooting fairly consistent with field tips out of both. I just bought magnus broadheads and started practicing with them. also shooting 2117 arrows, though i feel like they are too stiff as i tend to like shooting 2018's much better, any suggestions?

 I am constantly working on my form and focusing on my follow through, but sometimes that doesn't even help.

[Joed]

oh and broadheads are 100 grain, shooting 125 grain field tips. Part of the problem?

[Joed]

oh and broadheads are 100 grain, shooting 125 grain field tips. Part of the problem?

[Mitch-In-NJ]

I would be surprised if 25gr made that much difference unless the arrows were already out of tune, which is possible based on your comments.

How do they fly (field points) bare shaft?

[Bjorn]

Unless you draw 30" 2117 is way stiff especially for the K Mag.

[Ravenhood]

I agree with Bjorn.

[Joed]

i hate the 2117's on the kmag, but i went to the closest archery shop and they adjusted my knock point and they do fly better with field points, but with the broadheads and the kmag the 2117 are all over the place. I draw 28". With the hatfield takedown the 2117 are all right as long as my follow through is solid with a little wobble on the arrow.

I only have 1 2018 left after destroying all the others  I had, but i feel like those are definatly a better arrow for me on both bows.

[Eugene Slagle]

If you get any good flight out of those 2117's with just 100gr. up front you're lucky especially with broadheads.

2114's cut to 30" & 125gr. points & 5" feathers would be a decent tuneable arrow for you.
2018's would also be a good tuneable arrow with the same points & feathers.

[Joed]

thanks.

[S.C. Hunter]

You said they were flying fairly consistent.If you said they were flying like darts out of both then I would say you have another problem, but it sounds like you were taking a shaft and making it work as best you could for both bows. when you go to a broadhead and it doesn't fly like your points you have to look at how the heads were mounted. Do they spin well are the shafts new or were they practice arrows made to hunt with, they could be bent. Your nock point could be set to low. The shaft may be to stiff. Sorry could go on but these are things only you can check. Look them over and let us know. You may be able to simply add a little more weight up front.

[Joed]

how to i adjust how the heads are mounted. Im just gonna tinker and tinker till i find what i need.

[S.C. Hunter]

Were the magnus heads mounted on adapters when you purchased them or did you have someone mount them on the adapters? Are the inserts flush in the shaft also? What type feathers are you using length wise? 3,4,5" I would go with at least 5 maybe 5 1/2" if you have any issue with flight. I wouldn't hide a problem by going larger either.

  Take a arrow or two and find a flat surface that won't interfere with the rotation of the shaft and roll them you will see any wobble.  

  Remember the fletching and broadhead has to clear this surface. Even the corner of the counter top will work.

[joe skipp]

If your drawing a true 28", your 2117's should be cut 29"-29 1/4" long. Adapters are 25 grains, Magnus are 30 grains, so your broadhead weight up front is roughly 125.

The 2117's should not come off stiff from either of your setup. Personally, the arrow has to spin true for me, thats why I went to swagged aluminum.
Next, I want 5" or 5.5" feathers in a full helical. As much wrap as I can get from my Bitz.

I draw 27", my 2117's are cut 28.5" and they fly perfectly from my 53# longbow, 55# old Browning Cobra, 57# Groves and 58# Kempf. Make sure your nocking point is adjusted properly, brace height where it should be and if the Kodiak is an older bow, check for twisted limb.

Finally...problem could be your release or something your doing after release, like torquing or dropping the bow arm.....

[Joed]

They were mounted and flush. I just picked up a pack at cabelas. I just put a brand new broadhead on a brand new 2117 and shot, they don't fly terrible with the takedown. they will not work with the kmag. Its dark, so its harder to tell but they were hitting the target with the takedown. just frustrating, arrows are expensive!

[Bjorn]

This is not a form problem and tinkering won't fix it either. The 2117 will never fly really well out of either bow...............if the arrows are acting up when fletched just imagine what they would fly like w/o fletch. Sell them and get the right shafting for your bow.

[Old York]

What is the brace height on your K-Mag?
Tell us how you measure it.

Tell us what your eyes see for arrow flight with the 2117's, "flying all over the place" can mean many things.

[PAPA BEAR]

if your arrows flew good before the broadheads were installed then tune your broadheads.heat the heads close to the insert with a small torch.just enough to put a broadhead wrench on and have them move when you twist the arrow while holding the head still with the wrench.turn just a little at a time then put arrow on hard surface and spin,pay close attention and look for wobble.repeat until you get the smoothest spin out of each.some may not ever spin smooth,use the best ones,be sure and push inward on arrow towards head to keep it flush.i shoot 2613's on my bows and they fly like darts with tuned b-heads and not so good if i dont tune them.

[Jeremy]

Broadheads magnify tuning and form errors.  Those two bows behave wildly differently - Kmags can be very touchy if you're not used to shooting a short bow.

Where in CT are you?  If you're up for a field trip we can probably get this sorted out in short order.

[JimB]

Go to bowmaker.net and follow the tuning information.If you establish the right point weight,you could get them to fly right but most likely,you will need different point weights for each bow.The easiest way to start to establish the right point weight is to get an assortment of different weight points.3Rivers and others should have some test kits.I would start with 175 and work up.

Fletched arrows will seem to fly well with a variety of weights but that doesn't mean they are tuned.Your broadheads are pointing that out to you.You need a couple bare shafts and try a variety of heavier points.Once you establish the best field point weight,get your broadhead weight up to that and your broadheads will let you know if that needs tweeking.

To increase your broadhead weight,there are several options.3Rivers has 100 gr brass inserts to fit the 2117,or you could use steel adaptors in 75,100,125 gr weights.

Don't worry about adding weight to your arrows,especially on the front end.It will only make them hit harder.

Another option would be go to 2016's or 2018's but it will still be important to do some tuning to find the right point weght.25 grs of point weight will equal 5-7 lbs of spine and will definitely make a difference in flight with a bare shaft or broadhead.

Jeremy's offer is a good one.Spending time with someone who understands this stuff can cut out a huge chunk of learning time and frustration.

[jhg]

Maybe someone mentioned it already but try Adcock's method. I just did and it not only brought my arrows into the "dart" realm, but by following it now I understand arrow behavior and what it means when something is off. It was amazing at the end of the shooting how a 1/32 change in nock height or one twist in the string could make in accuracy.

Joshua