Arrow length question

[thunderchicken21]

I'm looking for a starting point (length wise) for some new shafts.  I'm looking to get the Goldtip XT Hunter shafts in 55/75 size, and I want to shoot about 200-250 grains of total weight up front.  I've been shooting 2117's cut 30" aluminum to aluminum, but looking to try some carbons.  I'm shooting a 45#@28" Hoyt Gamemaster, and my compound draw length is 30.5".

[lpcjon2]

I would shoot them full length and adjust(Cut) as needed when tuning.I think it will depend on you and the way your bow and arrow shoots.I wouldn't take a length that someone threw out and cut them and expect it to be on.Thats why we tune arrows for each bow.

[Bowwild]

Using the new Stu Calculator (it works for me great) I came up with the following:

55/75 GT Shaft, 200 Grain Broadhead, 24 grain insert, 5" feathers, 45#@28" but draw 30.5" would require a 31" arrow. I would imagine the actual draw weight of a bow speced at 45#@28" would pull about 52-53# at 30.5".

The biggest variable in your set up is your actual draw length.  You state with a compound your draw length is 30.5".  You may be using a D-loop, release aid, most compound users are overdrawn, etc.

It would be my guess that your actual draw length with traditional is probably going to be more like 29" and you'd cut the shafts to 31".

If your draw length is more like 29" and you wanted to shoot a 31" 55/75 you'd be better (according to the calculator) with a 150 grain broadhead.

[thunderchicken21]

Originally posted by lpcjon2:
I would shoot them full length and adjust(Cut) as needed when tuning.I think it will depend on you and the way your bow and arrow shoots.I wouldn't take a length that someone threw out and cut them and expect it to be on.Thats why we tune arrows for each bow.

Good point.  I'm pretty new to traditional archery, and kind of just picked a length on the 2117's and they seem to be flying ok.  Can you help me out on how to tell when you need to cut the shaft back a little?  And if so, how much to go?

[Bowwild]

lpcjon2's suggestion would be good to follow. I just wanted to give you an idea of what to expect. I can tell you this, for me (and maybe I was luck?)the calculator worked perfectly!  When I had finished with my arrow the field tips and the broadhead impacted the same spot.

I'm 27.5" arrow, 46 pounds draw weight (recurve).  My arrow is a Beeman MFX Classic, 600 spine, with 3, 4" feathers. I use 100 grain broadhead with a 70 grain adapter (50+20 grain insert).

I used this calculator on my son's set-up which is quite different from mine. His bow is 52#, shoots 29" arrow (28" draw). He also uses 100 grain broadhead but WITHOUT an adapter. His arrow, oddly enough is also a Beeman MFX Classic spine 600. He uses 5" feathers.

I like this arrow (MFX) because it is very narrow which allows the carbon walls to be thicker. This preserves my bow's centershot and makes for a very tough arrow.

[lpcjon2]

Brett, I am a wood guy with 125-160 gr heads,and I am not familiar with the Carbon and heavy weight set ups.Some of the other guys would be better at guiding you as to how much to cut and such for heavy carbon set ups.I can tell you that you should look at some threads on arrow tuning the basics of bare shafting and paper tuning will still apply.Use the search button and get familiar with the basics.Some of the guys get into the math and it can be overwhelming.

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

Originally posted by lpcjon2:
I would shoot them full length and adjust(Cut) as needed when tuning.I think it will depend on you and the way your bow and arrow shoots.I wouldn't take a length that someone threw out and cut them and expect it to be on.Thats why we tune arrows for each bow.

X2

[Ragnarok Forge]

You want to bare shaft to fletched shaft tune with field points.  You want your unfletched group to impact about 1 inch low and 1 inch right of the fletched group.  If your bare shafts are hitting right of your fletched shafts your shaft is weak.  If your 6 inches right cut off half an inch.  Once the center of the two groups is within4 inches, cut off 1/4 inch at a time.  Once the centers are withing 2 inches cut 1/8 inch at a time. Once your groups are inside 2 inches of each other you can usually use brace height and addition or removal of silencers to fine tune instead of cutting the arrow.  

Search the web on using "how to tune your longbow".  There are some good examples that describe this method in full.  Always start with full length shafts and then cut them as needed.

Note : these directions apply to right handed shooters.  If your a lefty the directions are reversed.

[thunderchicken21]

Thanks for the help guys!  I think I just got kind of lucky with the 2117's (or I just don't shoot consistent enough to tell the difference)

   

[S.C. Hunter]

I shoot 5575 GT cut to 29.5 BOP with a 28 in draw on a 54,55 and 56# longbow @ 28" with 175gr points and they shoot like darts. The bow weights were by accident. I know someone was wondering about the 1# increments.

[JimB]

I use 30" GT 5575's for a 43# recurve which I draw to 29",so,about 45#.It has about 250 gr point weight in addition to the aluminum insert.