Red Oak Board Bow for Jawge

[tom sawyer]

Here's my pennance for ad hominizing Tim Baker on another site (don't ask).  Per Jawge's instructions, I was to make a red oak bow, unbacked, bending through the handle (somewhat).  I bought the board last night, cut out a blank, got it floor tillered and started on tillering last night.  Overnight in the dryer, then more tillering today, followed by some tung oil and a jute handle.  I've shot a few dozen arrows out of it, it has good manners for a semi-bendy handle bow.  Pulls 58lb@27", F/D info is as follows:

7" brace
9"  =6 lb
11"=12
13"=18
15"=23
17"=28
19"=33
21"=38
23"=44
25"=51
27"=58 lb (my draw)
28"=61

Bow stats are: 59" n/n, 1.5" wide at handle, full width to within a foot of each end then tapering to 1/2" nocks.  4" handle area is slightly thicker and doesn't bend much.  I heat tempered the belly today, without putting it into reflex.

I made it fairly heavy since there was a thread on here about heavy oak bows so I thought I'd see what this twig would do.  The bow follows the string about 2", not a terrible result but I probably should've made the bow 50lb which is what I designed it for when I cut it out.  In looking at the full draw photo, I can see I need to make that outer upper limb bend a little more.  I certainly have the poundage to spare.

Here's the link to the album, I'll try and post the pics but I haven't had much luck on that.

I was sorely tempted to paint it but after the poor treatment I got from my watermelon bow, it wasn't happenin' this time.  So here it is in all its boringness.

 http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l200/62tomsawyer/oak%20bow/

[tom sawyer]

I'm getting better at getting things to floor tiller quickly. That used to be where I would spend days, in fact I wold often be burnt out by the time the tillering came around. Now I just hog all that wood that's not a bow right off. That includes getting closer with the bandsaw, as well as thinning quickly with the Surform. The Surform really takes the wood off fast. Doing this leaves more physical and mental energy for the important later stages. Though I still didn't tweak the tiller like I should've, need to set up a tiller tree again.

A little more on the bow. I as somewhat limited with respect to boards, since there is no Lowes or Home Depot in Hannibal. Sutherlands had a small selection, I found two possible boards that would make a bow. Both had good density. One was a 1x2, it had potential but the more I looked at it the more I didn't like the grain. The other was a 1x3 it had the best grain orientation, mostly plain-sawn and with good summer:spring ratio. The only bad thing was, the grain ran diagonal to the length and that prevented me from getting two bows out of it. Oh well this was an $8 bow. I oriented the back on the outside of the log, can't say about orientation to the top/bottom of the tree since both ends looked similar. And I could've made the bow 6" longer but I was testing out my advice on making working limbs the length of my draw, 27" x 2 = 54 plus a 4" handle area and an extra inch to make it an even number.

[George Tsoukalas]

The tiller is fantastic. I bet she really shoots fast and smooth. Jawge

[Dano]

Nice work Lennie, not boring at all
 

[Madpigslayer]

Hi Lennie! nice bow bud. (ok, so that isnt what I wanted to write, but I havent been around much, gotta keep things civil...haha)  

[gwhunter]

Lennie, your bow looks awsome!  I liked yours so much that I am having a go at this.  Total length - end of board to end of board is 58".  Yes, I cut it too short.  I wanted a 60#(really 55# - but I am trying to lie to myself) pull, but I will settle for 55#(really 50#).  Take 4" off for handle, that leaves me 54" of limbs.  BTW, limbs will be 1.5" wide(this is a board bow).  My question is, am I too optimistic on my bow weight.  Will 57" nock to nock support 55#, with minimal set?

[tom sawyer]

What draw length do you need?  You can get 50lb, but you might need to make it bend all the way through the handle to get only 2" of set.  Mine has over 2" of set, it would have been better at 50lb.  It still shoots quite well, I probably could've gotten similar performance with 5lb less poundage though.  It was hardly an optimal design, but was a fun experiment.

Those short bows, I can sit on the ground and shoot them canted almost sideways and get good accuracy.

[gwhunter]

I need 28" for complete draw.  I have no qualms with a completely benddy handle.  I am also no stranger to 2+ inches of set.  I think I might try to take a little off of the back the back to try and minimize the compression breakdown.  Not so much crown it but cut the corners off the board, as was discussed around here before.  
Who knows, I will try to take some pics, cause I know ya'll get a kick out of them.

[tom sawyer]

Doing a mild trapezoidal cross-section is a good idea.  I should've done that.  That and a bendy handle design and you'll be in business.  Plenty of pics would be great.

[Shakes.602]

"WaterMelon", thats Pink Right? I went to a Motorcycle Rodeo, back in the Day, and they had "Watermelon" Shirts. The Guy that Ordered those Shirts Never Did Live That One Down!

[tom sawyer]

Maybe, but in this case it was a bow painted like a watermelon.  Green back with yellow stripes, and a red belly with black seeds painted on it.  Originally painted like a garter snake but it looked more like a watermelon according to the art critics on this and other sites so I broke down and repainted the belly appropriately.

[Brian Halbleib]

That's a great job on a board bow!

-Brian
 www.bowyersjournal.com

[deerhunter191995]

im tryin to build a red oak 50 lbs desine

any tips