Sharpening Magunus Snuffers

[SEMO_HUNTER]

First of all these 3 blade 125gr. Snuffers shoot awesome from my Bear Grizzly recurve, so I really want to shoot these!
I've searched the broadhead sharpening threads and tried all the info I found on sharpening these Snuffers and while I can get them fairly sharp, they just don't seem to be scary sharp if you know what I mean.

Is it me, or the file I'm using? If you Magnus Snuffer shooters wouldn't mind sharing your experiences and techniques, tips, tricks, ect.
It would be much appreciated.

The best thing that has worked for me was to lay the new heads on the long flat part of my belt sander and touch all 3 sides evenly about 3 times around, not putting much pressure on them, but more just keeping them nice and flat to get the correct angle started. Then I work with a file about 10 strokes on each side until it starts to get sharp. Then I lightly buff on my buffing wheel to "Strop" the edge just a bit, about 3 swipes on each blade, then I rotate and do the other side.

If any of this sound wrong please let me know, but I'm leaning more toward the style of the file that I'm using.
What file do you all use for this task???

Thanks,
SEMO

[flyfish1]

a big mill bastard file will do the trick, using moderate pressure to very light pressure.

[smokin joe]

Here is how I sharpen them now after trying many methods:
-- I use a 6" chainsaw raker file (any 6" single cut file should be OK)
-- I file two blades at a time by laying the file across two of the blades and filing back to front with a diagonal stroke. This is easy if the heads are already mounted on shafts
-- I press the file fairly hard for 5 strokes per side
-- then 3 strokes per side -- again fairly hard -- then 2 strokes, then one
-- then with very light pressure, and keeping the pressure light is the key to making this work, I stroke each side 10 times, then 9 then 8, etc. until I get down to one stroke per side
-- I continue to stroke once per side until I have counted to 30, turning the blade to a new side after each stroke
-- If I am keeping a light stroke, really just the weight of the file, the blades are shaving sharp by now.

Try this, it works. Also, a 6" file is inexpensive and very portable.
Best wishes,
Joe

[mscampbell75]

I just got some new ones in last night and put an edge on a couple of them.  I would post pics, but I dont want to be responsible for cutting someones eye from looking at them.  They get scarry sharp.

I cant get them sharp w/ a file.  I've just dont have the magic with the file.

I have a Lansky sharperner.  I just use the stones.  I put the heads on an arrow that I cut approx. 10" long so I can hold it well. (screw in)

I lay arrow on table top w/ head hanging of the edge. The head stays stationary as I stope stone across and down the head. Use a Marker to black out all the edges to make sure I'm hitting all along the edge. I 1st use the coarse stone and start with 10 strokes each side w/ Medieum pressure for a few rounds on the head.  I  then back down on strokes/side for more rounds until I'm down to one stroke/side.   Do this untill I can run it down my arm and I can feel it wanting to catch my hair but not shave it. Note, ALL black marker should be gone from cutting edge by now.

Then I move to the fine stone.   Same as before w/ coarse stone but light pressure.  Work your way down from 10 strokes.  At this point, it normally will shave w/ some added pressure.

Then I strope backwards on the backs side of a piece of leather just a couple of times.

Next, I will use a ceramic rod, a do just as with stones.  Normally it doesnt take much.  Starting out at 5 stokes/side working my way down to one/side with very light pressure.  I watch the marks on the edges to make sure I'm hitting all the edge.

Back to the leather a few times to clean it up.

After that, I'm carefull how I handle them.  Usually I put on a glove to remove the from the arrow tip that I sharpen them on and placing them on my hunting arrow.  

This is what I've done thru trial and error.  And it works well for me.  Kind time consuming, but actually like seeing how sharp I can get them.  Bout 30min/bh.

Good luck to you.  Stay with it.

[Charlie Lamb]

Please excuse me if you already found these videos.
   Three blade sharpening

In your description I see one thing I'd change. That's where you said the blades "start" to get sharp on the file. You should be getting them "really sharp" on the file before going to the next step.

If your file is sharp (new) and wide enough to do two blades at once, then it's not the file.

The belt sander sure saves time in getting the bevels straight.

[fireman_3311]

I went to the X Block a couple years ago. Works great!! I do strop on leather to finish them though.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Well, it sounds like I need a new file?
I only have 2 that are small enough that I was working the blades with last night just as you all have mentioned, by hitting both blades at the same time and working them from back of blade to the tip. However, my files are old and that's probably why I couldn't get them any sharper with the file.
I am basically doing the same thing you all are doing with the leather except I'm using a buffing wheel and stropping the back edge of the blade to get them razor sharp.
After reading all the replies, I'm sure that I'm on the right track and just need a new file. I also have no problem leaving them sticky sharp with just the file because if I were in the field that would be the only means of sharpening on the fly in a pinch.

One last question.....have any of you ever used the diamond hone that they sell at 3rivers?? The one that's kind of egg shaped and about 6" long.
The video on there shows him using that after the file and seems to be the finishing touch that it needs?

Thanks for all the help guys, this site is the greatest! Lots of highly talented individuals here.

~SEMO~

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by Charlie Lamb:
Please excuse me if you already found these videos.
   Three blade sharpening

In your description I see one thing I'd change. That's where you said the blades "start" to get sharp on the file. You should be getting them "really sharp" on the file before going to the next step.

If your file is sharp (new) and wide enough to do two blades at once, then it's not the file.

The belt sander sure saves time in getting the bevels straight.

Thanks for the videos Charlie, I had not seen those yet. It always helps emensly to see a process rather than reading a description of it. I actually did try to do this with a larger file, but I didn't have one that was quite wide enough or the right style cutting surface so I stopped using it. I'm going to make a trip to the hardware store today and pick up the right ones. Things should go much smoother after I get the right tools for the job.
Thanks for all the help.  

[droptine82]

Hope you have better luck than me.  I switched to the stinger 2 blade and just replace the blades.  I worked on one head for over an hour and realized that I am not meant to be a sharpener!

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I just sold my 100gr. Magnus Stingers about a month ago because at the time I was planning on shooting the glue on Magnus 2 blades, but now that I've started making my own adapters for my cedar shafts....I kinda wish I had them back.
My Magnus Stinger 4 blades shot very, very well. I used them out of my compound bow at around 300fps. and they shot like a dart.

I think I'll get these Snuffers plenty sharp once I get my new files. I should have some results to post later tonight.

[anchorman]

I use a 14" file, you might have to order but they aren't that expensive. Pull the head from the tip to the handle. I usually go 10 then rotate then go 9  and so forth until you get the factory edge off then use a stone or a diamond steel doing the same thing all the while using med. to light pressure. Then use a leather stop and you should be good to go.