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Arrow flight question

Started by Cottonmouth, September 30, 2010, 07:44:00 PM

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0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Cottonmouth

Posted this in the Shooting Forum, but no responses.

Arrow nock appears to be kicking right out of the bow, but is left of point when stuck in target.  I shoot right handed.  Good groups otherwise.  Arrows too stiff?
"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea."  Robert A. Heilein

magnus

Maybe your side plate is worn and causing erratic arrow flight.
Just a guess I really don't know. Be patient the smart folks will chime in later I'm sure.

Magnus
Keeping the Faith!
Matt
TGMM Family of the bow
Turkey Flite Traditional  
mwg.trad@yahoo.com

Ward / Texas

Try shooting off of an elevated rest if you're shooting off the shelf.  I'd say either it's too stiff an arrow or interference/shelf contact. Hope this helps.
Ward

Friend

Bare shafting is great way to tune your bow.

There are numerous variables and many possible contributors could be the issue. There may be some on TG that may help if you will provide the following information. Provide as much information you can.

             List your bow model:
           Strike plate position:
                   Drw Wt rating:
         Your actual draw length:
         Type of shaft and model:
 shaft length(throat of nock to BOP):
                       Insert Wt:
                        Point wt:
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

Cottonmouth

List your bow model: Martin Jaguar
Strike plate position:+.25
Drw Wt rating:45@28"
Your actual draw length:28"
Type of shaft and model:GT 55/75
shaft length(throat of nock to BOP):30.5
Insert Wt:15
Point wt:200

Using a springy rest and shooting split fingered. I'm trying to  get a EFOC arrow.  I cant the bow to about 1 o'clock.  Thanks to all for you input!   :notworthy:
"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea."  Robert A. Heilein

Friend

Your shaft may be little week.

1. Try a 150 -175 grain point.

or

2. May need to cut 1/2-3/4 inch off of shaft.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

Ward / Texas

I agree with Friend. Bare shafting is the way to go.

crgaston

According to this...

 http://heilakka.com/stumiller/  

...you are stiff.  If you can figure out a way to get 290 up front, like a 165 gr glue-on head on a 125gr steel adapter, you should be closer.

And Friend is right... you should definitely bareshaft.
Always be reading

Cottonmouth

I can rig a 100 gr brass insert, and 200 gr point...will make them up tonight and get back to you, Thanks Everyone!!
"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea."  Robert A. Heilein

Friend

If your slide plate position is +.25, the you are way too stiff and the 100 grain insert should get you in the ball park.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

Cottonmouth

Ok, got the 100gr inserts, 200gr field tips, and bare shaft and fletched are grouping together BUT nock end of fletched still left, while bareshaft nock end are wayyyyyyy right...What now?
"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea."  Robert A. Heilein

stickhead

When you shoot your bare shafts how far are you shooting

Cottonmouth

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea."  Robert A. Heilein

slivrslingr

I think you need more weight up front, or switch to a 35/55, a 55/75 is pretty stiff for a 45# bow.

WPAtrapper

QuoteOriginally posted by slivrslingr:
I think you need more weight up front, or switch to a 35/55, a 55/75 is pretty stiff for a 45# bow.
What he said. I shoot about the same set up as yours and 3555's full length with 200gr up front fly great.
60" RER LX 46@28"


Friend

The impact points between the bare shafts and the fletched shafts is what is important. If both are grouping well together then move back from 12 yards to 20 yards and shoot the bare shafts versus fletched shafts. If they are grouping together at 20 yards, then you should be good to go. If not, then make the proper adjustments. Keep in mind that you can only tune as well as you can execute good and consistant form. The bottom line is how well your BH's shoot with respect to your fletched shafts. Seems after retuning my set-up for BH's, then I have better flight from both my fletched and bare shafts. Often times I forgo bareshafting and go straight to tuning my BH's relative to my fletched shafts.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

SveinD

I would also say you have to stiff an arrow..

According to Stu's calculator you can cut the arrows down to 30" and use a 100gn insert, keep the 200gn broadhead, and both values, bow and spine, are equal @ 41,5.

Hope this solves your problem  :)
Centaur 58" Glass XTL 40@28

~Those who believe in telekinetics, raise my hand~ Kurt Vonnegut

Cottonmouth

with everyone saying too stiff, I put some 250 gr field tips on my arrows and shot again.  This is the way they are grouping now, should I go to
300 gr?

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs054.ash2/36070_1191214197368_1738773085_377863_6683046_n.jpg
"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea."  Robert A. Heilein

SteveB



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