My new doug fir shafts ......

[LookMomNoSights]

Just got a bunch in the mail.   I have never worked with this wood before,  always PO Cedar.  I marked all my knock ends,  then put my taper tool to 2 of them (tru center taper tool).   That tools has done me alot of right so far with the cedar,  but I dont know about this doug fir!  Seems like a gritty,  brittle wood compared to what Im used to.....are most using a woodchuck or similar sanding set up for this wood instead of a taper tool?   I also notice that when I work with Cedar,  I get very uniform knock tapers.   So far Im 2 for 2 with not so uniform with this new wood ....kinda sloppy uneven bevel.   Shafts are AWESOME tho ....talk about straight and beautiful grain!  Im sure everyone knows where they came from!  Ill be buying lots more ....and a sanding set up if I gotta!  What are your thoughts?      

[meathead]

I have the same problem.  Doug fir kind of breaks apart with a tru center.  I use a disk sander to grind my tapers.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I use a sander with mine. I had a pencil sharpener type taper that didnt work at all.  I love Doug Fir.  My only problem now is with the second dozen I received, one shaft had a flaw and broke clean in half.

The only other ones I have broke now have been on hero shots or hitting other arrows in the target.

[stringstretcher]

For anyone using Fir shafts, are you finding them to break more easily when hitting something other than what you are shooting at?  Just a curious question.  I also use a sander, woodchuck to do my tapers.

[LookMomNoSights]

Thats what Im saying!
More info people,  please!  I dont have a sanding set up yet and Ill be able to hit the woods on the 18th ....so I have just a little bit of time to do some shopping if I have to.  New bow in the mail and want to crank out a couple primo matched dozens for it!  

[magnus]

I think they are very durable. The only breaks I've expierienced is whe. I've hit rocks or tree trunks when missing tree rats. I sand the tapers as well. Quick and easy. Love my firs!

Magnus

[Bjorn]

I am really impressed with the quality of Doug Fir from Surewood.
It is very straight and consistent spine. You do need a sander or Woodchuck to grind the tapers. The shafts are typically a little heavier than Cedar, and tougher too.

[LookMomNoSights]

Very helpful input guys and I appreciate it so much!  Ive been wanting a woodchuck anyway,  so I guess its time to "pull the trigger" (ironic!)
So  now I have another question .....should I purchase extra sanding discs as well and if so how many (how much life do you get out of 1?)  What grit also,  if I have a choice?
Everyone is such a huge help .....thanks again!

[LookMomNoSights]

Also,  the shafting is indeed SureWood .....AWESOME!      

[magnus]

I purchased a disc/belt sander at harbor freight for around $80.00 and a taper block from 3 rivers. Works great and I can grind feathers as well. A lot more usefull than a wood chuck. I use 120 grit paper for both. Good luck and have fun.

Magnus

[Bjorn]

Raptor has the best deal on Woodchucks right now. I just buy small sheets if sticky backed sand paper-3in x 8in at ACE hardware. It is 32 grit. It lasts a while depending on the hardness of the wood and the amount of glue and gunk.

[portugeejn]

If you want the tapers smooth you will need to sand them rather than use a Tru-Taper tool.  I sold my Tru-Taper when I started using Shurewood shafts exclusively.  In my experience they are pretty tough shafts.  

In my fairly short experience (four or five years now) I have made and used arrows of PO Cedar, Sitka Spruce, and Doug Fir.  The Doug Fir has been the toughest for me.

RonP

[Fletcher]

I'll agree with Magnus, a taper block and a disc/belt combo sander is the way to go.  I believe it works better than a Woodchuck, costs less and you have a very usable tool in the sander.  I have a couple of the taper guide blocks in stock; KK and 3RA usually have them, too.  Bill Bonczar at Allegheny Mtn Arrow Woods makes them.

[Dave Bowers]

I have seen this brittle, gritty texture in cedar before. IMO I think its due to how long the shafts sit around at the manufacture and or distributor. And how sharp your blades are on your taper tools.

Just an observation..

[Fletcher]

Fir just doesn't like any cutting tools.  Sitka spruce is very similar.  Both work best when sanded or ground.

[snag]

Dave, if they are Surewood shafts you can throw out the notion that these were sitting around at the manufacturer or distributors too long. The demand is so high for these excellent wood shafts they don't sit around.
Yes, they benefit from grinding the nock and tip tapers. But that is due to the strong growth rings in the shafts. Best shafts out there!
I remember the first Sweetland Forgewood shafts I bought. Tried a Tru-Taper tool on one...so dense and hard it just took some chips out of the shaft. Bought a Woodchuck and fixed that. Still using it on Surewoods.

[BowHuntingFool]

I use the Surewood shafts, love em! Straight as can be and very consistent in weight. I just use a pencil sharpener type to taper the nocks and tips, never had a problem out of dozens of shafts!

[snag]

Maybe someone needs to replace the blade in the sharpner????

[Davt]

I have used fir for a number of years and really like it. Don't try and cut tapers though, it is nearly impossible. I use a woodchuck sander.

[Mike Vines]

I just dipped my first set of doug fir shafts this evening after getting home from hunting.  They are somewhat heavier than cedar, take stain well, and are amazingly straight.  This set is gonna be donated to The Michigan Longbow Associations Winter Banquet.  I've dubbed them the "Turkey Tamers"