Forward handle bows..Pros vs Cons

[Zradix]

Hello,

I'm sorry if this has been covered over and over again. I tried a few searches and couldn't find anything but a passing comment on the subject.
Maybe I'm asking the question wrong...

Anyway, been looking at bows..   :rolleyes:

What are the advantages and disadvantages of a forward handle long/flat bow.

I'm looking at lost creek, shrew etc.

I've shot straight risers like Bear Kodiac.
I've shot back handled bows ( reflexed or deflexed..not sure the term) like a SWC sidewinder or Chek mate longhorn.

I have a tendancy to torque my bow from time to time. Is there a design that helps with this or makes it worse?
More practice is the REAL way I know.

Seems like you'd gain brace height with forward handle and lose speed.
Do you gain lots of forgiveness for this setback?

Thanks for the help all.

   

[COLongbow]

My forward handled Lost Creek seems to be enhanced in pointability, moreso than a traditional longbow. Also, I used to own a slightly RD longbow with a standard riser section and longbow grip. I would torque the grip often, resulting in a kick off the shelf and squirrely arrow flight. Just couldn't get the hang of gripping it correctly.

No such problems with the grip on my LC. Don't have to think about it, just pick it up and shoot it!

[bornagainbowhunter]

Forward handles will make a person tend to torque the bow less.  That being said, I shoot "D" style longbows.    

God Bless,
Nathan

Even if a bow is forward handled, one can still twist them enough to mess up the shot. the key is does the grip sits right in your hand.  I cannot think of a thing I would change about the grip of my wife's Lost Creek NAT, the little bugger is fast and accurate to boot.

[Crash]

In theory a foward handle bow will reduce the effects of torque due to the higher braceheight and the arrow being on the string for a shorter period of time.  As stated earlier, you can still torque the bow but if you find a grip design that "fits" you, then you will probably find that less of a problem.  Once your form is better, you shouldn't need to worry about it as much.  Best advice that has ever been given is to shoot as many different bows as you possibly can to find the one or ones that fit you the best.  You can adapt yourself to a bow, but it is usually easier to have a bow that just fits from the beginning.

[Pon]

Pro: they look cool   :cool:

[Sixby]

the EagleWing is a foreward riser that has a 6 1/2 in brace. You get the speed plus the controlability of the foreward riser. Check out my webpage to see the bow. God Bless and have a wonderful day. Steve

[Zradix]

My problem is I CANNOT lay a grip along my palm as many do.
Has to do with a wrist injury that never healed right.

I have to shoot with a very straight wrist.
With the web of my hand being the only contact with the bow.
Darned thumb can really move the bow around...

[Zradix]

Sixby ...

Your bows look extremely nice!
I didn't see any prices on your page.
I have to admit..they look way out of my price range....please read as a compliment.

Thank you

[chopx2]

Given the description of your physical injury, you might be better served by a high wrist grip like is available on a lot of recurves. That design puts the pivot point on your webbing rather than the base of your thumb.

Also try a wrist sling. It allows you to shoot without using your fingers to grip the bow. I found it did wonders for my self confidence in using a light grip to reduce bow hand torque from clutching the bow on release. I just use a couple finger tips lightly on the front of the riser and curl the other 2 under my palm and I have a lot less torque and haven't dropped the bow.

[onewhohasfun]

A bow with the contact point of the arrow on the shelf directly above, or in line with the deepest part of the grip will have the least ill effect of torque.  Almost impossible to acheive with a straight gripped D shape bow.

[JRY309]

Also a forward handle bow allow someone with a long draw to shoot a shorter bow.A 60" Super Shrew for someone with a 30" will be alot easier to shoot then a 60" Hill style bow with a 30" draw.

[Zradix]

Should have included that.
I draw about 27.5"

[Butch Speer]

Zradix,
I shoot a Lost Creek. 60" 47# at my 27" draw. The thumb pad is all I use. Can't shoot it with a full heel down. Shoots pretty squirrely that way. Leave your hand loose & relaxed. Fantastic bow.

[limbolt]

Zradix,I too have a fused wrist and a short draw,I shoot a Super Shrew and a Dwyer Endeavor with a wrist sling using the web of my thumb.
Works great for me.

[Zradix]

Thanks Guys!!

Just hate to throw away more $$$.
I'd like to shoot all kinds of bows before I buy but as you all know that can be pretty difficult.

Might be time to try a forward handle.

I would think a forward handle would give you less of a chance for arm slap too.

[horatio1226]

I love my JD Bery Taipan forward handled longbow.

 
 

[PowDuck]

One advantage I've found FOR ME is that my Shrew does not slap my bow arm upon release. All my other bows do. I've got a Big Jim Thunderchild should arrive tomorrow. I'll let you know how it works out.

[Zradix]

PowDuck..

I've wondered about that.
I thought That extra inch or so in brace ht might help with that.
I normally don't have a problem with it, but I do have to cinch down my winter clothes/coat pretty tight so as not to interfere with the string.

Thanks for the info all!!!
   

[LEWIS VADEN]

I have a JK Traditions Kanati.  Lots of pro's but no cons as far as I'm concerned.