grizzly sharpening help

[KyleAllen]

Alright i finally got on the grizzly band wagon and bought some from a gentleman on here. I read the how-to threads in the archives and got to work on em. I realized quickly that that was way to much work so i designed and built a jig to use with my stationary belt sander. Oh it works sweet! You can take a new head and put a proper bevel on it in about a minute. I'll take some pics and maybe do a build along for that later. But anyways, i'm getting a really big flimsy burr that i can't just polish off with a steele. It just folds one way and then the other. I have to peel it off the blade by hand but cant always get a hold of it. So what's going on? I would think the steel is too soft. I'm keeping it wet while grinding btw.

HELP!

[Ray Hammond]

smooth leather strop

[KyleAllen]

do i need and actual strop or can i just use a heavy piece of leather? Am i just trying to fold that burr back and forth on the strop until it breaks off?

[chopx2]

A heavy piece of leather glued to a wood block works great.

You can also try cardboard. I'll use the cardboard if the edge isn't exactly like I like and then the leather on mine.

[KyleAllen]

looked at stropping on youtube. Looks like i will need an abrasive compound on strop. Correct?

[Kris]

Bring a fine mill bastard file (or diamond hone or other) to bear against the non-beveled side to remove that burr, then polish.  I actually use 400 & 600 grit wet/dry (black stuff) sand paper wetted down onto a marble slab for sharpening plane blades (Wood Craft store).  I use a KME jig to sharpen the primary bevel, I do not end up with a burr like you do, but I do "touch" the opposite side to complete the edge by simply flipping the blade on the KME (slick).  I then polish the primary bevel like a mirror and just run the length of the non-beveled side with very light pressure on a buffing wheel.

Contact "Sharpster" here on TradGang or at KME, he'll have a different take on it.  You can get the new Grizzly's precision sharp, the old ones too, but the new ones have better bevels out of the box and their temper is spot on.

Good luck,

Kris

[BobCo 1965]

Don't get the head too hot using the belt sander. I also use the belt sander just to get the initial angle set. But I also have some cool water to quench the heat after just a few seconds. I then grap another head while the other is cooling.

[KyleAllen]

i am dunking the heads in water every few seconds to keep cool. May need to do like Kris said and put a small bevel on flat side to get burr off.

[BobCo 1965]

All I do for the burr is to use some very fine wet/dry (use it wet) emery on a flat surface like glass and sand the non-bevel side flat. You'll evenually get the burr removed (usually in pieces) that resemble foil.

[Ray Hammond]

Kyle,

Don't make it harder than it has to be.

Take a piece of leather, place it on the table (mine's glued to a board)

If you don't have that, just use cardboard laid flat on a table.

If you don't have that, you can use blue jean material...laid flat on a table.

DO NOT BEVEL THE FLAT SIDE OF THE HEAD

The very first thing you do when setting up the head to sharpen is FLATTEN the flat side....because its NOT flat when you get it in the package, believe me.

Work the head back and forth, and when you see that foil edge come off like a peel on an orange, S-T-O-P.

don't do it even one more time.

[KyleAllen]

Ray, cut and dry. I like it!

[Kris]

Kyle,

Most guys complement the primary bevel with a very slight "cleanup" bevel on the opposite side.  This just removes any...well, burrs that occur from the primary sharpening.  Don't get caught going back and forth though, try to keep that cleanup bevel on the non-primary side for the very last, otherwise you'll end up chasing your edge. You'll know what I mean when you do it a few times.  I would also caution you on the heat build-up and quenching as to changing the temper of the broadhead, as several member have already done so, that is why I stick to non-powered tools.  Having said that though, I have thought of using a belt sander as well, but now will likely just stick to my KME.

Kind Regards,

Kris

[Ray Hammond]

DO NOT BEVEL THE FLAT SIDE OF THE HEAD

The very first thing you do when setting up the head to sharpen is FLATTEN the flat side....because its NOT flat when you get it in the package, believe me.

Work the head back and forth, and when you see that foil edge come off like a peel on an orange, S-T-O-P.

don't do it even one more time.

[Kris]

Ray,

I agree with you on flattening the non-beveled side and have done that in the past, despite what I wrote above.  I may try what you suggest again.

I should maybe not say that I bevel the non-beveled side, what I really do is just polish that side, slightly.  I end up with a shaving sharp edge.  If I cut or nick my fingers, even when wrapped with tape or Band-Aid, can resume bleeding hours and even a day later when unwrapped.  Read Ashby’s article “Getting an Edge on Success”.

Abowyer also cleans-up the non-beveled side like I suggest and their BH's are EXTREMELY sharp, so I kind of go back and forth.

Kris

[KyleAllen]

Well i do not feel that i am damaging the temper. I am holding the head and jig with my bare hands. If it's not getting too hot too hold then i think i am safe. Skin starts to burn around 140 degrees fahrenheit.

I'm stuck at work at the moment but will try all things mentioned when i get home. If at any point i damage the temper, i will just retemper them. One of the perks of having a knife smith 2 miles down the road.

[J-dog]

Are the new grizzs as hard as the old ones???

I have some 160s coming (my favorites) I use paper wheels after flattening the backs, then strop on cardboard. usually poppin hair within minutes.

J

[Kris]

Sounds good Kyle, you're on top of it!  I speak from my past concerning temper, as I know that I have affected the temper of some of my BH's, ignorantly I might.  I have made them brittle to the point where edges roll back and break, etc..  Anyway…..

Kris

[Kris]

J-dog,

The new Grizzly's temper is not as hard as some of the old ones...I should say they are consistent and very sharpenable.  Years ago (10-15 yrs.) I had some 160 gr. Grizzly's that a brand new mill bastard couldn't put a scratch on, so I know what you're talking about.  The new ones should be right around R52 (Rockwell hardness), I believe.  You will not be disappointed!

Kris

[J-dog]

Yeah Kris - those were the good ones! HAH!

Nah really they were a  pain in the behind if ya wanted to do the 25 thing like Ashby says. I figured many just got sharpened as is out of the package.
Kinda waiting to see some of the new ones - hopefully tommorrow they will come in.

Thanks

J

[Sharpster]

Kyle,

Top secret PM sent. (I can't let Ray know how I do it)...  

Ron