Wensel woodsman opinions

[Terry Green]

Originally posted by thunder1:
I never tried them but I watched a friend bend enough of them to know that tip is week. Noisy things from time to time. I remember that he had a couple that would whistle through the air.

Yep....he must not have pyramided them....the are weak out of the pack and need to modify them...which is a cinch to so while sharpening.  I've yet to have one whistle...but then again, I get mine mounted straight.

Now maybe the thread is not worthless after all....we now know to modify the tip, and mount them straight...which all broadheads should be mounted straight anyway right?

[joe ashton]

Yes I do like  woodsman

Joe

[Bowhunter4life]

I used them on deer and bear for a couple of seasons about 10 years back.  Worked well, but just blew through everything I shot and good blood trails...  Went to a bit wider head for thin skinned critters... bigger hole makes for more blood on the ground and shorter trails...  

Still have a bunch and wouldn't hesitate to use them if I had any concerns with penetration from the wider heads I'm using on bigger critters.  

Oh, and yep, I agree the tip needs to be worked over a bit to get rid of the "needle" point or it will fold over easily.

 
 

[Smallwood]

Ty ,
I was thinking the same thing Terry Green and a few others have mentioned, maybe your arrows aren't tuned to your bow setup so your not getting the penetration that you should be.
How do your bare shafts fly? Here is some good info on tuning...
 http://www.acsbows.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/tuninglongbowsandrecurves.pdf

[Wolfie2nd]

Well for those of you who don't like em you can send em my way.......

[Downwind Lefty]

I've never had a penetration problem with them and they've always done a geat job.

Now I did buy some of the new design this year and for some reason they "hiss" when I shoot them. I've never had that issue before and I've tried them on every bow I own with a bunch of different arrow combinations (thinking maybe it's a flight issue) but to no avail. I've tried undersplined, oversplined, perfectly splined - those that I've hunted with for years - including the old WW, but these guys just make noise.

I know some say live with it (I've heard it referred to as the "hiss of death") but I spend too much time trying to make my bows quiet to accept it. And for some reason I can't bring myself to spend that kind of money on a broadhead then I have to change the design.

I'm not sure what to do with them.

[Dustin Waters]

the new elites that they are selling are some super heads.  I havent had a chance to run the business end into a deer but, I have complete confidence they will do the job.  They are much easier to sharpen than the snuffers in my opinion, and seem to fly a little better to.  Just my thoughts.

[Blaino]

I don't have an opinion on WW.  A fella told me something once that stuck.... "only 2 kinds of bh sharp ones and the ones you practice with."

[Bill Turner]

I prefer to hunt with two blade heads, but if I were to hunt with a 3 blade head it would be a WW. Killed a nice deer with a razor sharp WW a few years ago with my Massie "Longhorn". Good penetration and good blood trail. I found the WW to be easy to sharpen using the Charlie Lamb technique here on TG.  

[smokin joe]

Terry is right in my opinion. I'll add that most available broadheads are good if they are really sharp. Get a WW sharp and you won't be disappointed with the results.

[30coupe]

Get them sharp, put them where they belong, and they will leave an incredible blood trail. One could say the same for most broadheads. It is an excellent, proven design, as is the Zwickey Delta, Grizzly, etc. They've all been around for quite some time and all have taken mountains of game. It comes down to personal choice and which you can best get scary sharp.

As George L. Herter used to say, "They kill stuff dead, and you can't get deader than dead."

[Bobhat]

I began using the WW heads 3 years ago.  Two bucks I killed with them were a pass through and the deer died within 60 and 80 yds yds.  2 weeks ago I shot another buck.  The shot was at about 7yds but I hit a bit too far forward. The head penetrated just behind the nape of the neck and drove into the spinal column knocking the deer right down. I had to finish it off with one to the chest.  I'm impressed with these heads in the way they penetrate, cut and fly.  Over the years I've used Bear heads, Rocky, Wasp, Muzzy, and so on.  I don't see myself swtiching from the WW heads.  My 2 cents

[aquafang]

Originally posted by Bill Turner:
I prefer to hunt with two blade heads, but if I were to hunt with a 3 blade head it would be a WW. Killed a nice deer with a razor sharp WW a few years ago with my Massie "Longhorn". Good penetration and good blood trail. I found the WW to be easy to sharpen using the Charlie Lamb technique here on TG.    

Where can I find this technique?  I'd like to try it.  thanks

[Charlie Lamb]

Aquafang... here's the link to the tutorial in the "How To" section.
   Wensel Sharpening

Lots of good stuff on that forum for those who haven't visited it.

[Bill Carlsen]

The only "problem" I've ever had with the WW is the common tip weakness which makes them prone to curling. As Terry explained...a very easy fix. I would be using them  except for the fact that I got a really good deal on 3 doz. Razorcaps and fell in love with them. They are basically the same head as the  WW except they are stainless and weight adjustable (I really like stainless steel).

The very first thought that I had when I started to read this was the issue of sharpness. I suspect that many lost animals are lost to less than really sharp heads. My goal is to get a head razor/shaving sharp. I know guys who kill lots of game using two blade heads or even multi blade heads that prefer the file sharpened blade that is somewhat rough and don't really  shave hair. They get blood trails but IMO the trails are way too long. The shortest trails I have seen are almost always with broadheads that are shaving sharp. Just this year my wife and I both killed fork horns. Both shots were less than optimal. Laura thought she hit her buck in the back of the lungs. She had actually hit him in front of the right hip. The Razorcap penetrated all the way thru and poked out the off side shoulder taking out the liver and left lung. The deer lived about 5 seocnds after the hit and the blood trail was just fine. My buck was hit right in back of the liver. Next morning we found him after he left us a nice blood trail. The reason I think is that the heads were extremely sharp. Get a Woodsman to shave and shooting straight and even a borderline hit is going to give you great penetration and enough blood to find the animal. At least that has been my experience.

[Sheepshooter]

What good is a dead critter if there is no blood trail to find them? I used 2 blades for years and thankfully most of the animals died in sight. I was lucky to find the ones that didn't. I never once had a blood trail with a 2 blade and that's why I switched. With the WW I always had a blood trail a blind man could follow, but most of the critters fell where I could see them.

[Mint]

I've never had a problem taking game with them. I've gonethrough tough shields on some nice boar hogs and the blood trails have been great. I prefer the muzzy phanton nowsince I need a 200gr head.

[varmint101]

Awesome heads.  Killed 5 deer with them all passthroughs with a 60# longbow.  I usually don't mess with the tip until it curls.  And when I say tip curling I don't mean the whole thing, it's just the fine needle point that bends over.  When it happens just pyramid it real quick and you won't have that problem again.

The Elites I'd imagine are tougher than the originals.  I've tried the VPA's and they are quicker to sharpen and are solid as a rock.

Regardless, shot placement and sharp kills period.

[Chuckton]

Last night I sharpened a 3 pack of WW originals I just received from 3Rivers. I followed the 3Rivers instructions which seem to match Charlie's pretty close. The first step on my 14" file resulted in a LOT of metal being taken off to get a flat edge all the way around. I had to work them REALLY hard to get past the first step.

After that, I worked them on medium and fine stones, followed by a diamond hone and a leather stop. I took the needle point off as well.

Half of my left forearm is now bald. The method apparently works.

[RC]

They have worked good for me too. Since reading this post I`ve decided to put some on and shoot my next critter with them.Lord Willing,RC.