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Author Topic: Switching Arrows to wood  (Read 305 times)

Offline Wayde Burke

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Switching Arrows to wood
« on: November 08, 2010, 12:07:00 PM »
I am in the process of switch my recurve over from aluminum to wood arrows and would like to hear some advice from some of you guys. I have a 65lbs Sky recurve shooting 2415 xx75 arrows. I am going to purchase the wooden arrow kit from 3rivers archery to determine the correct arrow size. What point weight do you guys recommend, and any other advice would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!!

Online Stumpkiller

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2010, 12:35:00 PM »
What do you plan on hunting?  I stay with two-edged 125gr. as I feel two holes in a hide are better than one.  The lighter arrows also give me a flatter trajectory - all else being equal.  If I was after something larger than whitetail I'd likely go with a heavier arrow/arrowhead.
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Offline lpcjon2

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2010, 12:41:00 PM »
125gr or 160gr keep it simple.Fletching I would do 5" shield or parabolic. Give Rick at the feathered shaft a call he can help,he is a sponsor.
 http://www.thefeatheredshaft.com/
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Offline Zradix

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2010, 01:29:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by lpcjon2:
....Give Rick at the feathered shaft a call he can help,he is a sponsor.
  http://www.thefeatheredshaft.com/  
x3
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

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Offline Bjorn

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2010, 02:11:00 PM »
I'd be concerned about the amount of spine you are going to need. If you draw 28" you are going to need easily 85# and likely more than that. Surewood Doug Fir would be a good choice for high # 11/32 shafting. Definitely get a test pack whatever you decide. I would get 85/90, 90/95 and 95/100.

Offline LimbLover

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2010, 03:45:00 PM »
I think you are going to be well into the 23/64" range unless you get them tapered. I agree with Bjorn, you are probably going to need an 85# spine or more depending on point weight.

Try Chundoo, I think you may like it and it is cheaper. I'm having no problems with it and I just made the jump.

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Offline Wayde Burke

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #6 on: November 08, 2010, 06:23:00 PM »
I am only pulling about 27", I haven't checked the weight at that draw yet. I've noticed that traditional archers seem to favor more point weight, I'm thinking 145 grs. Will be hunting deer, and pigs sometimes. Thanks Guys !!

Offline Fletcher

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #7 on: November 08, 2010, 08:36:00 PM »
Assuming that the 65 lbs at 28" is correct, you will be pulling about 62 at 27".  I'm not to familiar with the Sky bow, but how deep the shelf is cut will have a big effect on your needed spine; the deeper it is cut, the stiffer the shaft will need to be.  Cut to center, add 10 lb; cut past center 3/16" (center shot) add 20+.  Using a different method and figuring center shot, I calculate 87 lb spine for a 28" arrow and 125 gr point.  A good option would be to contact Sky/Jim Belcher.  He knows his bows and should be able to give you some good advice.

You can shoot whatever point weight you like, just tune the bow and arrows to shoot them.  At 60+ lbs, you will have plenty of oomph.  I prefer the heavier points, 160+, as they seem to shoot better for me and I like the extra FOC.  The heavier points do require a little more spine.
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Offline Swamp Yankee

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #8 on: November 08, 2010, 08:52:00 PM »
Well, I was going to say just convert the 2415 spine to an equivilent wood shaft, except I can't find that size on any chart.  Any chance there's a typo there?  If you already know what shoots well, it seems to me the simplest solution would be to do the conversion.
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Offline Kip l Hoffman

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #9 on: November 08, 2010, 09:06:00 PM »
If you are talking about a Sky Hawk made by Earl Hoyt after he split with Hoyt/Easton, just get some 65-70# spined POC.  Use a 125 two bladed head and 5" full helical feathers.  I had a Sky Hawk and they shot fine for me.  I use a tab instead of a glove.  The tab is two layers of 1/8th inch thick leather.  Home made of course.  I think tabs give you a cleaner release and you can wear it inside of your mittens when it is cold.

Offline Benny Nganabbarru

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2010, 06:16:00 AM »
I shoot a 65# @ 28" BW PCHx and a 66# @ 28" pair of Silvertips, and I draw 29.5". My arrows are 30" BOP, and wear 160 grain broadheads / points. I use 95/100# Douglas fir, but have also used 105/110# out of the same bow, with no ill effects. I truly believe it is not much of a problem at all to go too stiff, but it absolutely is a problem to go too weak.
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Offline Rob DiStefano

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Re: Switching Arrows to wood
« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2010, 09:44:00 AM »
worth repeating ...

i love the look, feel and smell of wood arrows, no matter what the genus of wood is used.  i still build and shoot woodies, too.

imo, what matters most about wood types for arrows is mass consistency, ease of straightening, durability.  almost all hardwoods will make good arrows (don't forget grass arrows - cane and bamboo!).  

however, for working on yer shooting form, for dialing in your accuracy - particulary for newbies - stick with carbon or aluminum shafting!
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 ... and my 1911.

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