Real light lb bows

[RonD]

Rob, I agree with you 100% about shooting and drawing the most holding weight one can. I also like and agree with your statement about light holding weights and "CRITICL BOWHUNTING". There are essential decisions that the low draw weight and short draw length shooter must keep in mind when deciding to hunt with the setup they have chosen. That concept, "CRITICAL BOWHUNTING" probably should be a part of our everyday vocabulary when it comes to bowhunting, no matter what the draw weight and draw length.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by RonD:
Rob, I agree with you 100% about shooting and drawing the most holding weight one can. I also like and agree with your statement about light holding weights and "CRITICL BOWHUNTING". There are essential decisions that the low draw weight and short draw length shooter must keep in mind when deciding to hunt with the setup they have chosen. That concept, "CRITICAL BOWHUNTING" probably should be a part of our everyday vocabulary when it comes to bowhunting, no matter what the draw weight and draw length.

yes indeed, ron.  and, imo, the lighter one goes (holding draw weight), the more critical 'critical bowhunting' becomes ...

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Originally posted by RonD:
That concept, "CRITICAL BOWHUNTING" probably should be a part of our everyday vocabulary when it comes to bowhunting, no matter what the draw weight and draw length.

Exactly! I was always taught to take only high percentage "gimme" shots. Over the last 26 seasons I've hunted with draw weight from 40 to 67, and my choice of shot selection has always been the same.

[buckeye_hunter]

Here are some links on the subject... Enjoy

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=095021#000014

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=090821

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=095021;p=2#000025

[ksbowman]

Rob, I with you 100%. I've always shot the heavist bow I could shoot accurately. When I turned 59 I moved up in weight instead of down.I get a lot better release and better trajectory. This helps with errors made in yardage also. I am not a big guy. I am 6' and weigh 170, so really I'm skinny, but at 60 years old I am shooting a 64# bow.If I hit bone this gives me a better chance of getting around or thru it. If a person has physical ailments that prevent him from using a heavier bow I understand, but I also know we have a responsibility to the animals we hunt to do the best we can.

[buckeye_hunter]

Go over to Pete Wards site and read about his friend's moose that he took with a 43# bow. I'm not judging that decision, just stating it happened.

It was a HIGHLY skilled/acomplished hunter that pulled that off and that is something to consider.

Personally, I am noticing a Cordovan tab is allowing me to shoot heavier bows more comfortably. I am also not saying you should shoot heavier. It is just something I noticed that made me more comfortable shooting heavier bows.

I'm still having a bit of trouble with 45# being a "really light" bow. I shoot weights from 41-46# and all will do the job for me on big game if I do my part choosing heavy arrows, sharpening heads and placing the shot properly. Having said that, I don't expect to ever be able to hunt Moose or big bears with my traditional tackle. To me, "really light" is 35# and under, fine for small game, marginal otherwise.

[Rob DiStefano]

one thing that terry green and i have talked about extensively in the past are concerns about threads such as this that might be construed as in some way promoting or 'blessing' the lighter holding weight side of trad bowhunting.  therefore ...

trad gang does not endorse 'going light' for the sake of light holding weight itself, and we urge trad bowhunters to employ as much bow holding weight as can be readily controlled for consistent accuracy under hunting conditions.

'going light' simply means using a stickbow that's of less holding weight than you normally, accurately, could utilize.

and do please be aware of the proper gear and bow holding weights for hunting larger and/or 'tougher' critters.

thank you.

[RonD]

I don't think the membership on this forum shoots below what they can hold at a maximum and I certainly would not advocate shooting a lighter weight bow for the sake of going light. That defeats the whole purpose of hunting. For those of us here shooting lighter weight bows and having lower draw lengths I am of the opinion that we are very selective in the species we hunt and those we do hunt we are very selective in the effective ranges chosen when shooting at an animal. I believe the membership of this forum are very ethical people as well as hunters. For me, the only species I hunt are hogs, and even in that regard I am very selective in the size of hog harvested and the shooting range with which I am most comfortable. Of equal importance to the out of necessity lighter weight bow hunter is the tuning of the bow and shooting proficiency. I also think this is part of the selection process in choosing a custom bow that fits the shooter and gives them maximum performance in the hunting situation. I don't think the intent of this thread is to advocate lighter weight bows for the sake of a lighter weight in the hunting situation simply because it is easier. As one of the members pointed out above, we have a responsibility to the animals we hunt and the tradition that makes traditional bowhunting traditional.

[Al Dean]

If a person shoots 60# bow at 28" with B-50 and I shoot a 50# bow at 30" with D-97, I probably get more bang for the buck.  Then make the 50# a recurve and the 60# a longbow and you have a bit more.  Much more to this equation than draw weight.  That being said I believe if you are going hunting big game take a hunting bow," The most weight you can shoot well".

[liv'nonaprayer]

No weight limit here in Mo.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I guess I'll keep his around when I need to buy my next bow.

After all, I know I can get at least 2 shots off of an 80 lb bow.        

This debate will end the same way it started.  With a question.

I think Rob's comment about Hunters being critical about the shots they take, was the best advice on this thread.

Now go lift weights and and buy heavy holding weight bows. You owe it to your game to stay in shape physically and mentally.    

Happy Hunting!

[smokin joe]

It takes some time and effort to figure out one's individual ideal bow weight. In my humble opinion, that is a bow that you can handle consistently and accurately when a shot presents itself.

In my neck of the woods a shot will generally present itself after a long wait on stand. First shot accuracy with cold muscles and no warm up will call for a bow that is a little bit lighter in draw weight than what I can shoot after I have warmed up.

I spend time going out into the yard and taking one shot and evaluating how that one shot turned out.

Suffice it to say here that the most ethical individual draw weight is the maximum weight that I can handle for a single critical shot with cold muscles under typical hunting conditions. I have found that age and arthritis have has an effect on what that weight happens to be at this point in my life.

Besides, it is the broadhead that does the work and a sharp broadhead from a 45# bow is always preferable to a dull broadhead from a 60# bow. And, of course, I know that a sharp broadhead from a higher weight bow will give us a margin of error and a longer effective range.

Keep them sharp!
Joe

[Rob DiStefano]

right on the money, joe - great post, sir!

[Coach Jones]

No minimum weight in KS either.

[fishone]

Last year I took a 3.5 yr old buck that field dressed right at 200 lbs. Great Northern Critter Gitter, 43# @ 27" (my draw). Wood arrow, sharp 160 gr Stos, 15 yd shot. Recovery 150 yds. I also took a mature doe with the same set up. 20 yd shot and 80 yd. recovery. This yr. I shot a 7 pt. at 20 yds. that field dressed 190 lbs late in the rut, 42# @ 27", recurve. 150 yd. recovery. Heritage 90, 125 gr steel insert with a 130 gr Stos. The key is close shots, fine tuned arrows and extremely sharp broadheads. I can shoot
52# @ 27" but not nearly as good as a bow in the low to mid 40#'s at my draw length. Shoot what you shoot best!!! Have the arrow fine tuned and an extremely sharp broadhead.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by fishone:
Last year I took a 3.5 yr old buck that field dressed right at 200 lbs. Great Northern Critter Gitter, 43# @ 27" (my draw). Wood arrow, sharp 160 gr Stos, 15 yd shot. Recovery 150 yds. I also took a mature doe with the same set up. 20 yd shot and 80 yd. recovery. This yr. I shot a 7 pt. at 20 yds. that field dressed 190 lbs late in the rut, 42# @ 27", recurve. 150 yd. recovery. Heritage 90, 125 gr steel insert with a 130 gr Stos. The key is close shots, fine tuned arrows and extremely sharp broadheads. I can shoot
52# @ 27" but not nearly as good as a bow in the low to mid 40#'s at my draw length. Shoot what you shoot best!!! Have the arrow fine tuned and an extremely sharp broadhead.

good thinking and the right way to go!    

[HcSmitty]

Well ya see guys, i do shoot really light lbs on both the bows i shoot.  Ones a humingbird dynabow recurve 52lb @28.  N a "alex bow"????  longbow  50lb @27.  With my 24 1/2 draw the huminbird is right at 40lbs n some how the longbow is heavier at 42 lbs.  Both bows more than performed this year.  No complete pass throughs. first 3 deer were shot with the longbow n tha last 2 were with the dear ol huminbird that i love so dearly.  Im thinkin bout investing n a new bow.  Bein that im sooo small id like to buy a 58in recurve to git more performance.  And id like to try n go up in weight.  I just dont wanna sacrifice what all ive learned over the past 5 yrs just for more performance.  Id only be hunting deer n turkeys.  But i do kno if i go up n weight itd open up the possiblitys for elk and hogs n other game.  But im not to sure.  Im very satisfied with the way im shooting right now.

[Ia Hawkeye]

Back in he early 60's I remember reading in "Archery Mag" That many PA hunters (then one of the sates with the most bow hunters) Used their target bows (around 35# or so) for deer hunting and pig hunting. Many picturew ofsuccessful hunters. Light set-ups will do the job.
Having said that, I still think one should shoot as heavy a bow as one can handle comfortably.

My wife shoots 37 and 38 pound bows.  Every deer she has taken the arrow either passed through or was sticking out the other side, except for one two years ago. It was shot with a Darton that is 42 at 28, she draws a little over 26".  The deer jumped at the 14 yard shot and caught the deer in the ham.  The Grizzly stopped at the far left scapula, about half of the broadhead went into the scapula.  I make sure that her arrows fly perfect, 420 grain cedars, and the broadheads are as sharp as I can get them.  Her new bow has better cast, but she past on a buck this year that was too alert, so she let it pass by.  All of her deer have been taken from the ground, scared of heights, I think the ideal range and the angle has a lot to do with her penetration and recovery success.  
Something to be said that if one has a 45 to 50 pound longbow at 26" everyone will think it is enough, but a 38 pound NAT that puts out the same arrow faster is questionable.  The number on the bow is only a starting point, The arrow is more important in the lighter ranges.  It has to do its job perfectly. An arrow shot under drawn will fly loggy, if the person gets a predictable clean flight from a lighter bow, it will have more killing power than the bad flying short drawn arrow from the heavier setup every time.  I think that if we were honest with ourselves we can all agree that things like short draws happen when shooting at game when shooting more weight when that first cold shot is taken.  Byron Ferguson said that he likes to hunt with bows that are a little shorter to cover himself for that accidental short draw.