Adding weight to wood?

[Orion]

My experience has been the same as Fletcher's.  That also means that if you shoot a moderate weight bow or have a long draw length, you may "run out" of spine weight.  For example, if you shoot a 55#  high performance center cut or cut past center bow with a fast flite string at 29 inches, you'll probably need at least 70-75# spine to start with.  Bump the point weight to 200 or more and you'll need 85# or more spine..  That's just about impossible to find in 11/32 cedar, rare in11/32 Doug fir, etc.

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Fletcher:
I found with the internal weight that I needed roughly 1 lb spine for each 10 gr of added weight.  It seems that the further forward the weight is the more spine is needed.  With points, it is more like 1 lb for 7-8 gr of point weight.

If you want to try some of the lead wire, let me know.  It is heavier than the steel, very easy to work with and pretty cheap at $1/ft.

that being said, does centershot bows have a factor on this, or does it eliminate the need to go up in spine at all?

[Fletcher]

Grapes, I did most of my testing with a pronghorn LB, and don't have anything that is cut past center.  Adding point weight with a deep cut / center shot bow requires a heavier spine, so I would assume insert weight would, too.

[Jack Denbow]

My findings are the same as Rick's. I use a 1/8"X2" tungsten rod for footing which weighs 100gr. and I have to go up 10# in spine. My arrows weigh about 760gr. and hit with authority.
Jack

[Rik]

". . . hit with authority."

Ya gotta love the sound of that, pun intended.

[draco]

I soak the front 4 to 5" of my shafts in the Watco oil before I stain the rest. It adds about 30 grains to the front. Then I drill and add the nail.

[woodchucker]

I don't know, Maybe I'm missing something...

It just seems SILLY to me,to worry about adding weight to wood!!!   :confused:  

Carbon,is carbon... Aluminium,is aluminium.....

But wood????? There are so many DIFFERANT kinds of wood!!!!!

If you want a REAL heavy arrow, Go with Hickory,or Ash. Durability will rival an carbon shaft out there!!!!!

If you want a heavy FOC, you can ALWAYS go with a heavier broadhead.....

[Zradix]

Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
btw, you can substitute bamboo skewer for the nail and just stiffen up the front end behind the point without adding weight, where strength is needed to foil breaks.

I've been thinking about this too lately.
I really don't want to add more weight as I'm already at around 12.5grn/#.

Thought about using some carbon fiber tube or a solid carbon fiber rod.

You can get a 1/8" tube 24" long for $3.75.
Also a solid carbon fiber rod 24" long for $4.50.

[2treks]

TTT

[Zradix]

THANKS FOR THE REMINDER!!
Still wanted to try this.
Forgot about it...lol

[straitera]

Great info guys. I like the oil soak option. How does it change spine characteristics if at all? Can you seal or clear coat after?

[Orion]

Soaking in watco doesn't change the spine. I usually soak mine for a week or more, which pretty much permeates the entire arrow.  I don't put any other finish on these.  Have in the past.  It flakes off pretty easily.  Just doesn't adhere well to the oil based product underneath.

[SELFBOW19953]

I agree with Woodchucker.  If all you're after is a heavier arrow, not HFOC, go to a hardwood or laminated birch shaft.  Ramin wood also makes a very durable, heavy shaft.  With 160gr points, my 29 1/2" Superceders (barrell tapered poplar)weight between 650 and 700 gr.

[vintage-bears]

Just talking arrows WITHOUT broadheads here.

When I used to make wood arrows and wanted more arrow weight, I would occasionally dip the finished arrow (no fletch ofcoarse) in poly a second or third time. I have dipped them 4 times if I needed to.
You would be quite surprised how heavy you can get a wood shaft this way........Philip

[Trad-Man]

It isn't hard to just add weight.  The challenge seems to be in moving the weight forward and still having enough spine in the shaft to shoot well.  How does footing cedar or Fir to a hardwood like osage, hickoory or purplr heart impact the spine stiffness?  Is there a formula on a "per inch" basis?  And are the footings "wings" a part of the equation?

[deaddoc4444]

HOw much weight are you gaining  in the fir/surewoods   over cedar ? Grains per inch ? Are there any charts or at least a good estimate?

 One shaft I have not had the fortune of working with .
 thanx

[Javi]

Originally posted by deaddoc4444:
HOw much weight are you gaining  in the fir/surewoods   over cedar ? Grains per inch ? Are there any charts or at least a good estimate?

 One shaft I have not had the fortune of working with .
 thanx

I have some 11/32" 65-70's that weigh 480 grains for a 32" raw shaft..

[Trad-Man]

I have a wood density chart at my disposal.  The difference in fir (13.27 gpi) over cedar (12.03 gpi)is ~1.25 grains per inch with fir being the heavier of the two.

Hardly noticeable and certainly to close together to be able to say that value would stay consistant.  It would appear that fir may just be a good substitue for cedar.

[Trad-Man]

that's on a 23/64 shaft....

[Trad-Man]

that's on a 23/64 shaft....