how to figure out the spine you need with wood arrows?

[$bowhunter$]

im thinking about trying to get some wood arrows and am wondering how to figure the spine i will need.id like to know how to figure out how to come to figure it out on my own so please exsplain the process to me.
thanks,
steven

[Bjorn]

Bow weight, add 5 for recurve, 5 for FF type string, 5 for each in over 28, -5 for each in under 28, 5 for each 25 gn over 125, -5 for ea 25 under, that's about it-go have some fun. The newer bows that are 3/8 past center need more and self bows with no shelf need a lot less.

[$bowhunter$]

my bow is 3/8" past center how much more would i need to add?

[Bjorn]

Add another 10; this gets you close, depending on actual draw length, so order a test pack of a couple of different spine shafts to check and make sure.

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Bjorn:
Bow weight, add 5 for recurve, 5 for FF type string, 5 for each in over 28, -5 for each in under 28, 5 for each 25 gn over 125, -5 for ea 25 under, that's about it-go have some fun. The newer bows that are 3/8 past center need more and self bows with no shelf need a lot less.

Now that just makes sence, but according to Stu's calculator I'm supposed to be shooting a 76# arrow, but right now my 57# RER longbow is spitting out a 29" 60# spined cedar perfectly.  Tomorrow I will find out what a 29" 67# spined douglas fir arrow flies like and report back my findings.

[Bjorn]

I must have had a senior moment; 3/16 past center not 3/8!
3/16 past center add 10.

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by Bjorn:
I must have had a senior moment; 3/16 past center not 3/8!
3/16 past center add 10.

I was thinking you meant that, just was a typo.  It is basically 1/2 of 11/32", and after finished dipping 3/16" is 1/2 of the arrow diameter

[$bowhunter$]

well my bow is actually cut to 3/8 past center. what would i need to add? (im not much of a fraction guy)

also bjorn what kind of laquor do u apply to ur arrows and how do u apply it. i went to wally world and they had about a million different choices so i just said ill wait till im sure what to get

[Mike Vines]

I know you asked Bjorn, but I dip mine in a  waterbased wood floor finish.  My theory is that it is made to abused.  My arrows hold up great till an arrant shot ends up snapping it.

[$bowhunter$]

how much would that run at wally world? im trying to find the best deal on stuff to save money

[Mike Vines]

You can go cheap, and nickle and dime yourself all the way past spending twice as much as if you would have plunked down the amount for the proper product in the first place.  In my experiences, if you go cheap, you will regret it in the very near future.  

As for Wally World, I refuse to shop there, so I cannot answer your question on that.  

Go to Home Depot and by the product there.

[$bowhunter$]

only problem is i dont have a home depot near me. ill check lowes see if they have it. do u rub yours on or do you dip ur shafts?

[Mike Vines]

I dip them in a long dip tube.  The product I use is Parks wood floor finish.  I know it is sold at Home Depot, but not sure on where else.  Best advice I can give on making arrows is to wait 24 hours after putting any product on them, be it stain, paint or clear finish.  There is no point in rushing.  Once again, you will regret hurrying.  Arrow building is not a  50 yard sprint it is more like a full marathon.  Take your time and enjoy the whole process.

I have a dozen on the drying rack right now and it is so tempting to dip a second coat on them right now-they've been sitting since about 8 am this morning-because every time a coat goes on they look so much better.  But here I sit enjoying a tall glass of water and seeing how everyone else is enjoying the new year.

[bendbig]

Lowes will have just about any stian and finish coat you will need. I was looking thursday at Lowes near my work, I like the water base stains and the wipe-on poly, it's all held up good for me. Use just enough stain to get the color you want let dry for 24hrs. then 3 coats of poly with 0000 steel wool between coats. Oh yea and have FUN.

[vtmtnman]

You'll be fine with Minwax stains and Minwax Helmsman poly.Wipe on the coats or dip.Steel wool like bendbig said in between coats.Always wait 24hrs in between anything for drying and you'll be fine.Fletch with duco or fletch tape.

[Fletcher]

I much prefer oil base products to the water base.  Water base is quick and easy, but not as tough as the oil base polys.  Minwax Fast Dry Polyurethane is readily available and works great.  Gloss is the toughest.  Brush or wipe it on straight from the can; thin it a bit if you dip.  Any of the oil base stains will work fine.

Bowhunter, what kind of bow are you shooting?  Cut 3/8" past would not leave you much wood and I don't know of a wood risered bow being made that way these days.

[$bowhunter$]

i have a sammick red stag. i also have a pearson palimino .

[$bowhunter$]

can i use just poly and not stain them? will that effect performance?

[Mike Vines]

Originally posted by $bowhunter$:
can i use just poly and not stain them? will that effect performance?

sure if you like plain wood looking arrows, but where is the pizzazz in that?  Throw a little color in there to make it "Your Arrow".

[Bjorn]

Once fletched it gets harder to tell. I can shoot 60/65 and 75/80 out of my bows and both seem to work well.
But when bareshafting only the 75/80 works and groups with the fletched arrows. (50# ACS CX)
Much of the time I stain, let it dry, and then dip, crest, and dip 2ce more. Other times I don't bother to stain or crest, most of my arrows are for hunting and I have yet to get a complaint.
$bowhunter$, I don't think your bow is 3/8 past center that is almost a half inch.