Acetone and carbons

[olddogrib]

I've always used acetone for cleaning shafts prior to fletching.  Probably just a carry-over from shooting aluminum to shooting carbon.  I recently read somewhere on a thread here that acetone with carbon is a no-no.  Never heard that before, so if it's true someone please do enlighten me before I inadvertently splint my ulna!  :confused:

[greg fields]

I use only lacquer thinner.  I believe I have used acetone to wipe carbon down, but never soaked them in it...

[NorthernCaliforniaHunter]

I've been using it on my AD Trads to get the writing off and have had no issues whatsoever. I suppose you don't want to soak the shafts in it, but a moistened rag shouldn't penetrate the fibers. I'd say go for it.

[JRY309]

I use denatured alcohol to wipe down the shaft and I always use arrow wraps on my carbons.It makes them so much easier to redo later without having to scrape off old or damaged feathers.And I never have a problem with feathers not staying on.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I use it and any other solvent I can find around. Carbon is tough as nails and you can put jut about anything on it. "Goof Off" sticker remover works great also.

[lpcjon2]

Alcohol and some brass wool

[FerretWYO]

I have neer had a problem with it. I use denatured alchol as well.

[pumatrax]

Just as an experiment ;I put some cut of pieces of carbon arrows (black finish) in acetone over night to see what would happen...no visible damage..the only thing I have noticed is that some carbons with a camo finish don't fair as well...acetone appears to soften or remove the camo finish..just my experience. I use denatured alcohol to wipe both aluminum and carbon down for re-fletching. Ten to One ; I'd rather re-fletch aluminum.

[DannyBows]

I use it to wipe labels off carbons with no problems. As stated, don't soak them in it.

[Pepper]

I wipe with acetone, then air dry (doesn't take long), then a quick wipe with paper towel and fletch.
I don't soak my shafts in anything.

[Reaper TN]

Same here, a rag wipedown with acetone before wraps or fletching works best.

[Tree Rat]

At one time Carbon Express stated use MEK not acetone to prep theier shafts. Haven't looked in a while to see if they still say that.

Just looked again. From CX website.

 

How do I prepare Carbon Express carbon shafts for fletching?


1) Using a clean white paper towel, wipe the shaft where the fletching will be applied with denatured alcohol. Continue to lightly wipe

2) Wipe the base of the vanes with denatured alcohol also. Most vane producers use a mold-release agent in the manufacturing process that must be removed for solid adhesion between the shaft and vane.

3) Do not touch the portion of the shaft to be fletched, or the base of the vane, or allow them to come into contact with any surface once they have been cleaned.
 

What do I do if I want to re-fletch Carbon Express carbon shafts?

(WARNING: Never soak carbon shafts in any harsh chemical), including acetone. MEK can be used on carbon shafts without damage to the shaft.

1) Use a dull knife to remove old fletching and glue. Be very careful to only remove fletching and glue - do not remove any carbon fibers.

2) Repeat steps 1-3 detailed under Preparing Carbon Shafts for Fletching.
 

[Zbone]

Haven't had any problems with acetone and carbons either although I've only worked with Carbonwoods.


NorthernCaliforniaHunter - "been using it on my AD Trads to get the writing off"


Dang, didn't know that and thanx for the info. I know acetone won't take the labeling off Carbonwoods, and have been wondering and debating what next carbon shafts to go with since Carbonwoods have been discontinued, or what other types carbon shafts acetone will remove writing and labeling if DannyBows or others would be kind enough will enlighten me.

Thanx much!

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I've used paint thinner many times to remove the screen printed labels before and to clean old fletching glue off with no ill effects at all. Like others have said, I don't soak them in it, but a good wipe with a wet rag then buff with a dry rag, apply arrow wrap, and fletch. Sure makes those arrow wraps fit like a second skin, but it's a real bisch to get em back off!   :(

[Jim Wright]

Not all carbons are the same. I shoot Beman MFX shafting and as stated on the enclosed literature, their "technical help" if you check with them insist that 91% isopropyl alcohol be used and NOT,NOT,NOT acetone as they emphasized. I had contacted them after fletching that a friend had glued on after prepping with acetone  started coming off at release, during flight and on impact. Re-fletching using the alcohol to prep has proven succesful, it is still on the shafts after a while now. I'm thinking meybe they were right.

[ALwoodsman]

I believe Bohning also says NOT to use acetone for cleaning the shaft before fletching.  I use denatured alcohol also.

[LC]

I've used it in the past with no bad results. I figure if a man SOAKED it in acetone you might have bad results. With that said I spray window cleaner and use a NON oily paper towel to wipe off!

[Plumber]

dont get near your nocks.they can melt

[pernluc]

Been using aceton in the shop for years with no problems at all.

[R.W.]

If you are concerned about acetone-MEK-toluene etc damaging your shafts, take the off cut ends, and soak those pieces in the solvent you have concerns with.

There will probably be no damage to the shaft pieces unless the soaking period is quite long.

As most are only wiping down their shafts to remove dirt/oils/etc, I can't see any of these solvents dong any appreciable damage to an arrow.

I have used acetone, MEK, toluene, naptha etc to wipe down shafts, and other than removing the factory markings, I have seen NO evidence of any damage being done to the shafts, or any weakening of fletching cement (Bohning Platinum, or Bohning fletch tape)

As long as I don't stretch the fletch tape while applying it, I have no problem with my fletches coming loose, or falling off.