Glueing points on woods,?

[Shawn Rackley]

i normaly use superglue for this but want to find an alternative. will fletchtite work or duco? cause i allready have those.  

[Hermon]

I always have used hot melt glue.   I guess duco would work...

[Bjorn]

No. Hot melt like Ferltite works great.

[Ed Q]

I've used Duco, but the points still come out in the foam target after awhile.  I'll be trying the hot melt glue next.

[Mike Vines]

I used to use hot melt, but the last 2 dozen I have made, I used duco to see what happens to them.  I have shot the heck out of them at backstops, 3D mackenzie targets, and even stuck one in a 2x4.  I have done my best to pull one off, and just am not able to do it.  I did learn however, that all I need to do to remove one is heat it with my plumbing torch, and it comes right off.  I have found a new use for duco, and no more mess from hot melt.

[Terry Lightle]

Hot melt for me for the last 35 or 40 years

[Mudd]

Hot Melt!! You can do it Shawn, I mean I can even put on a point using hot melt and guess what?... they stay on most of the time...lol

God bless,Mudd

[Stumpkiller]

I have only used Fer-L-tite hot melt since . . . forever.  I wipe out new points with alcohol or acetone to clear the machining/preserving oil and have had no complaints.  

Occasionally I pop a rock or frozen stump and the head comes off.

[Fletcher]

Hot melt or epoxy  are the standards for gluing on points.  As mentioned above, make sure you clean the inside of the point very well before gluing; not much will stick to oil.  Bohning Ferr-l-tite works pretty good, altho I have been using the big Kimsha Stick hot melt for a few years and am very happy with it.

[Larry m]

Stumpkiller and Fletcher have the right idea. It's the residual oil that creates the problem with hot melt. I put a little around the tip of the shaft and then heat the field point being sure the inside is somewhat burned out. Then I slide the point on the shaft and push twist and hold it tight. Let it cool down and trim any excess. Works for me.

[Shawn Rackley]

well the problem is i dont have any lol. im in the middle of a move half my stuff is still in Mo. and im in Ar so all i have with me is duco, barge, and fletchtite . i made up some arrows and im ready to shoot em.  ohhhh and it gets better i brought my fer-l-tite. but guess what, forgot my alcohol burner up there. i know my lucky day.

[Mudd]

Use the kitchen stoves burner, assuming it's a gas stove. A bick lighter will work also.

[wooddamon1]

I've always used Bohning hot melt on woodies.Always had points come off in the target on cold days.Maybe because I never cleaned out the ferrules first?Or was it just the outside temp?

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I have use regular hot melt glue like you buy in the craft section of most retail stores like Wally world and it also works fine for me. I have only pulled off points that I got stingy with the glue, mainly cause I was trying to be neat about it and not use too much. Now I use plenty until it runs out the edges of the point, and I give it one last heating around the point until it kinda bubbles just a bit, then wipe the excess off with a rag while it's still hot. Then I submerge the point in a cup of water to cool it quickly. The points stay put very well following this method, works for me anyway.

[Stumpkiller]

I use a paint stripper (B&D) hot air gun held in a vice.  I melt the glue and roll it on the shaft, drop the tip on, heat the tip, press it down hard onto the shaft and then push the shaft hard against the edge of the workbench until it has cooled a bit.  They have a tendency to rise from trapped air otherwise.

I then spine test them by rolling along my leg while watching the tip for wobbles (points of any kind) and set them tip down on the bench while I move along to the next arrow.

[mudfish]

I wrap a small piece of 100 grit sandpaper around the taper of a junk shaft, score up the inside of the point, clean it out with a Q-tip dipped in acetone, heat it up and put it on with hot melt, spin it so I know it's on straight, and it's on pretty much for good.  but put the acetone away before you break out the torch.

[Zradix]

I have started using industrial grade hot glue sticks. I had a little trouble with tips coming off in cold weather ( 20˚ or less ) when I used Ferrel tite.

I just use a metal Hoppe's cap with some Methanol for my burner.

I also have a coffee mug filled with water filled just as deep as the point is long so I can put the tip in for a quicker cooling once the tip is mounted.

The glue sticks take less heat to melt then ferrule lite which keeps them soft too long after mounting for my taste. The water mug makes it all come together.

[Pepper]

I've always used hotmelt for points, don't have any issues, haven't tried the duco.

[lpcjon2]

Originally posted by Shawn Rackley:
well the problem is i dont have any lol. im in the middle of a move half my stuff is still in Mo. and im in Ar so all i have with me is duco, barge, and fletchtite . i made up some arrows and im ready to shoot em.  ohhhh and it gets better i brought my fer-l-tite. but guess what, forgot my alcohol burner up there. i know my lucky day.

Go to the gun shop and get a bore brush for a 22 cal and brush out the inside of the head, then pour some fingernail remover(any drug store for about $2) and then wipe it out. Use the burner on the stove to melt the fer-l-tite. U don't need a flame just the radiant heat will soften it up.

[cedar]

I use the milky white hot-melt sticks from a hardware or craft store.  The most important step is to prepare the point before glueing.  I score the inside with sandpaper or a brass gun barrel cleaning brush and then use a Q-tip with denatured alcohol to clean out the oil resideue.  Use torch to heat, install point, and dip in water immediately to cool.  Then use my finger nail to scrape off excess glue.  Can't remember a point ever coming off.