Bare shaft tuning

[thor0812]

I am shooting a pse longbow 50@28" 68" long. I am drawing 28.5"-29". I am shooting Beman ics 500 hunters full length with alloy inserts and 3 4inch rh feathers. I started off with 100 grain tips and when I shot a bare shaft with 100 I completely missed the whole target left at 20 yards. Shot 3 times to make sure it wasn't me and got the same result. Went up yo 125 grains, shot a good 3 shot group and hit pretty close to the group with the bare shaft with the 125. Does this mean I'm good on spine or should I try to find some 150's to see what happens? Also, would 125 be a good starting point for broad heads? Don't mind trying out field tips but broad heads get expensive real quick. Thanks in advance.

[drewsbow]

I like to mess with things so I would try more weight , ya never know

[Bjorn]

Broadheads make the total package longer and will take a bit less weight in my experience. So, if you use a 150 gn field point a 125 grain BH will do well.

[statedriller]

PM me your address and I'll send you some 145g field points to try...

[thor0812]

Thanks alot Statedriller

[boznarras]

You might look at the field point test kit that 3 rivers sells for $5.50. It has two each of six different weights from 100 to 250 grains. Pretty handy to have around for this sort of thing...

[thor0812]

Thanks, will check into that. Should I just keep going up until I start getting rh misses then back down from there? I have read that when shooting off the shelf paper tuning is useless so what else should I do?

sure you can do that...you might be better off with a bit more head wieght if they fly straight bare shafted..

[thor0812]

Should they not fly straight bare? I was under the impression that when bare shafting the idea was to get the bare shaft to hit where the fletched shafts do.

they will with the proper wieght on the point....
once you have the bare shaft hitting on.
 then you need to use that wieght on your fletched shafts.

[thor0812]

Ok thats what I thought. I am new to traditional and cant believe how much the mechanical aspects of compounds hide. I never "tuned" anything with my compound and hit great. This is a TOTALLY different world. It is much harder than compounds but is much more rewarding to me.

its not really hard once you understand the way an arrow reacts when shot...youll get it.

[thor0812]

Hope so. 3d season is coming up here and would like to give it a go

[ch1ch2]

Start with Stu Miller's calculator

[Matt Green]

Good info from others- only thing i'd add is, some feel it is ideal to have bare shafts showing slightly weak. Reasons: a) more forgiving and b) once fletched the shafts will react slightly stiffer than w/o feathers. Enjoy - the tuning and tinkering can be lots of fun
mg

[trad_bowhunter1965]

I shoot a Pronghorn 62'52@28 my arrows are Axis 500 cut at 29" with a 75gr brass insert with 165gr point with 3 5" shield cut feather,I shoot my bare shaft out to 30 yards and it groups with my Fletch arrows.

[hvyhitter]

I always go back to this:  http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm